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Tank's Meter Match ???

George Zeck

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Hi All:

I am trying to resolve the last thing I have not touched in the car since obtaining in ~ 2001. A working fuel gauge. I was never able to get the right sender / fuel gauge in sync with each other. I've seen the frequent list of gauges floating around here and it was just beyond me. Sorry, electrical is my weakest skill.

I bought a Tank's Meter Match (aka MM) and there claim to fame is to get any send working with any gauge. It's ~ $85 and I thought I'd take a gamble. I have a great ground from the take + MM. From the MM Instrux, it can hold 5 different wires.

1) Keyed Power
2) Ground
3) To Fuel Gauge
4) To Sender (on my car - it's the green with a black stripe wire)
5) Alarm (hahaha)

Has anyone had success / failure with this?

I have 1-4 hooked up and of course am confused as our gauges have two wires to it: sender wire (green with black stripe) and a solid green (???). My gauge, FG2530/70, has 3 connections. When looking at the back of it - RH side has two very close together connections and the green / Blk wire was connected to # 2 spot. The solid green is connected to the LH side. Nothing ever worked reliably. To me again, it appears most other cars have a single wire to their respective fuel gauge and we have two. Again, electrical is not at all a strong point. Prior to the MM, the unit did register what I believe to be accurate from full to half way then zeroed (empty) out the rest of the way.

With the Tank's - The car's Green / Blk connected to Tanks # 4 spot. And no matter where I put the Tank's # 3 wire to the gauge - no signal. In all fairness - I did rough it in to see if I got a signal and I did receive a slight signal (not much gas was in the tank so I believe to be reasonably accurate). I put the wires more cleanly and I got no signal after that. I still have power and I am afraid I cooked the Tank's board based on 'actions' (on in-actions), I just don't know when I connected the power to anything other than spot # 1. Nothing hollered problem along the way (pop, smoke, etc).

Does anyone have any experience with this and the two connection setup. I'll try calling, but everything is 'installation specific' so I thought I'd try here first.

Thanks.

George+1964 AH Sprite MK2
 

Bayless

Yoda
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Not familiar with your device. But the green wire to the gauge is the hot wire (keyed 12 v with ignition on). The green/black wire goes from the gauge to the sender. On the 64 Sprite, the gauge works backwards from more modern ones (my '67 is still the same as yours). The sender givers high resistance at full and low resistance at empty. From your description above, and if you are working at the gauge, connect the green/black to #4 and a jumper from #3 to where the green/black was connected at the gauge. Better to cut the green/black at a convenient place and install the MM at the cut. #3 must still go to the gauge and #4 to the sender. You still have to supply keyed 12 v to #1 and a good ground to #2.
 
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George Zeck

George Zeck

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Thanks. By the sounds of, regrettably - since I put the solid green to Tanks # 3 - I cooked it. I'll try this and hope ........

I appreciate your comments.
 
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George Zeck

George Zeck

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After messing around for a few additional hours (testing power / ground / etc) -- I was unable to get two of these to work. I initially thought I fried the first unit (above actions) - tried a second one. No luck. I was able to get both to power up (LED Light) but completely unable to adjust the signal from the sender to the gauge. I now how two mini-paper weights.

Thanks, Bayless, for the advise, sure it was on and this thing is just bogus.
 

RickF

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Hi All:

I am trying to resolve the last thing I have not touched in the car since obtaining in ~ 2001. A working fuel gauge. I was never able to get the right sender / fuel gauge in sync with each other. I've seen the frequent list of gauges floating around here and it was just beyond me. Sorry, electrical is my weakest skill.

I bought a Tank's Meter Match (aka MM) and there claim to fame is to get any send working with any gauge. It's ~ $85 and I thought I'd take a gamble. I have a great ground from the take + MM. From the MM Instrux, it can hold 5 different wires.

1) Keyed Power
2) Ground
3) To Fuel Gauge
4) To Sender (on my car - it's the green with a black stripe wire)
5) Alarm (hahaha)

Has anyone had success / failure with this?

I have 1-4 hooked up and of course am confused as our gauges have two wires to it: sender wire (green with black stripe) and a solid green (???). My gauge, FG2530/70, has 3 connections. When looking at the back of it - RH side has two very close together connections and the green / Blk wire was connected to # 2 spot. The solid green is connected to the LH side. Nothing ever worked reliably. To me again, it appears most other cars have a single wire to their respective fuel gauge and we have two. Again, electrical is not at all a strong point. Prior to the MM, the unit did register what I believe to be accurate from full to half way then zeroed (empty) out the rest of the way.

With the Tank's - The car's Green / Blk connected to Tanks # 4 spot. And no matter where I put the Tank's # 3 wire to the gauge - no signal. In all fairness - I did rough it in to see if I got a signal and I did receive a slight signal (not much gas was in the tank so I believe to be reasonably accurate). I put the wires more cleanly and I got no signal after that. I still have power and I am afraid I cooked the Tank's board based on 'actions' (on in-actions), I just don't know when I connected the power to anything other than spot # 1. Nothing hollered problem along the way (pop, smoke, etc).

Does anyone have any experience with this and the two connection setup. I'll try calling, but everything is 'installation specific' so I thought I'd try here first.

Thanks.

George+1964 AH Sprite MK2
Hi George,

Your gauge should have three connections on it. The first terminal is labeled "B" for battery and the solid green wire should be connected here. The second terminal should be labeled "S" and the wire from the sending unit (or No. 3 on the Meter Match device) should be connected here. The third wire should be connected to ground.

Is your car positive or negative ground? The Meter Match device website does not mention vehicle ground, but the device may very well not work on a positive ground vehicle.

Rick
 

Pythias

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After going thru several sending units, .. (the float always seemed to spring a leak after very little time) .. having my tank changed so that the bung in the tank would match the sending unit that matched the gauge (some register full and ZERO resistance and others are the opposite!?) I went with thttps://bugeyeguyparts.com/products/programmable-fuel-gaugehe programmable gauge from BUGEYEGUY. .. my sending unit wasn't leaking (yet) but I went ahead and bought one of those from him also...


Sure, it's a couple of hundred dollars for the pair, but then.. DONE. .. and since the unit is programmable you can get it set so that you have a reserve .. (of your own choosing.. it might take a little time, or if the tank is out anyway, .. )
 

Jim_Gruber

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I added the Programmable Fuel Gauge. It's made by Speedhut BTW. Works fine and you can do the gauge programming in reverse order. When you know you are getting low on fuel, for me around town with my 1275 ~ 100 miles set it as empty setting, after fill up program gauge to full. 25 mpg around town, 35 mpg steady state cruising. Once you go through a cycle or 2 you can figure out how close to Empty you really are and know how far to push it.
 
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George Zeck

George Zeck

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Once again, a fail unfortunately. I had high hopes that the Tank's Meter Match would work as described. Can't even return as I have had juice through them. :<(
 

Jim_Gruber

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Speedhut Programmable Gauge. Relieve your frustration. Buy one.
 

JPSmit

Moderator
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Can't really add anything except that I am curious and frustrated on your behalf that this isn't working. Has the manufacturer been of any use?
 
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George Zeck

George Zeck

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Told me to open the second one as the first one was bad despite the LED lighting up. Now power has gone through it, not returnable.
 

JPSmit

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Told me to open the second one as the first one was bad despite the LED lighting up. Now power has gone through it, not returnable.
Ooo I might be having a conversation with them about that.
 
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