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Spin-on oil filter for BJ8

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I did the same on my BJ8. Looked around and there seemed a few versions, some with quite small filters. In the end I went for Denis Welch's one that came with a good size Wix filter. Easy to do and although I read about people struggling to get oil pressure after on start up, I had no issues. I did fill the filter as much as I could before I fitted it though.

Now the oil pressure is up immediately on starting as it doesn't drain down like the old one did. Worth doing and less messy on changes. Hope it helps.

Steve.
 
John Turney said:
I have the Moss one. Has worked just fine since 2000.
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Same here, for 20 years at least. I just put the same one on the BN2, but there's a 'quirk' with the 100 adapters: BN1s use a BSF thread in the block and, supposedly, BN2s use UNF (or whatever the later, standardized thread is). HOWEVER, some BN2s had the BSF threaded block--guess which one yours truly has (required a special order to Moss for the cap screws). My BN2 is a 100M that also used one of the 'oddball' distributors, but it's all original. Now I buy filters in 'bulk' for both cars (and use the same oil, too).

Just keep the canister in case you ever want/need to sell the car (or you decide you just don't have enough Healey work to do). And, though the filters look kinda small they appear to hold nearly the same volume as the filters on my 4.6L Mustang.
 
I stayed stock using Wix canisters. I remove the whole assembly from the side of the block which makes mess control easy. I do have a lift which helps and I keep a few of the block gaskets around. I only change the oil 2x a year so It's not really a hassle.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Same here, for 20 years at least. I just put the same one on the BN2, but there's a 'quirk' with the 100 adapters: BN1s use a BSF thread in the block and, supposedly, BN2s use UNF (or whatever the later, standardized thread is). HOWEVER, some BN2s had the BSF threaded block--guess which one yours truly has (required a special order to Moss for the cap screws). My BN2 is a 100M that also used one of the 'oddball' distributors, but it's all original. Now I buy filters in 'bulk' for both cars (and use the same oil, too).
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with my very late production BN2, which is also an "M".

Bob_Spidell said:
Just keep the canister in case you ever want/need to sell the car (or you decide you just don't have enough Healey work to do). And, though the filters look kinda small they appear to hold nearly the same volume as the filters on my 4.6L Mustang.
Click to expand...


The filter used fits a very large number of Ford products which makes it easy to find and cross reference to one's favorite brand.
 
bdcvg said:
I stayed stock using Wix canisters. I remove the whole assembly from the side of the block which makes mess control easy. .
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ME TOO!

Cept i have a complete buit up spare canister assembly.
While the shop peole are draining the oil, I remove the dirty assembly from the block hand it to a tech to dispose of the filter and clesn it up.While he is doing this I install the clean spare painted assembly.

Back home I clean the assembly removed from the engine , Install new filter paint and when dry place in a plastic bag to keep it clean until next oil change.

Fortunately I also bought two cases of WIX felt filters so i am good to go
 
CraigC said:
... The filter used fits a very large number of Ford products which makes it easy to find and cross reference to one's favorite brand.
Click to expand...

Yeah. The filter Moss sent with my adapter--it was extra, of course--was a Fram PH3600. Fram doesn't have a great reputation--but I've never known one that failed, and the quality has supposedly improved--so I switched to Wix years ago. The x-ref for Wix is #51516, a case (12) of which can be bought on eBay for about $50.

One filter used on a lot of Fords, including my dad's '55 T-Bird and '65 Mustang is Fram PH8. It's a big sucker.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Yeah. The filter Moss sent with my adapter--it was extra, of course--was a Fram PH3600. Fram doesn't have a great reputation--but I've never known one that failed, and the quality has supposedly improved--so I switched to Wix years ago. The x-ref for Wix is #51516, a case (12) of which can be bought on eBay for about $50.

One filter used on a lot of Fords, including my dad's '55 T-Bird and '65 Mustang is Fram PH8. It's a big sucker.
Click to expand...
If I'm not mistaken, that crosses over to their HP-1 (high performance) filter, as well as other manufacturers. The HP-1 uses an anti-drainback (if the PH-8 doesn't) and may offer higher filtration and/or flow rates.

