• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
  • When posting a classified ad, you MUST select a prefix from the drop-down next to the subject line. If you don't you will get an error and your ad will not be posted!
Tips
Tips

sufficient threading on Tenax pegs for windscreen

59triumphtr3a

Freshman Member
Offline
Recently received new Tenax pegs for my steel TR3A windshield frame. I notice that the stud part is not completely threaded. The threads do not go all the way to the backside of the hex part that butts against the frame itself. When I screw these in the frame, part of the stud extends into the glass channel. This leaves about 1 turn of thread holding the peg to the frame. (To avoid interference with the glass, I suspect a bit of the stud will have to be ground down.) Anybody have issues with so little thread holding the peg? Strip out? I'm not sure if the threads can be cut further up the stud because it looks like the diameter of the outer edges of the threads are wider than the diameter of the unthreaded shank. I couldn't tell for sure. Anybody have experience or comments with these?
Thanks,
 
Just looked at some original and repro Tenax pegs - the repro's I have show 1 mm longer threads than the originals.

The repros have a shoulder like you describe, but when turned 180 degrees, the thread spirals up to the nut part.

Perhaps use a tiny SS washer under the repro or carefully grind off the overhanging thread inside the windscreen frame. I always use an Araldite or JB Weld product for the Tenax, as the frame is chromed brass and often the threads are trashed from over tightened pegs.

Viv.
 
Take care with these. I cracked the windscreen on a TR3 I was restoring a few years ago because I hadn't noticed that the studs were longer than the originals. When I fitted new glass we put little fibre washers under them to prevent them going so far into the glass channel. If you do this then more thread will remain in contact with the frame.
 
vivdownunder said:
and often the threads are trashed from over tightened pegs.
Haven't tried it yet, but my plan is to install a peg from an aluminum frame, as a workaround for the stripped threads in my chrome frame. TRF is selling reproductions of the 553837 pegs and they look very nice.
 
Back
Top