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Still no workie....NEED HELP

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OK, basic troubleshooting: If you are getting a strong spark at the cap center terminal, but it's not getting to the plugs, THAT'S THE PROBLEM!!! It makes no sense to look at point gap, fuel pump, or anything like that when the problem is elsewhere and staring you in the face. For some reason, the spark isn't getting from there to the plugs, so you need simply to figure out where it is getting lost. If none of the plugs are firing, the problem is most likely something common to all of them within that path. (I suppose it's possible that all the wires are bad, but not likely.) The only thing common to all of them is the cap and rotor. I suspect you have an incorrect cap or rotor, or perhaps, as was suggested, something is just not made right. It's not unusual in the aftermarket junk we're forced to use.

Never, never, NEVER assume that a part is OK just because it's new. I did some measuring of a couple of distributor caps at one point, and found a significant difference in the height from the surface where the cap mounts on the distributor to the contacts. Very disturbing! So, this isn't just a theoretical idea. I suspect that the many stories of "bad rotors" are just rotors that aren't made to the right dimensions.
 
Sarastro said:
(I suppose it's possible that all the wires are bad, but not likely.) The only thing common to all of them is the cap and rotor.


Never, never, NEVER assume that a part is OK just because it's new.


I did some measuring of a couple of distributor caps at one point, and found a significant difference in the height from the surface where the cap mounts on the distributor to the contacts. Very disturbing!
Click to expand...


I've seen "newish" wires break down over a 4 month period without being used when they were "perfectly fine" before. Less then 10K on the set and they LOOKED great. I was really suprised to discover this. If he's got the same brand...

There was/is a "spark booster" on the market that was nothing more than a large air gap that plugged into the cap at the coil lead. Some cap/rotor combos might have this "feature" built in. I, like you; prefer my componants to touch. I don't think this sytem has enough voltage to allow any gaps other than where they are supposed to be.

I though we were working with a Unilite. I didn't realize we had points involves. You do know you're supposed to clean new points, right?

This is a long shot, but if everything checks out o.k, it might be possible that the ani -corrosive compound used for storage on the point contacts aren't allowing the coil to see full voltage. This is why you need to clean them before use. Dad always filed them. I use a solvent.

At this point it's clear it's something simple and stupid. You're close, don't give up.

I just reread and realize everything is new. Like ststed before, that doesn't mean squat especially now. You might not even have ends on the wires. Checking engine to chassis ground makes senses too.

You holding your mouth right?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]It has to be points, condenser, roter or cap or a combination of the above.

IT HAS TO BE. [/QUOTE]

Read my lips. Replace one at a time in this order. Dizzy cap, roter, condencer, points. Start vehicle after each part exchange.

I would bet on cap or roter.
 
This is a long shot, out of the blue stab at something that may have been overlooked; When I bought my Mallory Dual Point (15 years ago), I remember that I had to have the drive dog removed from another dizzy and I took the Mallory to a machinist to have him drill and install the new/old drive dog. Now, keeping in mind that the drive dog has offset ears, is it possible that the drive dog was installed 180 degrees out of phase on the distributor shaft itself? Just a thought.

JACK
 
And one more ever-so helpful suggestion: Remove the ignition resistor from the circuit by jumpering it. This will also take the bypass out of the circuit. Or, just wire direct to the poil. The point is to simplify the wiring so that you remove the possibility of poor ignition contacts, poor contact at connectors and a damaged resistor that passes voltage but is a current restriction.

PS: Do not trust your assumptions.
 
Drive dog being out won't make a difference in spark not getting to the wires. Dizzy will still fire (all the way down to the plugs) but 180 out. THIS IS NOT YOUR CURRENT PROBLEM.

You have a bad componant in the series OR low coil voltage (for whatever reason).


You need to check each componant in the system (mentioned MANY times before).



180 out only effects how it runs, not spark discharge.




Sidenote: I know my '79 has a resisted + wire to feed the coil and it requires a low ohm coil. I know you have a RB car, but I don't know wht year or if you have a resistor wire. If you have a high ohm coil being fed by an already resisted wire (might have an external one too?) you might not be able to produce enough coil voltage to overcome the resistance of the complete circut.

Tom is corrct, don't trust your assumtions !!!
 
Ed, I've just talked to Bill.
We can have a mini NODoody tomorrow at your place.
Does noon or early afternoon work ok for you?
Maybe we can get Rich too, I have some stuff to give him for his car.