The remote filter mount on BN6L/942 uses the PH-8/HP-1 size filter, hanging straight down, so it can't drain the oil out if it wanted too. This also allows me to completely saturate and fill the filter before installation. But for the life of me, I couldn't tell you what brand of filter is currently on the car; I know it's black, and my date/mileage lettering shows up nicely... :eek:

My ex-brother-in-law used to give me Baldwin industrial filters, which had a solid reputation, but I've gone and blown that connection (for a while, I had all the Healey & MGB oil filters I could use).
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Yeah. The filter Moss sent with my adapter--it was extra, of course--was a Fram PH3600. Fram doesn't have a great reputation--but I've never known one that failed, and the quality has supposedly improved--so I switched to Wix years ago. The x-ref for Wix is #51516, a case (12) of which can be bought on eBay for about $50.

One filter used on a lot of Fords, including my dad's '55 T-Bird and '65 Mustang is Fram PH8. It's a big sucker.
Click to expand...
I use the Fram XG3600, which is better built than the PH3600, to get around the poor reputation. I get them from Amazon. They aren't carried by our local generic APS.
 
I have found or ordered Baldwin filters at heavy equipment\ truck parts stores. They have a great rep for anti-drain back which was a big issue on the Ferrari 328 I had for awhile. 13$ compared to 50 for ones from the Ferrari dealer.
 
One thing I've wondered about 'anti-drainback' valves in oil filters is, although the anti-drainback valves block oil from flowing from the inlet holes, what keeps oil from flowing out through the output hole (the big one in the center)? Oil is forced through the filter material under pressure through the inlet holes through the outlet hole, but even without pressure oil can bleed through the filter material. I think the only thing that can truly prevent this is to mount the filters vertically with the holes on top.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
One thing I've wondered about 'anti-drainback' valves in oil filters is, although the anti-drainback valves block oil from flowing from the inlet holes, what keeps oil from flowing out through the output hole (the big one in the center)? Oil is forced through the filter material under pressure through the inlet holes through the outlet hole, but even without pressure oil can bleed through the filter material. I think the only thing that can truly prevent this is to mount the filters vertically with the holes on top.
Click to expand...

When the oil level in the filter gets below the outlet, it stops seeping out.
 
Hi All,

I hate to go against the tide but I still use the original filter system and find it not that difficult. I loosen the 2 long bolts with the canister in place and remove right bolt and tilt the canister/unit down before totally removing the remaining bolt. This allows me to lift the total filter and mounting out of the engine compartment with little or no mess and drop it into an empty oil pan for cleaning and refitting.

I don't think it is cleaner then a spin-on arrangement but then I only change it one a year and sometimes twice, depending on distance driven. Given that infrequency and my use of Mobile 1 15W50 synthetic, the amount of mess saved is quite low and does not justify replacing the original...to me. Although I like Keoke's idea of having a second original filter setup ready to go to save time, at my frequency of my replacements, I would probably have forgotten where I put it when ready to use .

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Try to find an adapter that has the filter hanging vertically as Randy described--it will allow you to fill the canister before mounting it to the engine and so avoid the possibility of a big slug of air going to the oil pump.
 
Getting ready to tackle this year's first oil change myself. Anyone point me to this vertical adapter that works with the Moss spin-on adapter? I can't seem to get a search to turn up what I think you're discussing, basically an elbow?
 
Keoke said:
Fortunately I also bought two cases of WIX felt filters so i am good to go
Click to expand...

Whats the part # on the Wix felt filter inserts ?
 
I'm still assembling my engine (delayed by a broken ring) so I haven't tried it, but is there a reason a person couldn't just use the elbow from the canister assembly with the spin on adapter to make it vertical? Everything appears to line up. I can't tell yet if some of the engine bolt-on extras (starter, generator, ...) might be the reason this isn't done. It seems like such a no-brainer...

Chris
 
I changed to spin on after a disastrous change over with the original system, something was wrong with the oil seal, I could not get it to sit properly for some reason and nearly lost all my oil on a test drive. Had to get a tow back from the catering management - most embarrassing.

:cheers:

Bob
 
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