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Tips
Tips

TR6 Starting

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Don't put the cart before the horse...See if you have spark at a plug first..then if not, you are already getting some suggestions as to what next.
 
OK I checked out the spark really couldn't see it but the motor did turn over and actually started for a bit then stalled. I pulled a plug didn't see any gas on it though?
 
I checked for spark had spark it actually caught and ran for a bit then stalled. I pulled a plug and didn't see any gas on it.
 
I remember you asking about the float height so if you did do any carb work, did any of it involved changing the needle height in the air valve ?
 
Yes I changed the needle valve to the ball type valve the ones in there were the straight needle that seemed to be sticking. I did set the float around .670 height. Do you think I need to set it at a different height
 
You're talking about changing the needle VALVE to a Grose jet....I was asking about the mixture needle, the one in the air valve that determines the fuel/air mixture...did you fool with it ?
As far as the float height, as I posted in the other topic..I use 17 mm...you can see how that converts to your .670" ...AND based on the past bad experiences, I would never install Grose jets...I probably have a cup full of old ones that I've removed from customers carbs and replaced with them the original plunger type needle valves
 
No I never messed with the needle. It's at the same setting as when it was running good. I guess I should go back to the plunger type I have. It seemed to stick when I was checking it out so I had the Grose ones hanging around they seemed to be freely moving.
 
May not be your problem right now, with the starting issue; but I'd still prefer them over the Grose jets...many times you can flush the needle valves with carb cleaner or even WD 40 to function like new or at least until they get stuck from the residue of evaporated gasoline.
BTW, I did the conversion...17mm is about equal to your .67" so you're probably OK there.
 
Thanks again it's getting late first thing tomorrow to be on the safe side I'm going to swap out the Grose jets and clean up the plunger ones as you suggested. I should see some gas residual on the plugs if there getting fuel correct because as I said earlier the engine was running for about 2 - mins then died out. I pulled a plug had some color to it but wasn't wet. Thanks again will be in touch tomorrow
 
Be sure to use Full choke when when first engaging the starter...then begin to cut back after a couple seconds. ZS carb...FULL CHOKE 001.jpg
 
Only saying this cause I have done it, did you remove the distributor cap and forget to put the rotor back on? Also I have had the little carbon button in the distributor that pushes on the rotor come out or stick in the distributor. A quick, easy check.

You said it was running fine, did it run after you had the head rebuilt and quit after you replaced the spark plug? Many times last parts touched Is a key to the problem.
 
sundown said:
Hi I need some help trouble shooting a starting problem. The car was running fine. Now it turns over but will not start. It is getting gas to the carbs. How can I check if it's getting spark. Thanks
Click to expand...

Sorry. Been a rough week, this was the comic relief I needed. Laughed pretty good.

Ran fine....last year.

Oh, pulled the head. Put rings in it, pulled the carbs apart and replaced the float valves.....but it was running fine.

Like George Washington's axe. Or at least in the same chapter.
 
Funny? How about rereading the earlier post or maybe you have ADHD!I posted it was running fine up until it started to smoke excessively. That's when I decided to do the head and rings. I think the weather where you live is getting to you.Glad I made your day Mr.Ignorant!
 
I’ll just mention this as it’s happened to me before...

If you had the carbs and manifold off, you may want to check that the intake manifold is seated securely against the head. Sometimes, it can get hung up and created a huge vacuum leak.

Just thought I’d put it out there as a possibility.

Cheers
Tush
 
Morning I just finished swapping out the Gross jets to the plunger type. You were right Poolboy they cleaned up nice with WD-40. I put the carbs back on and it fired up. I can't believe it was the the float jets messing me up. Thanks again everyone who helped me out. Excluding TOC my fan from from Antartica!!
 
Maybe some of you old fa...uh..fogeys like me remember Tom McCahill, who wrote reviews and covered automotive issues for (I think...) Mechanix Illustrated. He once made the remark that, if your car won't run, check for gas at the carbs and spark at the plugs. If you have both, get back in and start it up! Maybe a little oversimplified, but the point was well taken.
 
Congratulations. Now that your car is running again I have a question for Ken.

Using regular E10 without treatment our GT6 carbs gum up in about 3 months (little to no driving going on... mainly sitting). Do you have any recommendations for how to slow the buildup of deposits? Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
sundown said:
Funny? How about rereading the earlier post or maybe you have ADHD!I posted it was running fine up until it started to smoke excessively. That's when I decided to do the head and rings. I think the weather where you live is getting to you.Glad I made your day Mr.Ignorant!
Click to expand...

Oh, what shall I do? My mechanical conveyance will not function.

THIS thread. Don't care about any other right now.
I even quoted your opening volley.

What I DIDN'T quote was every addition to that (oh, yeah, ran fine....but I pulled the head and had it rebuilt. Oh, yeah, ran fine but put rings in it)


Folks steered you along. It ain't rocket science.
With the many reveals of what you have done, would not surprise me if you pulled the distributor out, took it all apart, and maybe left the drive out.
 
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