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Steering Adjustment: Only Toe-Out

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I bought a kit from a local race shop. Two aluminum plates and two tape measures. The plates are set up against each wheel and each has two slots for the tape measures, one in front of the wheel and one behind.
 
Thank you, Bob S. I had searched threads and found that reversed steering arms was a cause of a similar challenge. My steering arms do "slant upward" which, according to previous threads, is correct. It is hard to tell in the pictures, though. This was surprising and probably the only time ever that I had a 50/50 probability and accidentally got it right.
 
Back to the subject: my first Healey had the same problem with the Rod being too long. I bought a die, cut off the rod and rethreaded the end so it would be adjustable. Perhaps as someone said there are sets of cross rods that were made incorrectly?
 
ties581006 said:
Thank you, Bob S. I had searched threads and found that reversed steering arms was a cause of a similar challenge. My steering arms do "slant upward" which, according to previous threads, is correct. It is hard to tell in the pictures, though. This was surprising and probably the only time ever that I had a 50/50 probability and accidentally got it right.
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Not only do they have to slant upward, they have to slant outward toward the wheel.
 
Jack T said:
My high tech solution was a 2' steel square and a Sharpie.
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I use 2 8ft lengths of unistrut which is a kind of lightweight U channel . I lightly tie wrap them to the spokes across the face of the wheels and measure with a tape measure in front and behind the wheels . Works like a charm .
 
Why would we want to put each other down? Our cars do a fine job of humiliating us.
 
This has been resolved thanks to the help from people on this forum. The replacement cross rod ends, Moss 667-580, are different from the original ends. In the picture the replacement end is on the right while the NOS part from ebay is on the left. The dimensional difference marked in the picture provides more than enough additional adjustment to bring the wheels into alignment. I hope this is clear and might help someone who runs into a similar situation.

Thanks to all for the help and support.

Mike T.

Cross Rod End Differences.jpg
 
Mike, good for you that you found it. Have you made it known to Moss. In spite of all the opinions and innuendos I still believe that Moss tries to get it right and appreciates the feedback.
 
Yes, that is a major difference in a component where 1/16" or 1/8" makes a big difference. Thanks for making the community aware of it so others will benefit in the future.
 
Hi Mike, Thanks for posting the picture. I didn't remember the reason, but this obviously explains why I shortened my cross rod a long time ago.

I agree with vette, letting Moss know is a good idea but I bet it's not just Moss, probably all of the suppliers sell the same thing (like lots of other parts) - maybe all that's available with the right threads and tapers?

Good news is, once you shorten the cross rod, you will be ready for the next time you need to replace them :smile:
 
Regarding setting toe: the vehicle should be on the ground and rolled forward before measuring the toe. If jacked up, the toe will appear toed-out even if it is correct (1/8" toed in) when on the ground and rolled forward.
 
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