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Stag Stag - Getting frustrated

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JClay,

Nice Stag! Looks almost like the one I sold this summer to a guy in San Antonio - only mine has a 280 bhp Rover V8 that was fuel injected, 5 speed with GoodParts CV axles, and needed new paint.

How about more photos of your new baby - interior, engine bay, underside? And tell us mileage, history, etc.

Anyway, you are getting good advice here from the other contributors.
It sounds like if the paint job was sprayed over lenses and other trim and stuff, it was a quick job. BEWARE!! What lies under the glossy shine can seriously hurt your wallet.

Like the saying goes, you can put lipstick on a pig and it is still a pig!

For reference, a properly sorted Stag would have easily cost you over $15,000, and with a fresh quality respray job $18k - $25k. So consider that against what you paid.

So it is time to take off the rosy colored glasses and smack those stars out of your eyes. The Stag can be an excellent and reliable daily driver, but you or someone else have to put it into that condition and then learn how to keep it that way. There are far too many hack and bodge jobs out there that give our cars an unwarranted bad rap.

the good news is, after 41 years of repairs by enthusiasts all over teh globe, we know all the problems and how to make the Stag 100% reliable.

This means you need to carefully look over this car and correct anything else that was probably buggered up and half repaired.

The engine running problem you need to go back to the basics:
1. set up the mechanicals - Remember - EVERYTHING is set to TDC of #2, that is Cylinder NUMBER 2 <span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">not #1</span></span></span></span> - valves, timing, etc.
2. correct the electrics,
3. set up the ignition timing;
4. set up the carburetors

If this car has been bodged into running long enough for you to do an impulse purchase, the good advice given here so far to flush out the bad gas, clean out the fuel system is forward progress, but like everyone says there are other areas to fix - AND ...
<span style="font-weight: bold">listen for</span> before you go too far to make sure the engine is not about to self destruct.

Timing chain rattle on startup and shutdown - or while running for initial checks, looking to see the condition of the timing chains, gears, guides and tensioners; oil consumption; lower end rumble; fan torquatrol checking for imminent failure; water / cooling system checks, flushing and conditioning; brakes; driveline knocks and binds.

And when you get a large pool of ATF on your floor or driveway, do not panic too much as we can help you figure out if the transmission is overfilled or just burping out fluid from sitting for a few weeks.

Finally, remember to get onto TriumphStag.net, register your Stag - and I recall I approved you last week for the Phorum? The (phorum)forum has over 1200 Triumph Stag owners with a lot of experiences.
 
I did register, but it still block's me! Please email me a Triumph TR7s at me dot com
 
OK, I traced the wiring down on the diagram and determined that the white wire is the run wire. I tied into the existing white wire and ran a new one. The car started and ran for a few minutes, then died. Will NOT start again. I am really frustrated now!
 
So you ran the white wire directly to the coil? If so, I would be looking carefully at the points and coil. Otherwise, I'd start at the ballast resistor.

If that doesn't turn up anything obvious, check for spark at a plug. If you have an old spark plug laying around (saved from the last tune-up perhaps, doesn't have to be from a Stag), easy test is to connect the spare plug and lay it on a cam cover where you can watch while someone turns the key for you.

Assuming you find a good spark, I'd look at fuel delivery next. Disconnect the outlet of the filter and direct it into a suitable container, then turn the key on and check that you get a good, strong flow. It's low pressure, so it won't spray like a hose, but you should get a solid stream about the size of a pencil.

If that looks good, pop the air filter out and spray some carb cleaner into each inlet (the two holes under the air filter); then immediately try to start the engine. If it now shows signs of life (even just a couple of pops), you're not getting fuel through the carbs.

Hmm, how old is the fuel in the tank? If it is leftover from last fall (or you don't know), I would be tempted to change it.
 
1. I can smell the gas!
2. I have run the old gas out and it is new gas with carb cleaner in it.
Now I am sure that it is electrical as it doesn't even sound like it wants to fire.
3. I do see a ballast anywhere.
 
Smelling gas only proves that it's in the air; not that it is in the cylinders in the proper mixture. I have seen carbs that literally were dumping fuel on the ground, but not in the intake.

If it's electrical, then you won't get a spark at the plug as I suggested above. This is basic roadside troubleshooting stuff.

Of course, it could be electrical and you still see a spark; but it's a simple, basic test.
 
Normally I lurk arond the AH group, but I might offer some cheap advice here. Check the coil secondary wire (the small one) for continuity.

Just my opinion.
 
I used to get fustrated when I was a stag...then I got married and relized how good I had it. :wall: :laugh:
 
I had a cap and rotor fail on my TR6, not too familier with the Stag,
also I had a old volvo that had chunks of rust in the gas tank and eventually it would settle over the supply hole and get sucked to it and stop the flow of gas, and after it set for a few minutes it freed itself and would run again, not thats your issue,

did you check the fuel pump as suggested in previous posts?
do a tune up, cap, rotor, plugs, wires points ect if not already done
rebuild the carbs replace all the gas hoses then you can strike off those as possible causes

good luck

Hondo
 
I figured out what the problem is. It is the ignition switch.

No power to gauges, fuel pump or ignition circuit, but it will start when the starter is cranked.
 
I'd also check the wiring to the switch, before you go buying a new one. They aren't cheap.

If someone hasn't done it already, you'll probably need to grind the heads off the "security" bolts that hold the ignition lock assembly to the steering column (inside the plastic nacelle).

If I remember correctly, the TR6 ignition switch (only) will interchange. The plug that connects to the rest of the harness is different though, so you'll need to unsolder (or cut) the wires from the old ignition switch and solder them to the TR6 switch.
 
Jerry rigged a switch from the battery to the inertia switch. It will start and run, but I wouldn't try to run any other power things with this rig, but I can at least move the car. Maybe I can move the TR8 into the garage and fix the leaking fuel injectors.

Still raining here in Houston. Back stroke to church tomorrow!
 
Hello Mickey,
My Stag experience sounds exactly like yours. It loved to be towed home after any brief drive. My 24,000 mile example was / is so tidy there were a lot of items that would check off the list immediately. A fuel pump change had me optimistic but the tow truck was summoned once again. After a year of frustration I made a deal with a local pro to do the work at his shop using my labor and his expertise, albeit not Stag specific. New brakes hydraulics throughout, timing chain, valve adjust, and so on, would have nothing to do with the Snag running. The pro rebuilt carbs though not a perfect story of it's own had me going to Joe Curto for correct Stromberg needles to finish the what he started( some nut advertised in The Vintage Triumph says he's a chemical engineer, who who). While my troubleshooting other items is on going the Mimosa Yellow Stag makes all trips by running the whole distance.

Ditto Glenn A. Merrell, TSC USA is not much assistance. I'll give my $25.00 to Meals On Wheels.

Best of luck,

Mark Farver
 
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