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Steering Wheel and Hub Removal

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
Offline
Before I start in on the job of replacing my wheel with the nice little Grant wheel/hub that BoxORocks just sent me, I have been looking around for advice on the best procedure.

What's the collective opinion in this forum? BFH or Knee Pressure and Wiggle or Moss tool or Chainsaw? (OK, so the last one is a joke.)
 
I used a BFH, Knees and a come-along, there are many methods. For me, the come-along worked, but it was a last resort.
Whichever you choose, please DO NOT remove the nut all the way.
Next time I do it, I'll try it this way.
 
BFH.....NOOOOOO!!...there's a good chance you'll damage the shaft that way!

Knee Pressure and Wiggle...works for me....if it doesn't, only then think about a puller....but, if its hard, squirt some PB Blaster down the splines first & try knee pressure again.
 
Well, even though John uses them, think: collapsible steering column....hit it with a BFH & what might happen? Oh, I've seen the results in cars in my MG Graveyard.
 
good point Tony. I hadn't thought about that...
 
tony barnhill said:
Well, even though John uses them, think: collapsible steering column....hit it with a BFH & what might happen? Oh, I've seen the results in cars in my MG Graveyard.

Yes, that method seems to have generated controversy over in the MG Experience forum.

I've already squirted a bit of PB Blaster down there, and made a half hearted attempt at pulling it by hand while pushing with knees.
 
Don't know what they're saying over there but, were it me, I'd contact Gerry Masterman at GEM Enterprises & ask him what type damage could be done to the bushings in the column with the BFH even if you didn't ruin the shear pin in the collapsible section.
 
tony barnhill said:
Don't know what they're saying over there but, were it me, I'd contact Gerry Masterman at GEM Enterprises & ask him what type damage could be done to the bushings in the column with the BFH even if you didn't ruin the shear pin in the collapsible section.

I was reading a thread in which Gerry was expressing his candid opinion about the BFH method ... and it makes sense to me. Perhaps the BFH approach works most of the time, but if it doesn't the damage is nasty?
 
The damage can be severe to the column. If it is the energy absorbing type, it can collapse it at worst. At best you may mess up the threads at the top of the column. Either problem will probably prompt a call to Gerry for some repairs or replacements.

I have had good luck with the knees, and lots of wiggling. It is a pain, but it feels good when the wheel pops off.
 
Smacking the steering column with a big hammer is the quick way to get a steering wheel off. But it is not the proper way. On a solid column you may cause damage to a number of fasteners or threads. On a collapsible column you will damage the mechanism designed to protect you in a collision.

A repair shop is always looking for ways to cut time, which in turn cuts cost and keeps customers coming back. This is one reason I try to avoid them. A home garage is not a repair shop. there is no reason to not take your time and use a puller if necessary.
 
Julian,knees and a soft hammer with the nut at the top of the threads.DO NOT POUND. One or two whacks on a wood block on the nut. If this fails, a small 3 arm puller with the puller point on the center of the shaft.Crank to medium pressure,now use a propane torch and heat around the inside of the hub where it is closest to the shaft, but NOT the shaft itself.Go round and round,crank a bit more,go round again,not stopping untill..POP..it comes loose. If you keep moving all the time you will not burn anything. To much mass to get hot enough to melt or even burn paint. I have even used oxy and moved REAL fast,so far it has always worked for me.
 
BOXoROCKS said:
Julian,knees and a soft hammer with the nut at the top of the threads.DO NOT POUND. One or two whacks on a wood block on the nut. If this fails, a small 3 arm puller with the puller point on the center of the shaft.Crank to medium pressure,now use a propane torch and heat around the inside of the hub where it is closest to the shaft, but NOT the shaft itself.Go round and round,crank a bit more,go round again,not stopping untill..POP..it comes loose. If you keep moving all the time you will not burn anything. To much mass to get hot enough to melt or even burn paint. I have even used oxy and moved REAL fast,so far it has always worked for me.

OK! Just one more question. All I need to undo is the single nut on the column. Nothing else? That's all that holds the wheel and boss on?
 
Yep - the one big nut in the center.
 
Baz said:
Julian, loosen it, don't remove it. Please don't. It hurts.

I'll be careful: does removing it open a wormhole in the space-time continuum?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Julian, loosen it, don't remove it. Please don't. It hurts.


I'll be careful: does removing it open a wormhole in the space-time continuum?[/QUOTE]

No, it'll just open a hole in your chest or the back of your head when it pops off & the wheel slams into you or yout head slams into something else!
 
Close, if it breaks loose when you're applying force toward you, that nut becomes the one thing that prevents you seeing stars.
 
tony barnhill said:
Yep - the one big nut in the center.

Well, I went out with my home made puller (a piece of steel with two holes in it), set up for a gargantuan epic of a job, and the wheel and hub just popped off when I pulled it firmly with both hands!

So that was an easy job /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif

Now I need to figure out how to make the horn work with the BoxORocks hub.
 
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