Sprite 58 turn indicator problems

[sim]

Installing a new electronic flasher made by CEC Ef33 has 3 prongs . I can get it to work but when the ignition switch is turned on , the dash light flashes when the switch is in the off position. Flick switch to right and right lights blink and dash light still blinking. The same when switch is to left . Left lights blink and dash light blinks. Put switch in center position dash light still blinking but turn lights are off. I pulled the switch and messed with different wire placement. now I was lost so i pulled all wires off to find the hot one. When ignition switch was turned on the dash turn light still blinked. I pulled the green wire off the flasher unit , put the wires back on the switch, turned on the ignition switch and the flasher unit still worked. Just no dash light. So here is my thought. Cut the green wire at the dash light and then add a new wire to the flasher unit . it would connect to the L and R legs. So when the turn lights blink so will the dash light. Think this will work? As the only time the F unit gets power is when the dash switch is switched L or R when ignition switch is on.

 

[dklawson]

I am not familiar with how Bugeye differs from other LBCs nor am I familiar with the specific flasher you selected. However....

Take a look at the schematic for the EF33 linked below. Look at the function of the P, X, and L terminals and make sure they match functionally your Bugeye wiring diagram (X = inplug power, L = Load (lamps), P = dash indicator lamp).
https://ceclighting.com/pdfs/EF33.pdf

Again, I don't know how the Bugeye wiring compares to other LBCs of the period. The picture below is how the wire color codes compare to the Triden EL13 flasher on my Mini.
https://sites.google.com/site/purlawson/home/pictures/AftermarketFlasher.jpg

 

[SaxMan]

Are you using LED lights? I had a similar problem when I did an LED conversion on my '69 Sprite. Ultimately, I had to swap the LEDs with a different set, which stopped the flashing. According to the supplier, Joe Parlanti at Velocity Solutions, the LEDs were causing "interference" with the other lighting in the vehicle. I wish I understood the interference concept better. Automotive electrics are still a bit vague for me.

Do the dash lights still blink when you turn on the driving lights? Does your tag light also blink? If the tag lights blink, too, then you have some kind of interference issue with your wiring. You may want to swap bulbs and see if that changes anything.

 

[Bayless]

The green wire is the hot wire. with it removed from the flasher, the flasher should not work at all. If it does then something is surely amiss somewhere. If you connect both the left and right legs to the dash light then you will have created a "hazzard lights" system. Making either one will also make the other so that all lights flash. I'm afraid you will have to find what is actually wrong. From what I read, I would start with another flasher. It sounds like there may be an internal short between X and P in the one you have. Also heed Doug's advice to ensure you have all the wires connected to the right posts. According to my BE wiring diagram, the green wire goes to the X (or B) post on the flasher, the light green wire connects the P post to the dash light and the L post is connected to the turn switch by a green/brown wire. The green wire should be hot when the ignition switch is on. Hope this helps.

 

[sim]

I am not familiar with how Bugeye differs from other LBCs nor am I familiar with the specific flasher you selected. However....

Take a look at the schematic for the EF33 linked below. Look at the function of the P, X, and L terminals and make sure they match functionally your Bugeye wiring diagram (X = inplug power, L = Load (lamps), P = dash indicator lamp).
https://ceclighting.com/pdfs/EF33.pdf

Again, I don't know how the Bugeye wiring compares to other LBCs of the period. The picture below is how the wire color codes compare to the Triden EL13 flasher on my Mini.
https://sites.google.com/site/purlawson/home/pictures/AftermarketFlasher.jpg

this car is + ground. If I take the hot lead and put it on X nothing happens. However it works on L. Using a test light on X the test light works. From the schematic it looks like one wire from the load to dash light will make the dash light flash in L Or R turns. As the indicator switch has separate contacts which should keep energy to dash light separate.
Still cannot figure out how dash light gets energy when ignition switch is on.
Thanks for your help Sim

 

[sim]

Are you using LED lights? I had a similar problem when I did an LED conversion on my '69 Sprite. Ultimately, I had to swap the LEDs with a different set, which stopped the flashing. According to the supplier, Joe Parlanti at Velocity Solutions, the LEDs were causing "interference" with the other lighting in the vehicle. I wish I understood the interference concept better. Automotive electrics are still a bit vague for me.

Do the dash lights still blink when you turn on the driving lights? Does your tag light also blink? If the tag lights blink, too, then you have some kind of interference issue with your wiring. You may want to swap bulbs and see if that changes anything.

Not using LED Will check if other lights blink but I do not think so Do you have a phone number for Joe?
May have to call Joe
thanks
rod

 

[dklawson]

this car is + ground.

That probably changes everything. The flasher you selected is an electronic unit. It is going to be polarity specific and expecting to be used on negative ground cars.

I suggest investing in an OEM Lucas unit or an equivalent electromechanical flasher such as the common #550 flasher (image link below). The electromechanical flashers will not be polarity sensitive.

https://www.taillightking.com/images/Turn Signal Switch/Ideal 550 Flasher.gif

 

[Bayless]

A solid state unit driven by + ground then all bets are off. Without knowing exactly what's inside, it's near impossible to guess why it acts strange, but not surprising.

 

[sim]

A solid state unit driven by + ground then all bets are off. Without knowing exactly what's inside, it's near impossible to guess why it acts strange, but not surprising.

However It will work with power on L and X the load. I think I can get the the dash light to blink by running a wire from X post to dash light . A test light blinked but I did not try 2 at a time. One test light on each post. Will give that a try later
Thanks
Rod

 

[dklawson]

However It will work with power on L and X the load. I think I can get the the dash light to blink by running a wire from X post to dash light .

That may work. The indicator light should function as another signal lamp wired as you describe.

 

[nomad]

You could also change the system polarity. Pretty simple.

Kurt.