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TR2/3/3A Squeaking Clutch when hot

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I have an old Ford truck that has a slight squeak at idle that I have assumed to be the input shaft bushing; the slight squeak has been there for many years. Sometime I will push the clutch in and out just to hear the squeak go away.

I figured when I put the new input shaft bushing in years a go, I lifted up the input shaft in the trans and it drags and squeaks on the bushing when I push the clutch down.

Perhaps when you hit the brake the bushing is moving with the crank. If the noise is gentle, I would drive the car and just be neurotically listening like I always do. Is this your first TR3?

steve
 
Bummer.

Actually, in neutral, every gear in the box is spinning. Only the output shaft is stationary...but I cannot think of anything in a gearbox that would chirp.

Back to engine and tranny mounts, exhaust pipes and mufflers.
 
Yes, my first TR3. Been a labor of love for about 3 years. TR3 gearbox was about to explode so rebuilt a TR4 with new synchros, bearings, input shaft bearing, lay shaft bearings, etc. All bushings within spec or replaced. As for the actual chirp, it is definitely metal on metal rotating in sync with RPM of the motor. Based on the noise, I’m fairly confident it’s not anything rubbing (exhaust) as I can even hear the chirp wind down as RPM slows down. I’ll probably get a stethoscope to point me in the direction of the noise.
 
I find a good way is with a piece of rubber hose and stick it in one ear then wave the other end about till you home into the noise,
great for finding air leaks too.
 
The gearbox is in constant motion while running,only when a gear is selected does the out put shaft turn.
I predict there will be metal in the gear oil
Mad dog
 
I am hoping for a simple cause…but a spun engine bearing does “chirp”. I still can’t think of anything in the gearbox that would chirp.

Did you change out the flywheel to crank bolts? If too long they will contact the block
 
No, I did not change out the flywheel bolts. I'm assuming this is all related to the gearbox change out but it could be the random next thing to fix as our Triumphs do. Here's the sequence of events:
Trans Pull 1: Rebuild TR4 gearbox with new bearings, input shaft bearing, synchros, 2nd gear bushing, lay shaft bearings, thrust washers, gaskets, fork pin bolt, etc. Replaced TR3 gearbox and transferred Type A Overdrive to new TR4 gearbox. All within spec that I can tell and runs/shifts smooth. Introduced different clutch fork (used) and throw out bearing (used) from the TR4.
Trans Pull 2: Install new OE throw out bearing
Trans Pull 3: Install new brass throw out bearing carrier and input bushing. To replace bushing, I did remove clutch and flywheel but reinstalled with correct torque. No issues there that I could see.
Pulled belt to eliminate water pump and generator. Eliminated bell housing dust cover.

Next I'll check crank end float and try to locate the area of the noise (gearbox, engine, or forward). I couldn't locate it with a hose but maybe stethoscope will help.
I'll try and post up a recording of the noise and behavior if I can.
 
when the engine is running, handbrake on select a gear, this should still the gearbox, nothing turning.
if the chirp is gone then its in the box,
If the chirp is still there you need to look engine end
 
I can’t get the video to run. I do have a question about your clutch. Are you using all TR4 clutch, bearing, sleeve and fork parts? While some clutch parts are interchangeable, others are not between the 3 and 4.
 
cant tell by pumping the clutch as in video.
handbrake on in gear clutch held down,
hold the clutch down.
if chirp still there then its not the box take it out of gear clutch up,
still there can rule out throw out bearing, unless there is not enough free play and it still dragging on the clutch cover plate.
lightly press the clutch on and off just enough to remove free play does the chirp change or stays the same.
Get a piece of garden hose in your ear and go around every part of the engine and bay find out where it is loudest
 
Do you have the right bearing for the clutch?? there are early and late styles. The tr4 release
will not work in a Tr3.
Mad dog
 
I thought it could be the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, but the noise is instant as soon as you press the clutch and I think the output shaft would still be spinning. The only other thing that is spinning is the tachometer, just for Curiosity undo the cable at the distributor and see what happens I guess you have to try everything.

Graham
 
Yes, TO bearing was for a TR3 per Moss.
I've backed off the slave cylinder by 2 turns so TO bearing should not be engaged. Chirp hits over 1200 RPM without clutch depressed, so I believe TO bearing is eliminated.
Spigot bearing has been replaced through this process also. I did soak it in oil but worth noting I did not grease it, but I believe that is correct.
Old and new Spigot bearing rotates freely in crank, which seems odd but I think that is correct also.
I'll add distributor to the list to check.
 
Excellent video. I was expecting to hear "chirp-chirp-chirp" (the sound you'd get if just one section of the flywheel, or one blade of the fan, contacted one spot of something stationary) but I'd call that a whirring sound (like something in the rotating assembly is making more constant contact with something stationary). Rubbing rather than striking, in other words. The witness mark on the rotating piece is going to be a full circle, not just a segment. The high pitch also sounds to my ears like sheet metal, or maybe similar to the sound of a sharp cutting tool being used on a lathe.

The conditions are exactly as described originally. Comes in as RPMs increase, then disappears at idle. Starts up instantly as clutch is pressed and disappears instantly as it's released.

Hopefully that modified description helps for anyone who can't play the vid.
 
I got the video to play on another computer...now I can't hear the chirp!?! It just sounds like exhaust...could from 45 years of flying jets. From Jay's description it still sounds like the clutch cover...unless you have enough crankshaft end play for the cam gear to hit front the cover. Other things that can rub are the flywheel starter ring bolts, and the starter itself.
 
Thanks all. Keep in mind also this only happens after 20-25 minutes of driving. That is consistent. So, I assume heat is causing something to expand or flex, which then causes the 'rub'. I'll run down a few of the items discussed here and provide updates soon.
 
Just because the TO bearing is brand new does NOT it is any good. I have personally been the victim
of defective parts too many times to count,I hope it is not you too but fear it may be.
Mad dog
 
I considered that but after TR4 gearbox rebuild, I put in a used TO bearing and experienced the noise. That is what led me to put in a new TO bearing and new carrier. Two TO bearings having the exact same noise is unlikely. And the noise is present with the TO bearing away from the clutch plate so feeling fairly confident I can eliminate the bearing, but you never know.
 
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