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Spin-oil filter, which filters?

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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

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[FONT=&quot]I have a spin-on oil filter adaptor from Moss, part #635-840[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I’ve been using the K&N HP-2009 filter.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]What filters are others using, and why that over the K&N or vice versa.[/FONT]
235-830_1_1.jpg635-840_1.jpg
 
You're paying too much (when I bought that 'kit' from Moss, they sent a Fram; I needed it so I knew what to X-ref).

Wix 51516:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wix-51516M...d416fef560419d8551a7196cfe94f0&frcectupt=true

ps. I bought a case--lifetime supply for 2 Healeys; just installed one today--a few years ago for a bit less.

pps. There's something about having a stack of filters and cases of oil on the shelf that makes an oil change so much less tedious. Plus, this stuff doesn't get cheaper.
 
haasad said:
WIX / FRAM for me.
Click to expand...

There are a lot of recent comparison videos on YouTube showing Frams to be the same inferior quality as they were years ago. Search for "oil filter comparison".

WIXs are top-flight.

Addendum: Fram comment only for cheaper orange filter. Fram Pro Synthetic (green canister) is comparable to Wix & K&N. See: https://youtu.be/kx-NT1DEtlU
 
Yep Fram Orange. But I usually buy Wix cos I've got a DW account.
 
I use the top Fram filter. The one I have to buy online; they don't sell it in your auto part store. Costs less than K&N with comparable performance.
 
I use K & N's. The 1 inch "nut" on the end of the filter is handy and the construction is superior. IMO an oil filter is not a good place to cheap out.
 
Ah, the ol' "if something costs more it's gotta be better" argument. Wix--aka "Napa Gold" and probably others--is hardly a 'cheap'--in the quality sense--filter. DWR sells a Wix 'racing' filter for their spin-on adapters, but if you do a little research the racing type are built for greater flow at the expense of less filtering (you can't have it both ways; if a filter filters smaller particles it has to have a denser media and will restrict fluid flow, and vice versa--it's simple physics):

https://www.wixfilters.com/Speciality/WIX Filters Racing Catalog.pdf

Truth be told, for a typical street-driven--a few hundred miles a year--Healey even the crappy, cheapest Frams are adequate (I think they have a burst pressure of 300psi and, supposedly they have burst on occasion but your pressure relief valve should prevent this). My dad used the cheap Frams on everything and we never had a problem with them. The important thing, IMO, is that the anti-drainback valve seals well so you don't get a completely dry start (since the spin-ons are mounted horizontally, it still takes a second or two to fill the filter). On both my Healeys with the Wix filter I get oil pressure in 3-4 seconds on cold start which isn't bad because the gauge pick-up is at the tail end of the oiling system. On my old (2008) Mustang I used Ford-recommended Motorcraft filters I got for less than $5ea at WalMart, and that engine ran perfectly and used little oil at 135K miles. The people who've done 'studies' deconstructing oil filters have generally lauded Wix, K&N, Purolator and even the higher-end Fram filters.

AUSMHLY, does your car have a brake servo? On my BJ8 I can just barely get a Wix on and off without butting up against the Girling servo; if the K&N cans are the same size as the Wix cans the nut on the end would prevent getting the filter on/off without unbolting the servo.
 
Yes, I have the brake servo. The K&N nut does not hinder the on/off process. Been using it for years, as it was highly recommended back then. I'm just wondering if it's worth the money with similar high quality filters costing less.
 
TH--

I put the word nut in quotes for that very reason. Because it is made from a pressing the edges are not square but if you use a six-point socket it does work.
 
My BN7 came with a NAPA Gold 1516. I didn't know the origin of the filter conversion, so I chose to use a filter I knew worked with that unit.
 
RDKeysor said:
My BN7 came with a NAPA Gold 1516. I didn't know the origin of the filter conversion, so I chose to use a filter I knew worked with that unit.
Click to expand...

That's the same filter as the Wix 51516 I linked to (equivalent to Fram PH3600). Napa may have slightly different specs; no one knows for sure.
 
I run the K&Ns with a brake servo and have no problem getting the filter on and off. I'm not sure where you guys are finding those two different part numbers. I don't see either on the page that Bob linked above. After reading the Wix link the no warranty warning gave me pause.
 
I use what ever Bill Rawles has in stock,
Why - well I bought the original adapter kit from him and I am too lazy to look around.
Note - I use a rare earth magnet from a microwave oven, slapped on the end of the filter, as far as I know it works a treat ??? :chuncky:

:cheers:

Bob
 
How many here cut their used oil filters open, at least occasionally, to inspect the construction of the filter and see what's accumulating on the media and elsewhere? Note this should be done so as not to introduce any filings from the cutting process.

Wix part number is top right of image, in bold ('MP' stands for Master--i.e. 12--Pack). My adapter, when I bought it from Moss, came with a Fram PH3600, which I x-ref'd to these:

oilfilter.jpg

Edit: A good thing about this 'Master Pack;'--i.e. a case--is that the filters are individually shrink-wrapped. I just threw away a new but old Mastercraft filter my dad had on the shelf, in the box, for years because there was rust on the bare steel on the business end.
 
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