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TR6 Suggestions: cylinder head won't release from block

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sammyb

Luke Skywalker
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I remember wrestling with my TR3 head to break it loose from the block, but I'm absolutely amazed that I can't free the TR6 head from the block. I've removed everything -- head bolts, alternator/belt, water pump, exhaust and inlet manifolds, air breather (which nicely blocks one of the head bolts), thermostat, and a bunch of other parts. The only thing left in the head (other than valves/springs and the three valve cover studs) is the heater valve tube. I took off the control itself, but the tube has nothing to grab to remove it.

...I attached one of the engine lift points to the head and am using my engine cherry picker and all I've been able to do is to get enough separation to get a scraper in. No pry bars are working to get good leverage. I can literally lift the car off the ground by the head.

Any ideas? I'm running out of patience and blood from knuckles.

Sam
 
Sam, have you removed the studs or just the nuts off the top of the studs?
 
Just the nuts...am I a moron and didn't look to see that the head studs need to be removed entirely???
 
If the studs are still in then perhaps an overnight soak with PBlaster would help -- but probably not help enough to solve everything.

Some have resorted to the 'rope trick' (recently discussed on the crank bolt thread). In this version rope is stuffed into 2 cylinders (perhaps 2 & 5?) approaching TDC until the engine cannot be easily turned. At that point it is turned with some force with the hope that this will lift the head. Even a small movement at this point is often enough to get it loose enough for more conventional methods.

The extreme version of the rope trick would have one bumping the starter once the pistons are fully jammed against the rope & head. I have done this on a TR3 where the main concern was whether the liners would pop loose. Not an issue for you but possibly other concerns on a 6. IOW, use at your own risk, YMMV, etc.
 
The head tends to rust to the studs. Double nut them and try to remove them or use a stud remover. Should come off with no issues then.
 
I was struggling with the same thing with a spare TR6 motor I had, there was a piece still attached holding it on or blocking it, I felt stupid when I figured it out after a lot of sweating and grunting, and still a little sheepish because I can't remember what it was now, but triple check to make sure everything is taken off and out of the way, as I re-read your post sounds like the exact same thing, it would lift a little, I though it might be binding on the studs, so took a few out, it turned out to be hitting a part I didn't think was in the way, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was.
 
As others have mentioned, the studs grow to the head and make it difficult to remove. After removing as many studs as possible by double nuts, try the rope trick. You mentioned removing the water pump, but the housing that bolts to the front of the head should be removed as well as the water pipe that connects to it. Before re-installing the studs, coat them with anti-seize compound, it will make head removal much easier next time. Yes, there will probably be a next time. Berry
 
I removed the water pipe housing. I'm guessing that the studs are the culprit. I'll try to remove them tomorrow with the double nut trick. I was aware of the age-old rope trick, but given the amount of force I'm able to exert on it with the engine hoist, I was afraid of breaking a piston/con-rod.

I'll have at it tomorrow with some PB Blaster (already a can sitting on the car from the spark plug seize that started this whole thing!) and then come back to remove the studs. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Thanks everyone for your tips. It's been a couple of years since I've done Triumph heavy mechanicals, so it's going to take me a while to get back into the groove.
 
My god, what a PITA!!! It turned out to be the two passenger-side studs closest to the firewall. I couldn't remove them, so after another few hours of prying, heating with a torch, PB Blasting, moving the engine hoist from point to point, using the sling, breaking an exhaust stud...it's finally liberated from the car.

As soon as I stop sweating, get some water and food in me, and catch my wits, it's off to the machine shop.
 
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