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Spin-On Oil Filters

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twas_brillig

Jedi Knight
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We have a spin-on oil filter on our BJ7 and I was doing an oil change t'other day, and discovered that I didn't have an extra filter - the one on the car was a Motaquip VFL 101. I did my usual tour of the internet to find a cross-reference to that particular brand and part-number, but didn't come up with anything that was locally available. (I also managed to lose the copper washer off the sump drain plug.)

John down at Bowness Auto Parts (for folks in Calgary) was able to get me a workable copper washer, and introduced me to the Wix filter website that provided their equivalent part number and also advised that it's got a 3/8 x 16 thread, plus provided the rubber gasket OD, ID, and thickness. This meant we could go into > Catalogs < and enter the thread size, then sort to find a filter with a matching (or close enough) OD and ID on the rubber contact gasket. It turns out that a BMW 2002 oil filter matches well enough (but I'm going with my memory here, so for goodness sake's, check it yourself).

I did an oil change on my old Buell motorcycle as well, and the Harley oil filter that I had been using (it was maybe half an inch longer than the one called up in the parts manual) is no longer available. So i bought the shorter stock one. However, with the Wix website I was able to find one that was equivalent to my old long Harley filter (H-D doesn't put part numbers on their filters).

The Healey started and didn't puke oil and the oil pressure looked okay, so all is good. The only concern is that there's not a lot of room around the filter and my most recent wrench only worked on getting the Motaquip filter off because I was able to tighten it down on the indentations in the base of the filter, and my shiny Wix doesn't have those.

I dunno if this'll work, but I wrapped duct tape around the filter, hoping it'll provide enough grip down the road to be able to unscrew it without it turning into another "learning experience."

Doug
 
A K&N HP-2009 has a hex nut kinda thing at the end for removing with a regular wrench.
K&N HP2009
 
GregW said:
A K&N HP-2009 has a hex nut kinda thing at the end for removing with a regular wrench.
K&N HP2009
Click to expand...

CraigC said:
I'll assume you came up with a 51516?
A filter wrench of this style should work fine. It has the advantage of being able to loosen and tighten unlike some of the other styles. Strap-style oil filter wrench
Click to expand...
A strap wrench or something like this. I've never met a filter cartridge I couldnt persuade with this. A few even got messy but they came off. I find it is also useful for those thin extra large nuts one may find on a sink drain or toilet tank.
 

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Plus 1 on Wix. I also use Hastings and Baldwin. Napa gold are made by Wix . Over the years and a few different cars these 3 have shown great anti-drain back capabilities. www.bobistheoilguy.com has hours of reading on this subject. In a pinch the last ditch removal method can be a very long screw driver pierced all the way through the filter then a whack with the rubber mallet. Very messy but it works.
 
At one time I had a filter that refused to come off either by strap or any other tool , they just bent the can up. Last resort was to drive a screwdriver through it and turn. to this day just hand tight only.
 
OK, someone gotta ask (might as well be me): Why are some having to go to great lengths--screwdriver through the can--to remove a filter? The installation instructions usually say something like "Screw in until gasket makes contact, then one-and-a-half turns." No one is using a wrench or strap to tighten a filter (I hope)? My 'human torque wrench' has four settings : Finger-tight, Wrist-tight, Elbow-tight and Shoulder (All-in) tight." I set it to Wrist-tight for spin-on filters.

Also, I use a high-quality silicone dielectric grease that was recommended for filter installation of aircraft engine filters--good enough for a plane, good enough for a car I reckon--on the gasket. But, I'll use (clean) engine oil in a pinch. The only filter I had trouble de-installing was when I was trying to impress a girlfriend by doing an oil change on her 4-Runner. Some shop had torqued the snot out of its filter and I had to give up on changing the filter lest I cause some damage (she wasn't impressed).

ps. Spark plugs--the massive electrode type--were torqued to 18 lb-ft.
 
Heres the spin on that came in my kit from AutoFarm . I would think that the filter is made by whoever and NAPA just adds the logo etc .
Yes Hand tight only and calibrated forearm finger tight plus a bit so it doesn’t leak and prelube the seal
 

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Three nice things about the K&N filters which should help you sleep at night:

1. The end of the filter is shaped to receive a hex socket--1" I think
2. The end of the filter is drilled to receive safety wire which I do religiously to all my cars--street or track.
3. There are specific instructions on the filter canister saying how much to tighten it after the seal makes contact.

