TR2/3/3A Sticker idea; good or bad?

[TexasKnucklehead]

So I have my freshly painted TR3, and noticed that when the hood opens, or closes, it may rub on one side or the other depending on how it happens to flex around whilst moving. The rub occurs between the edge of the hood, and the fender beading at either end, either side. Once the hood is down (or up) and latched, there is a small gap. Anyway, I noticed, because I had a small chip on the right side edge of the hood, and thought it was only going to get worse. I suppose I could loosen the 28 bolts that hold each fender in place, shim out the apron to fender, and pull the fenders out a little, then re-adjust the door gaps... but instead I employed a sticker.

I went to one of those places that "wrap" cars in advertisements. They use a clear tape; 3M "Scotchcal marking film" over their artwork to protect it. It's not cheap but I got some, cut the shape and installed it across the edge and bottom of the hood. This way when the hood rubs against the beading, it doesn't rub against the paint, because it rubs against the sticker. It is so clear, I can't see it in person, let alone the picture. I can't even feel the difference betwen it and clear-coat.

Does this sound like a good idea, or bad? My gaps look good, but I hated to think about all those paint chips.

 

[toysrrus]

Hi There Tex,

Man; It not only sounds like a good idea. It surely appears to be a good idea. Removing all the bolts & then re-fitting the wings is`nt a whole heck of alot of fun.

What color is your TR; Primrose, White or Olde English White?

Happy Motoring,

Russ

 

[HerronScott]

Sounds like a good idea to me. The new Thunderbird's use something similar to protect the paint where the hardtop sits on the rear deck.

Scott

 

[mgedit]

Like the idea too. Cheers, Mike

 

[PeterK]

That stuff was developed to protect the edges of helicopter blades. Now called the clear bra, it comes computer cut to protect the front-end of nearly any vehicle. We have it on all of our modern cars. Good idea and the right stuff for the job.

 

[PatGalvin]

Jerry, only concern is that most of that material is made for new car finishes. It will be fine until you decide to remove it. You may have paint adhesion problems when you remove the film. If it's a permanent fix, then you are golden!

 

[DornTRoriginal]

I think it sounds like a pretty "nifty" idea! I am wondering why this happened? Was the original adjustment not done correctly or is it that the hinges are not that precise in their motion? I am asking so I can avoid this when I paint and assemble my car. BTW I am told the "wrap" material is supposed to be removed without damaging the original paint surface.....

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Russ, It's "Primrose Yellow" or as PPG calls it now "Orchid Yellow".

I have no intention of taking the tape off. I think the gaps look fine, aside from rebending the hood or installing spacers between the fender and apron, I don't see a way to 'fix' it. It seems to me, the hinges allow too much motion. The hood is rather flimsy and can bend around a little when only held by the two hinge pins -not a lot, but definately enough for the beads to hit the hood. If you are worried about yours doing the same thing, be sure to install the beading on both sides, and completly tighten all the apron/fender/door bolts and check/adjust the gaps, before you get the car painted.

I plan to leave the tape on and always allowing it to keep the hood edges from chipping. If the tape tears, or comes off, it really doesn't matter as it can only be seen when the hood is up -and even then, I can't see it.

 

[CJD]

I think Tush brought up this issue a while back. My bonnet gaps are much larger on the sides, like 3/8". I was thinking about closing them up, but after playing with it (before painting) I realized it would be a problem to have them too tight. I am sure it'll look better tight, like you are doing, though.

If you ever need more clearance, the bonnet can be "pinched" inward on the sides to get more room. I can't think of any way to stretch the front apron, which determines the opening size.

 

[trglory]

I'm having the same problem with my car (also Primrose) as the paint is chipping in the four corners of the bonnet. I have learned that after snapping the stay rod into the rubber buffer, I can lower the right rear corner into the fender bead and then push the left rear corner inwards as I am dropping the front. By being careful, I can minimize the damage but it still takes a beating over time.

I wonder if the problem can be solved by using the rubber wedge shaped buffers that Triumph used on the TR6s. Anybody have experience with these?

Joe

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

I kinda wish I had that problem My gaps will still be huge with no chance of rubbing....

Cheers
Tush

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Tush,

When I got my car the hood appeared as if it had been through a hurricane -as it had. Where I have the black line drawn was a upward crease at about 30 degrees. Both the "natural folds" in the hood for the raised section were severely bent. I had no apron or cross brace. When I started shaping the hood, I laid it on the floor, stood on it and bent it closer to position. I ended up with 2 aprons (a small mouth and a large) but neither apron matched the front of the hood. I had to bend one of the cross braces and the hood to match, as well as the top if the apron. I learned to use a hammer and dolly, but I think it was worth the effort. The "fit" to the cowl was adjusted with some lumber cut to the shape (curve) of the cowl, and then hammered/clamped until the support member at the top of the hood matched better.

In all honesty, I thought I had huge gaps on the sides of the hood -until I installed the beads after it was all painted.