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SWA formerly RB Midget needs rear fender flaring
- Thread starter RickB
- Start date
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OP
RickB
Yoda
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I had some success today, but am not finished.
The bat trick has some merit but the lip on my rear fenders is very strong and hard to bend up out of the way.
I tried hammering it, I tried using a large C clamp with a cheater. I am not sure how to get that lip bent up.
The tires are on the car and I didn't have to replace any studs.
They still contact the fender just a little when I am in the car and driving around the block so I have more work to do.
I found the rear spring spacers and put them back on one side to see the difference. That helped but was not the solution for everything.
Here's how the car looks now, I really like these wheels.
The bat trick has some merit but the lip on my rear fenders is very strong and hard to bend up out of the way.
I tried hammering it, I tried using a large C clamp with a cheater. I am not sure how to get that lip bent up.
The tires are on the car and I didn't have to replace any studs.
They still contact the fender just a little when I am in the car and driving around the block so I have more work to do.
I found the rear spring spacers and put them back on one side to see the difference. That helped but was not the solution for everything.
Here's how the car looks now, I really like these wheels.
Attachments
Rick you want to spread the pressure from the jack or you will end up kinking something. Don't spose you have an old leaf spring around? Thats what I would use against the fender then a chunk of 2x6 or 2x8 against the inner wheel well. Those are nice looking wheels but personally I hate any offset for what it does to handling.
Kurt.
Kurt.
OP
RickB
Yoda
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Billm said:
Hard to believe those things would have enough advantage to bend the lip on my fender. Double layer of steel versus whatever cars have been made of over the past 20 years I guess.
I'll spread the pressure of my jack, I think I just need a little more room.
Also I have to put the spacers back in on the other side front of leaf springs, that helps clearance too.
About handling, the drive I had with only the fronts fitted (old wheels and tires on back) was very nice. I've yet to see what having the rears on does. What negative effects should I watch for?
OP
RickB
Yoda
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Ah who's counting???
My axel was never ON center, the drivers side has always been in farther than the passenger side. Now it's all just a bit wider.
The tires still were inside the line of the fenders, it was just that lip that was rubbing. But now it is good.
Is there anything bad about having everything a little wider all the way around?
The car feels a lot better just driving around the neighborhood.
I'm going to get SWMBO in the passenger side and go out for a little drive and make sure everything works, no sense going to all this trouble if I can't drive with my lovely assistant over on the right side. Next weekend is the spring Tulip Rallye so it must be good to go or else...
My axel was never ON center, the drivers side has always been in farther than the passenger side. Now it's all just a bit wider.
The tires still were inside the line of the fenders, it was just that lip that was rubbing. But now it is good.
Is there anything bad about having everything a little wider all the way around?
The car feels a lot better just driving around the neighborhood.
I'm going to get SWMBO in the passenger side and go out for a little drive and make sure everything works, no sense going to all this trouble if I can't drive with my lovely assistant over on the right side. Next weekend is the spring Tulip Rallye so it must be good to go or else...
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
If it seems tailhappy, check your front end toe-in / alignment.
The added wheel offset can change that (especially if it is already "off").
Since these cars have square, parallel rocker panels, you can get things decent by using a long straight board against the tire and adjust so that both wheels are straight ahead (I like 0 toe-in but I think 1/16" toe-in is recommended).
Be sure leaf spring U-bolts are tight too.
The added wheel offset can change that (especially if it is already "off").
Since these cars have square, parallel rocker panels, you can get things decent by using a long straight board against the tire and adjust so that both wheels are straight ahead (I like 0 toe-in but I think 1/16" toe-in is recommended).
Be sure leaf spring U-bolts are tight too.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
You know... grafting some thin fiberglass flares to the front would really tie it all together and help with the wheel protruding too far at the front.