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That'll be 5c please![]()
Hmmm, gettin a little expensive. Used to be 2 pence. :highly_amused:
That'll be 5c please![]()
Very interesting subject and discussion.
As others have pointed out the issue can be summarized to "The problem is the relationship of the arm on the rocker shaft to the position of the left road wheel" so lets discuss just that aspect.
I'm a little concerned that you may not be giving enough credence to your having adjusted the camber to -1/2° from the standard +1° .
If this has been achieved by moving the top of the king pin in, as opposed to moving the bottom out, that will, in of itself, change the relationship of the rocker shaft to the position of the left road wheel.
( It will make the left wheel turn out)
To correct this you will need to turn the steering wheel to the right to make the left wheel point straight ahead.
Turning the wheel to the right to make the wheel point straight ahead will move the peg off the "high point" of the worm.
Obviously you can still get the "toe" correct by shortening the center rod BUT the peg NOT BE be on the high point of the worm.
Although it is indeed possible that the replacement rocker shaft is incorrectly made for experimentation, I would be inclined to return the camber of the left wheel to +1° before doing anything else.
That'll be 5c please![]()
...
I'm a little concerned that you may not be giving enough credence to your having adjusted the camber to -1/2° from the standard +1° .
If this has been achieved by moving the top of the king pin in, as opposed to moving the bottom out, that will, in of itself, change the relationship of the rocker shaft to the position of the left road wheel.
( It will make the left wheel turn out) ...
Inflation ... what can I say. Gotta eat you know :highly_amused::highly_amused:Hmmm, gettin a little expensive. Used to be 2 pence. :highly_amused:
First, when I have a problem on a car after I fixed something, I go over the list in my head of what I have touched (also in your case the accident) between the time it worked right and the time it worked wrong. And the problem is almost always found somewhere within those parameters. I agree, the problem in this case is that everything was touched.
You just identified camber plates, anything else? Did you take apart the front suspension when doing repairs? Yes, this car was on a rotisserie for over 6 years of metal work and there was not a bolt/nut left on it - entire steering box, rod ends, all bushings, new kingpins, wheel bearings, seals, etc. replaced/rebuilt. Literally everything that could come apart was apart.
Seems to be an issue present even when you replace the primary suspects from the steering box area with other parts.
Certainly appears from the description to be the result of a part made wrong or turned cattywhompus or bent and not small suspension adjustment issue. Turns out you are right & I'll will post the details next.
Second, on rack and pinion conversion. Never driven a Healey with it, have driven couple TR3s, Is the steering lighter and tighter?, yes, Does it still feel like you are still driving a TR3?, no, not to me anyway. I pretty much talked myself out of that yesterday.
Thanks, Michael. I get why moving the top of the king pin out--with eccentric bushings, shock plate, etc.--changes toe, but does moving the bottom of the king pin out do something different? It seems to me the results would be the same.
Edit: Asking pesky questions because I want to put aftermarket shock plates under the stock mounting plates so I can go from 1-1.5deg pos. to 0deg (probably should put the DWM steering column in first to see what it improves). Do you think that'll require shortening the cross link?
Who was responsible for the sloppy spline work? After my crash my splines were completely twisted so I bought a replacement shaft from DWR.
BTW all of this screws up bump steer royally.