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Stag Stag - Getting frustrated

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jclay

jclay

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Bought what I thought was a nice Stag. It would start right up, on several different days, ran nice everything when well until I got it home. It actually stop just short of my driveway.

Now, It does not want to idle, dies every time I select reverse or drive, have to hold my foot to the floor and crank like crazy to get it to restart.

I believe it is the carbs but I don't know and I am too new to Stags to venture a guess. Any suggestions?

Frustrated in Houston! :wall:
 
Hey, Clay -

Understand your frustration! Get hold of the Stag folks - Glenn Merrell is a great resource. Scroll down just a bit on this website for his contact info:

https://www.tscusa.org/parts.asp

Oh, and tell him hello for me!

Good luck!
Mickey
 
The carbs are always the last thing you touch.

Check your fuel filter first. It's very possible that you've dislodged crap in the fuel tank. I really like keeping a few of those cheap clear plastic filters in any car I'm getting to know.

While you're replacing the fuel filter disconnect the fuel line behind the pump. Open the fuel fill. Blow through until you've pushed all the fuel back into the tank. Do the same thing for the fuel line running from the pump to the carbs. At this stage at least you know your fuel lines should be clear. Hook everything back up. This is also a good time to replace all the old hose clamps as well as check the condition of the fuel lines.

Now disconnect the fuel line where it connects to the carb(s). Hold it over a bucket or similar receptical. Have an assistant turn the ignition enough to trigger the pump. Ensure that there's an appropriate amount of fuel coming out. Alternatively you can connect up an old fuel pressure dial (available at Harbor Freight). Make sure the pressure is in the right range (3-4 psi).

Once you have done all of this, as well as double checked the spark side of the ignition system & timing, then it's time to investigate the carbs. If you do reach this point I recommend (after getting the necessary carb rebuild kits) to first remove the fuel bowls, clean those, replace the needles, reset the float.

One final thing, Stags used Stromberg carbs. There may be a circular plug in the bottom of the fuel bowl. If that's the case you can (after putting a can or a rag underneath it) pull it out to ensure there's gas in the fuel bowls. If you run the fuel pump and the bowls don't fill then your needle or float settings are off.
 
I, too, would not immediately suspect the carbs.

When things go from 'fine' to 'no good' in an instant I think first of the ignition system. Fortunately that area is pretty easy to systematically test & diagnose.
 
Thanks,

I will go to that next. Fixing the license plate lights that were painted over, oh yes, and the lower radiator hose that is installed backwards.
 
purge the gas tank, replace the gas filter, check the fuel pump if its got a screen could be full of rust,

dont assume the worse case first, diagonose the easiest problem and work toward worse case, bet you have clogged fuel line, water in the gas or crap in the carb float bowls

Hondo
 
Changed the fuel filter, really bad and brown colored. I am replacing the spark plug wires, but I have to make them up individually, so it's taking some time. I did find one loose spark plug wire and that made a huge difference. I will also take the air cleaner out tomorrow and listen with some hose to check sync.
 
I know just how you feel! I bought what I thought was a "driver" Stag, to drive while I was rebuilding the engine in the first one. By the time I got it home, the speedometer had quit working, the back brakes had locked up, the starter quit working, then the power steering, then the front brakes locked up!

Pre-made plug wire sets are available from several sources, unfortunately all in the UK, since Walter Holiday got out of the business. My favorite vendor in the UK is https://www.ldpart.co.uk

Do a thorough tune-up first (which is sounds like you are working on), then the next place I would look is the fuel pump itself. The original pump diaphragms will not stand up to E10 and slowly turn to goo that will clog up the rest of the system. While you have the pump out, clean the contacts and consider adding a snubber diode. Or if you're not worried about originality, just swap it for a low pressure (3 psi) Facet electronic pump.

Also worth checking : the carbs are mounted to a pedestal, which in turn bolts to the intake manifold. There is a big O-ring in the pedestal-manifold joint, that sometimes becomes dislodged during installation and causes a vacuum leak. If you start messing with the carbs, pull the pedestal off and check the O-ring. I find that is usually the easiest method for getting the carbs out where you can work on them anyway.
 
Thanks for all the tips and advice! If it ever stops raining, I will be all up in it!

I will keep you posted.

I am making new spark plug wires.

Installing:
New cap.
New router
New sparking plugs.