Best--Michael Oritt
 
I can't say for sure because I've never tried a K&N, but they might not work for a BJ8 with a stock Girling servo. The Wix filters I use just clear the servo, anything longer possibly would not.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
I can't say for sure because I've never tried a K&N, but they might not work for a BJ8 with a stock Girling servo.
Click to expand...
If you have an oil cooler, that might add to the filter/servo interference. Unless you do something like Randy Forbes did, which was to modify his spin-on mount so the filter sat threads up. K&Ns 2008 filter is a little shorter but doesn's have the anti-drain back feature.
 
Healey Nut, what is the aluminum spacer I see between your Spin On adapter and the filter? Thanks.
 
GregW said:
... K&Ns 2008 filter is a little shorter but doesn's have the anti-drain back feature.
Click to expand...

Speaking of this, I think it's good to have anti-drainback, but I think whatever oil is in the filter above the bottom of the outlet port will drain back when the engine stops anyway? Anyone know for sure? There seems to be at least some left when I change a Wix--sideways mounted--but some is better than none (like some of the old Ferarris' mounted upside-down vertically--I don't think anti-drainback can make a perfect seal indefinitely). I always cringe a little when I start my Healeys, waiting for the OP gauge to come alive (usually about 2 seconds).
 
According to box descriptions I have seen over the years some K&N's have an anti-drainback "valve" and some make no mention of that.
My 100 does not have a brake booster so clearance is not a problem for me. I use the K&N 2009.

I'd like to find a spin-on conversion kit that allows for vertically mounting the filter (facing up) to make filter-changing less of a messy ordeal, and obviously having to go under the car to take it off is not an issue as I already have to do so to drain the sump. The spin-on kit I have is made by Moss but I know someone makes what I am looking for. Any leads will be appreciated.
 
Is this an option ??

www.ahexp.com

Oil Filter Adapter Head / Filter Housing (Page 2) : The 100 Forum : The Austin-Healey Experience

I am in the process of disassembly of my BN1. As a barn find vehicle, stored by a deceased family patriarch, with a license plate that expired in 1965 it has been sitting for quite some time. I recently removed the oil filter adapter head and filter housing. The assembly is very familiar as many o
www.ahexp.com www.ahexp.com

look at #19

Flexolite;

FA015: Austin Healey 100/4 to 1956 - Oil Filter Adaptor Kits - parts | Flexolite

<p>Spin on oil filter conversion kit - includes adaptor plate, extention and spigot bolt (3/8"UNF male to head, 3/4"UNF to filter), two sealing rings and oil fi
www.flexolite.co.uk www.flexolite.co.uk

 
Last edited:
BigGreen--

Unless I am misunderstanding something both of those seem to be utilizing the original filter head with a conversion conversion "sandwich" piece. I discarded the Tecalamite canister head years ago and am looking for a one-piece 90 degree mount.

I've often wondered about your "handle"--I used to live in the Abacos (Bahamas) and there was a particular reef that teemed with Mangrove Snapper. It was also the home of a large 5'-6' Green Moray Eel who was very possessive about his reef and while he never acted in an aggressive manor I always deferred to him when he was out on patrol. We called him Big Green....
 
vette said:
Healey Nut, what is the aluminum spacer I see between your Spin On adapter and the filter? Thanks.
Click to expand...
ITs a diverter plate with threaded in and out connections on the bottom that will have hoses routed to the oil cooler .
 
Healey Nut said:
ITs a diverter plate with threaded in and out connections on the bottom that will have hoses routed to the oil cooler .
Click to expand...
thanks for the clarity. Without the hoses I went into brain fog.
 
bdcvg said:
Plus 1 on Wix. I also use Hastings and Baldwin. Napa gold are made by Wix . Over the years and a few different cars these 3 have shown great anti-drain back capabilities. www.bobistheoilguy.com has hours of reading on this subject. In a pinch the last ditch removal method can be a very long screw driver pierced all the way through the filter then a whack with the rubber mallet. Very messy but it works.
Click to expand...
Good to hear Wix is also recommended here. We'll be working on buddy's new BJ7 project soon after we finished installing the suspension and skid plates from 4Wheelonline onto the Wrangler and clear the garage.
 
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