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Still won't start! ARGH! Do you think....

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Blackjokr

Jedi Warrior
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79 Midget still won't start and she ran great, Seems liek all is firing ok and gas is alright through the pump. Someone mentioned to me today at work into checking the lower radiator hose ot make sure it was not clogged. Althoguht it sounds liek something I should do anyway, I am concerned:

1. How to clear it without leaking Antifreeze all over the place!

2. What type of gloves should I wear in handling this since the antifreeze is new inside.

3. Does this actually sound like this could be the problem?

The battery is charged and it kicks in but just can't get that final ignite I guess. Liek I said before, THRUST in can (Ether) burns and she runs for a whole 1-4 seconds...
where is the NJ group ?? I will provide beer, food and hand out free joy rides if we cna get this working! lol


BJ
 
BJ...I can tell you that not starting has nothing to do with lower radiator hose...if it's starts with a shot of ether then it's definitley a fuel getting to the carbs related issue..(same as I just had with the Sprite..from there can be lots of things and just have to start list of checkoffs....anybody have a a link or other post to help him with...

1) take hose off tank to fuel pump..make sure it's flowing...
2) blow hoses clear..
3) see if fuel is coming into carbs from fuel pump.

You basically have to figure out why the fuel is not getting there...GOOD LUCK
 
Guess I will be tearing it down from the tank back to the front! Hmm..I wondeir fi hitting the carb with some carb cleaner might not help....Thanks !
 
Where in NJ...BJ?

But as Bibber said...make sure gas coming into carbs., ignore the radiator for now. Pull fuel line hose off of carb., stick into glass jar and turn ignition on. If fuel isn't pumping out...work your back backwards to tank.

Is there a fuel filter....is it clogged? How old are the flexible lines on the fuel line?
 
BJ...answer these questions please:

1. When your engine is on top dead center on the <u>compression</u> stroke:

a) does your distributor dog point in the correct direction?
b) is your timing mark on TDC?
c) does your rotor button point to the #1 spark plug wire?
d) are your spark plug wires aligned in the correct firing order?

2. If the battery is fully charged & the starter is engaging the flywheel with enough speed to turn the engine over fast enough to start:

a) are you getting <u>hot</u> spark at the spark plugs?
b) are your points opening/closing properly?
c) & you can see spark at the points?

3. Are your valves adjusted properly & opening/closing as the engine turns over? & are your push rods/lifters moving with the rocker assemblies?

4. Do you have at least 4psi (but not much over that) of gas at both fuel bowls?

5. Are your carbs set properly & operating properly?

Carb problems are easy to identify: get a can of starter fluid, spray some in the throats of both carbs - if it fires & runs for a moment on the fluid, its a gas problem!

Either fuel delivery of carb oeration/adjustment.

You said:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Liek I said before, THRUST in can (Ether) burns and she runs for a whole 1-4 seconds...[/QUOTE]

That says, to me, fuel system problem!!! (Back to my points #4 & #5 above)

When you disconnect the gas line from the carb to which it goes first, & turn the ignition key on, and allow your fuel system to pressurize, do you get a steady flow of gas out the hose?

If so, it ain't fuel flow...its carb operation/adjustment!

If no gas flow, its between the carbs & gas tank!

But, without specific answers to these questions, I don't know what else to tell you other than the problem ain't a radiator hose! Or the radiator! Or anti-freeze!
 
Fuel
Spark
Compression


Crank/no starts always start with finding out which of these three are missing. Always.

Radiator is not needed for the car to start.

Like BIBBER stated, make sure that you have fuel coming OUT of the fuel pump. If so, you have a carb or filter problem. If not, you work backwards towards the tank.
 
Tony,
Great list of items to check when there's a problem. I'll be printing this out as a keeper.

Bruce
 
Aw shucks, Bruse...Doc, Steve & several of the other guys can probably add to that list or better explain it....I'm just trying to get him to forget about anti-freeze & concentrate on gas!
 
WOW!! Some of that is Greek to me, but I understand where I need to look. Holy smoke are you guys great with cars! I am so GREEN with envy!!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Some of that is Greek to me,[/QUOTE]

It'll come...do you own a repair manual for your car?
 
ordered. not here yet! Any online stuff around?
 
Which manual did you order?
 
If it lights off with ether it's not gettin' fuel from the tank. BTW: don't do that ether thing anymore.

First check fuel flow at the carb delivery line: a container (not a styrofoam cup!) large enuff to check for about 1 pint a minute of fuel from the pump. If you get that, the problem is in the carbs: stuck/clogged needle 'n seat, clogged delivery tube, clogged jet tube.

If ya get NO fuel from the line the problem will be further back toward the tank: pump FUBAR'd, line(s) plugged or a leaky supply hose from the tank allowing the pump to suck air. What pump is on this car?

Report back.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]BTW: don't do that ether thing anymore.[/QUOTE]

You've done that enough to know the engine will run with gas - however, you may have done it enough that, should you continue to do so, the ether could start affecting (read: damaging) your engine.....it takes quite a bit to actually hurt anything but you might be getting close.

Wait for your manual to arrive, read the fuel system troubleshooting section & follow it (it'll be just like what Doc & the rest of us have been telling you)
 
Thansk guys. We had issues with this before and I think I just realized where the problem most likely is. We had the same issue a month ago at the car shop. We wound up replacing a few items because they were old and probably needed them in addition to fixing it. We replaced (all with parts from Moss):
1. The entire gas tank and fuel float, delivery, etc. that goes inside.
2. A new replacement fuel pump (mechanical).
3. The gas line has a screw drilled right through it when this silly person (ha!) drove a self-tapping scrwe in it when putting the speaker in in the back..DUH!! I wound up lifting the car, sing a pipe cutter to remove about 4 inches of gas line. Then put in a rubber fuel line with some clamps.
The final fix was for them to feed the carb a little gas.

I have a feeling it is doing the same darn thing and probably needs a new carb but I will be troubleshooting today for sure.

Any recommendations on a new carb? I have heard all kinds of news about upgrading to a better carb but am unsure what that would be. I was also trying to dress the engine up a bit so it would be nice if she looked pretty sweet without costing an arm and a leg!
 
Before I switched to a Weber or some other carb, I'd clean/rebuild that Zenith....its pretty easy....think I've also heard of people pulling 2-barrel downdrafts off S-10 pickups or some like American car & bolting them on an intake for a Weber carb.
 
Aw, man, thanks for that link...I've been looking for it myself!

That might actually make my '76 Midget enjoyable to drive!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] (not a styrofoam cup!)[/QUOTE]doc...hope you didn't learn that one first hand like I did!!
 
BIBBER said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] (not a styrofoam cup!)
Click to expand...
doc...hope you didn't learn that one first hand like I did!! [/QUOTE]

You too??!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
Jeff
 
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