Fix:
Have to fix the lower radiator hose that is rubbing on the alternator pulley.
Fix the universal joints.
Fix the folding top that won't release so I can put it down.
Sync the butterflies on the carbs.
Fix broken package shelf.
Fix the seat back adjustment arm.
Brake warning switch on proportion/splitter unit.
Fix temperature gauge.

That should hold me for a week!

Already fixed:
Inertia switch
Wheels that were corroded and would not hold air.
Fuel Filter.
New mufflers.
Power steering.
 
A quick check of the rubber diaphrams in each carb may revel the problem. Small cracks and holes can rob you of a lot of power. But by all means keep up what your are doing. excellent starting point for a new car.
 
The blank-ka-ty-blank thing stopped right in the middle of the interstate tonight. I got it off to the side of the road and tried to restart it. It would run as long as the key was in start position and die as soon as I let go of the key.

Called the tow truck. As soon as the tow truck got there I started with me holding my foot all the way to the floor as I cranked it over. Had it towed home any way. Started as soon as we got it off the truck. I am beginning that the car has an affinity for tow trucks!

Where do I go from here?
 
jclay said:
It would run as long as the key was in start position and die as soon as I let go of the key.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a bad ballast resistor. Could also be a bad ignition switch, or a wiring problem between switch, resistor and coil.

I'd suggest getting a cheap DMM and some "clip leads" to carry in the car, so you can do some quick troubleshooting the next time it happens. You can also use the clip leads to "hot wire" the coil and bypass the switch and wiring temporarily.

HF has started carrying clip leads; but the ones I got were too slick to use easily. I like the ones from Radio Shack better: https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062661#tabsetBasic

image_16395.jpg
 
I was thinking that it might me the switch, as it would run as long as I cranked it. Maybe the "RUN" circuit is bad on the switch, which would explain a lot of things!
 
jclay said:
I was thinking that it might me the switch, as it would run as long as I cranked it. Maybe the "RUN" circuit is bad on the switch, which would explain a lot of things!
Click to expand...
A possibility, certainly. As you may know, there is a separate circuit that supplies full battery voltage directly to the coil while the starter is engaged. In the "Run" position, the coil gets a reduced voltage through the ballast resistor. On early Stags, the ballast is a discrete block on the side of the coil; but on later cars it is a length of "resistance" wire buried inside the wiring harness.

I've not had the problem on my Stags (knock on wood), but my experience with other cars has been that the ballast was usually the culprit.

One easy way to check is to look at other things that get powered from the 'run' contact; like the voltmeter. If it is still reading 12v after the engine dies, most likely the switch is OK.
 
I agree with TR3driver. I had a couple of Volvos over the years that did that. In all cases it was the electrical connection to the ballast resister that was bad. The first time all I had to do was pull the connection apart and push it back in and the engine fired right up and kept on running. Maybe your continuing frustration is in the resister. If the resister over heats because it is going bad (they all get hot because of the resistance to reduce the voltage) and the resister starts putting out minimal current to fire the coil. A super weak spark could be where your misfiring is coming from.

Again I'd do what Randall suggested and take a jump wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil and fire that baby up and go for a good ride and see what happens. I don't think running a straight 12 volts for a relatively short time will hurt the coil.
 
If a Stag has a ballast resistor, that is a classic symptom of a bad one. I had a Dodge that did exactly what you describe.
 
Mickey Richaud said:
Hey, Clay -

Understand your frustration! Get hold of the Stag folks - Glenn Merrell is a great resource. Scroll down just a bit on this website for his contact info:

https://www.tscusa.org/parts.asp

Oh, and tell him hello for me!

Good luck!
Mickey
Click to expand...

Hey Mickey,
HI!! BTW, I am no longer affiliated with TSC USA since early 2009, nor do I recommend TSC USA for any Stag issues, support, membership or parts.

The premiere web site for Triumph Stag information is TriumphStag.net - open to any Triumph Stag enthusiast.

The problems Clay is having can be resolved using Joe Curto's expert ZS carburetor services, and a bit of troubleshooting for vacuum leaks and tuneup.

Clay, consider joining TriumphStag.net Phorum for free. You get lots of experienced solutions from lots of Triumph Stag owners who do not want to pilfer your deep pockets to support their retirement.

Cheers!
 
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