RickB
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Drive dog being out won't make a difference in spark not getting to the wires. Dizzy will still fire (all the way down to the plugs) but 180 out[/QUOTE]

kellysguy,

If the distributor drive is 180 out, the spark will go to the "wrong" plug.
 
Colin8 said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Drive dog being out won't make a difference in spark not getting to the wires. Dizzy will still fire (all the way down to the plugs) but 180 out
Click to expand...

kellysguy,

If the distributor drive is 180 out, the spark will go to the "wrong" plug.

[/QUOTE]

Ed seems to be saying no spark is getting to plugs at the present time.
So, while the dizzy could be 180 out that isn't the only problem.
We will have another dizzy with us tomorrow - it shouldn't take too long to sort things out... :wink:
 
RickB said:
Ed, I've just talked to Bill.
We can have a mini NODoody tomorrow at your place.
Does noon or early afternoon work ok for you?
Maybe we can get Rich too, I have some stuff to give him for his car.

RickB
Click to expand...

That would be awesome, Rick. I finally get to meet you. I could really use the help. I'm feeling overwhelmed with things to check and do. Plus, it will save Rich a drive to Issaquah! Saturday works great for me. Wife already said I could go out and play. Thanks, guys!

:cheers:
 
lbc_newbie said:
RickB said:
Ed, I've just talked to Bill.
We can have a mini NODoody tomorrow at your place.
Does noon or early afternoon work ok for you?
Maybe we can get Rich too, I have some stuff to give him for his car.

RickB
Click to expand...

That would be awesome, Rick. I finally get to meet you. I could really use the help. I'm feeling overwhelmed with things to check and do. Plus, it will save Rich a drive to Issaquah! Saturday works great for me. Wife already said I could go out and play. Thanks, guys!

:cheers:
Click to expand...

I want this live-streamed on the Net.
 
Heh - I have a nice navy blue shirt with white lettering I was planning to wear :wink:

Does that count?
 
58Custom said:
lbc_newbie said:
RickB said:
Ed, I've just talked to Bill.
We can have a mini NODoody tomorrow at your place.
Does noon or early afternoon work ok for you?
Maybe we can get Rich too, I have some stuff to give him for his car.

RickB
Click to expand...

That would be awesome, Rick. I finally get to meet you. I could really use the help. I'm feeling overwhelmed with things to check and do. Plus, it will save Rich a drive to Issaquah! Saturday works great for me. Wife already said I could go out and play. Thanks, guys!

:cheers:
Click to expand...

I want this live-streamed on the Net.
Click to expand...

Might have to settle for some cell phone pics! I can take crappy video with my phone, maybe that will do.
 
lbc_newbie said:
RickB said:
Heh - I have a nice navy blue shirt with white lettering I was planning to wear :wink:

Does that count?
Click to expand...

We can ALL dress up and pretend we know what we're doing! :banana:
Click to expand...

:iagree: . . . I'm up for that!!! . . . :iagree:
 
Hey!! I have a new kind of computer at work and can log-on now! (we'll see how long THAT lasts).
This should be fun see you all tomorrow!
BillM
 
Colin8 said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Drive dog being out won't make a difference in spark not getting to the wires. Dizzy will still fire (all the way down to the plugs) but 180 out
Click to expand...

kellysguy,

If the distributor drive is 180 out, the spark will go to the "wrong" plug.


[/QUOTE]

Right, 180 out just like I said. It will not keep it from going from the coil to the plug (which is his problem) AND..........even if he put the dog on 180 out from the other dizzy, that was negated when the dizzy was set in w/ TDC @ #1 cylinder and rotor at #1 wire as now it's back where it's supposed to be.

Location of #1 cylinder on the cap is unimportant as long as the dizzy is set to it at TCD. You can have it in any one of the four postions as long as the wires are moved accordingly. With the 180 dog, you only have two positions unless you move the drive. Spark will still reach the plug, even if it's the wrong one. He's not getting voltage to the plugs.

The only vehicle that this maters on is the old VW's w/ the oil cooler in the doghouse as they retarded timing to #3 to keep it from burning valves. #3 had a specific point lobe that needed to (should) be kept w/ that cyl. (odd fire Buick V6 too if I remeber correctly as one cyl was offset, they used a V8 cap but w/ only 6 wires.)

He already stated the dizzy was set right. No need to pull it out and move the dog and reset the wires as you're back to where you started....just on the other side of the cap.

Voltage is stopping at the cap to the rotor. That's where he needs to start looking.
 
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