Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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It doesn't seem to show any of its AH lineage!
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hooey
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hi all
I'm new here but not new to the MG car world, been working and racing on all type of imports for over 40 years now
I see that aeronca65t has posted a pic of my car here !(mini-Viper)
as soon as I find out how to post some pic's here I will
I made the front end its not a kit and it has a 13b mazda 6 port in it with lot of mods
I'm new here but not new to the MG car world, been working and racing on all type of imports for over 40 years now
I see that aeronca65t has posted a pic of my car here !(mini-Viper)
as soon as I find out how to post some pic's here I will
I made the front end its not a kit and it has a 13b mazda 6 port in it with lot of mods
G
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HEY HEY HEY, glad to see ya here brother! WELCOME! Yes please, post some pics. That thing is beautiful.
hooey
Senior Member
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This is what I have in the car
Transmisson: Mazda RX7 5-speed
ENGINE: 13-B 6port Mazda Rotary
Modifications: Ported, lighter rotars, balanced, electronic ignition, custom made headers and stainless steel mufflers.
INDUCTION: a Weber 48 IDF
FRONT SUSPENSION: Double wishbone with coilovers (Carrera shocks): all pieces were hand-made out of aluminum and stainless steel, down to the kingpins. All the link attachments are with Himes . There are no rubber components in the suspension. The car has been bumped-steered and suspension geometery has 0% acumen. The suspension is fully adjustable caster, camber, and bumped-steer for whatever ride height I want.
REAR SUSPENSION: The car has a Mazda Truck rear end with a four-link and a panrod.
BODY: Hand-formed fiberglass front end with molded acrylic headlight lenses. Side pods are removable for storage. The doors have been shaved of handles, locks and windows. The rear has fiberglass flares and the reverse lights and bumpers have been shaved.
CHASSIS: Existing MG unibody with a tube frame with roll-cage.
Wiring: All hand made wiring looms with Sermo connectors and a Painless wiring fuse-box.
DRIVE SHAFT: Custom made.
BRAKES: all Mazda RX7. All stainless steel brakelines. Tilton pedal assembly with dual master cylinder for brakes and fully adjustable biase.
WEIGHT: 1980 Wet.
BALANCE per scales: 48% in the front and 52% in the rear.
Transmisson: Mazda RX7 5-speed
ENGINE: 13-B 6port Mazda Rotary
Modifications: Ported, lighter rotars, balanced, electronic ignition, custom made headers and stainless steel mufflers.
INDUCTION: a Weber 48 IDF
FRONT SUSPENSION: Double wishbone with coilovers (Carrera shocks): all pieces were hand-made out of aluminum and stainless steel, down to the kingpins. All the link attachments are with Himes . There are no rubber components in the suspension. The car has been bumped-steered and suspension geometery has 0% acumen. The suspension is fully adjustable caster, camber, and bumped-steer for whatever ride height I want.
REAR SUSPENSION: The car has a Mazda Truck rear end with a four-link and a panrod.
BODY: Hand-formed fiberglass front end with molded acrylic headlight lenses. Side pods are removable for storage. The doors have been shaved of handles, locks and windows. The rear has fiberglass flares and the reverse lights and bumpers have been shaved.
CHASSIS: Existing MG unibody with a tube frame with roll-cage.
Wiring: All hand made wiring looms with Sermo connectors and a Painless wiring fuse-box.
DRIVE SHAFT: Custom made.
BRAKES: all Mazda RX7. All stainless steel brakelines. Tilton pedal assembly with dual master cylinder for brakes and fully adjustable biase.
WEIGHT: 1980 Wet.
BALANCE per scales: 48% in the front and 52% in the rear.
hooey
Senior Member
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We started with the front end by covering everything with plastic and cardboard to protect the car. Then I took 22 gallons of open cell polyurethane foam (this is an expanding agent such as is used with insulation) and made a solid block to carve the molds out of. The open cell foam is very pliable and manageable for forming (sands very easily also) but does have an offensive odor and tends to get everywhere. Imagine my mess!! But it did serve the purpose well.JPSmit said:that's amazing! Could you say a few words on how you got from cardboard and foam to that hood?
Now that I have the front end encased in a block of foam, I begin sculpting my vision of the front end. More mess! This took us roughly 3 months to complete. My son hated this as you can imagine.
Now we start with the fiberglass (More mess!!!More Smell!!!). For 9 months sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, fill; you get the picture. I thought it would go on forever. You probably have a good idea of my sons reaction to this tedious task, now multiply by 10.
Finally, ready for gel coat. Worse smell,Worse mess! I cut out the headlight openings and used them to make the molds so I could vacuum form the headlight lenses. This was quite the feat in and of itself. I first tried plexiglass; no optical clarity and looked like crap and blew up one of the molds in the vacuum press. I went home and fixed the molds and started researching for the perfect plastic to make them out of. I ended up with a cast acrylic sheet; this was the ticket. But, I could only get it in a 4x8 sheet of material for $300 (OUCH). So, cash upfront, special order and $300 later I have the material for the headlights. I now took my $150 a piece headlight lenses home and molded them into the front end.
My son and I had to build the frame work for the tilt forward front end. We also made the side pods at this time. We then moved to the rear end. Starting with the rear flares we made the molds from posterboard and masking tape. We laid a large amount of wax before starting with the fiberglass. Laid up two layers of fiberglass and then removed the flares from the car and removed posterboard and tape. Now we reattach the flares with a bonding agent and back to sand, fill, sand, fill, my son is overjoyed at this point with the whole project.
Aggudabbu
Senior Member
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Wow hooey!
Great job, I can't imagine how much time you must have spent doing that bonnet. Considering the time put in just making some repairs and mould new vessels to mount the indicators to on my own bonnet.
There's a guy over here in Sweden that did something similar to what you did although he used a existing bonnet and made all his work on, then he made a shell from that and made another lighter one from that.
Here's some pics from his project
Great job, I can't imagine how much time you must have spent doing that bonnet. Considering the time put in just making some repairs and mould new vessels to mount the indicators to on my own bonnet.
There's a guy over here in Sweden that did something similar to what you did although he used a existing bonnet and made all his work on, then he made a shell from that and made another lighter one from that.
Here's some pics from his project
G
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drooartz said:
And apparently alot of spare time.
