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TR2/3/3A Starting up an engine that hasn't ran for a while.

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bigjones

bigjones

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Hi folks,

I seem to remember some advice about starting up an engine that hasn't been run for a while. The advice is to pour in a teaspoon of motor oil down each plug hole. The theory is, I suppose, that you need to oil up the piston rings to stop them from sticking.

A couple of years back, I actually tried this and I got a seriously large cloud of black smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

Now I'm in the same predicament, with the engine not being run for a year and a quarter. Should I put in 1/2 tsp and leave it a week to soak down past the rings? Maybe 1/2 tsp of 5-30w instead of 20w-50. Or just fire 'er up.

I have another little problem (clutch reservoir ran dry - I'm saving that for another post) ) that prevents me from pushing the car around in gear.

Cheers!

bigjones
 
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I favor putting some light oil in the cylinders. Might help avoid some scuffing. Once it is there turn the engine over by hand to coat the cylinder walls. The puff of smoke is fine and to be expected. While the plugs are out, turn the engine over with the starter until you develop oil pressure. The oiling probably won't free any rings that happen to be stuck in their grooves. Running the engine will probably take care of that. Why did it sit so long?
Bob
 
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Pretty humid, so I’d also recommend spraying WD40 or other light oil in the plug holes. Then change the oil, clean and replace the plugs, clean and set the points. Then give her a try.
 
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Hi again,

Thanks for the replies.

Yeah, Raleigh, NC - so pretty humid.

I'll squirt in some WD40.

I plan on getting her flat-bedded to a LBC shop to take a look at the lack of fluid in the clutch reservoir so I'll ask them to change the oil and filter while they are at it.
Also, I'll pick up some new plugs - I have a Pertonix ignition installed.

I've haven't been feeling 100% this year so I haven't driven her around.

Cheers!

bigjones
 
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OK, after squirting in some WD40 down the plug holes, tried firing her up -no deal. But starter motor sounds OK.
Put in new plugs but still no starting.
But new clues!! - it not a plug issue and also (after sniffing the new plugs) - its not getting any fuel.
The gas gauge shows some fuel in the tank so it points to the fuel pump.
Seems mighty strange that it was fine before "storage".
Anyone got any ideas for further testing.
This morning, I had another look at it and found that it didn't want to prime using the lever on the pump.
Cheers
 
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First check for spark at the plugs. Then take the fuel line to the front carburetor off and try the priming lever. It should squirt fuel so put a small container under it. If you get fuel, the problem is not in the pump. Make sure th fuel is clean and has no water in it. If no fuel, change or rebuild the pump. If it does pump fuel, put the fuel line back on and try tapping gently on the fuel bowls with the little hammer. That often clears a stuck needle. If that doesn't work, remove the float bowl covers and check for fuel there. Easy to do on a TR3A. If one of the bowls is empty or low, try the priming lever again. If no fuel, replace the fuel inlet valves. (Those valves can stick open as well but that will cause flooding which will be obvious.)
Tom
 
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Tom,
Thanks for the reply.
What's the preferred technique for checking for spark with a one man situation?
I pointed the fuel line (disconnected at the fuel bowl) into a baked bean can and, sure enough, got gasoline coming out with every hand, priming stroke.
The gasoline looked good - no water or debris.
Cheers!
 
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Checking for a spark as a one-man operation is made easier by the car having a starter solenoid.

You can buy a spark tester for under $10 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HU2L1NU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) or hold the insulated cap of the plug and have the plug resting against the cylinder head.

Check you are in neutral, turn on the ignition and press the large button on the back of the starter solenoid. The engine should turn and the plug should (hopefully) spark.
 
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Gliderman8 said:
How old is the gas?
Click to expand...
Well, at least 1 and 1/2 years - I really should start using a log book and put in it repairs and gas refills.

auprichard said:
Checking for a spark as a one-man operation is made easier by the car having a starter solenoid.

You can buy a spark tester for under $10 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HU2L1NU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) or hold the insulated cap of the plug and have the plug resting against the cylinder head.

Check you are in neutral, turn on the ignition and press the large button on the back of the starter solenoid. The engine should turn and the plug should (hopefully) spark.
Click to expand...
Many thanks for the info - I'll head over to O'Reilly's later today.
 
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Get a set of points and condenser while you're there.
Here is a good source if you need to order them:
> Contact Us <

Tom
 
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bigjones said:
Thanks Tom - I've bookmarked that web page although I have a Pertronix installed.

Well, the inline tester I just bought shows I'm getting spark. That leaves stale gas as the culprit.
Any ideas on how to empty it out and dispose of it?
bigjones
Click to expand...
Are you sure it’s getting fuel?
Are carbs working?
 
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Contaminated gasoline is a problem in my area. All I can suggest is that you ask around. But that might not be necessary. How long has the car been sitting and was it running well when parked?

As for the bad gasoline things get a bit tricky. Take the sediment bowl (if it still has one) off the fuel pump. It's not unusual to have a little scuz at the bottom but should be no water. There is a drain on the tank but they usually stuck. The fittings on the hard lines on the pump are hard to re-seal too. Best way to do it in my opinion is with a siphon pump (Harbor Freight has them fairly cheap). Really no way to get rid of the scuz which is probably in the tank along with the bad gasoline. Sometimes if the gas is that bad the tank will require cleaning too.

The fuel inlet valves sometimes stick when left for long periods. Have you checked the fuel bowls? They should both be full. (The covers should come right off the tops, just one bolt and the hoses.
Also confirm the chokes are working. Pull the knob on the dash or have a helper do that and see if the levers move and perhaps reach down and see if they will move a bit more.

I usually don't recommend starting fluid but a squirt or two probably wouldn't hurt at this point.

Tom
 
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Thanks for all the replies.

I took the air filters off and checked the movement of the carb pistons - seemed OK to me. Also, took off the carb reservoir lid - the bowl was almost full of fuel. All in all, I'd say that the carbs were getting gas.
Next step up is starter fluid.
 
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She runs...!
Well, for about a split second, and that was using starting fluid. (Thanks Tom). This also ties in with Tom's suggestion to check that the chokes are working - they are not!
I've mislaid my Haynes book, so has anybody a link maybe to setting up the choke linkages?

PS. Just to be clear, I just need some instructions on adjusting the choke linkages so that I see something coming down from the carb (the jet assembly?) when I pull out the choke cable.
 
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Tom,
Now you mention it...when I first took out the plugs, I noticed that they were not wet. Not that I was looking at them with an eagle eye. Let me double check in the morning.
If they are not wet, obviously this is a problem, but what were you thinking may be the cause? The throttle spindle sticking?
 
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