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General TR Speedometer Woes

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The attached photo shows the reset shaft across the hole.
 

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By pushing on the shaft, as though you are trying to reset the numbers, it gives you another 3/8" to work with. You'll have to use a screw driver, as your finger won't get it past the hole. Most of the time, by pushing, tilting, and flexing a bit...you can just get it out.
 
John, this is how I have managed to remove the mechanism in other speedos, but the current one is more reluctant than usually. It would be easier if the reset shaft were a little shorter, so, the temptation is to cut it and drill another hole for the extension rod.


I’ll give some tries before, but I am afraid that if there is no other trick, I must apply force, and that can be risky for the mechanism and face.


I wonder also whether in the factory they used this “brutal” method for assembling the speedo.


JesĂşs
 
Bummer...

Since we know they had to get it in somehow, we have assume they installed the mechanism first and then installed the face and needle. The more I think about it, that makes sense why they went to the trouble to print the small calibration dot at about -8kmh. Here is an idea...I am just trying to be creative now, so I'm guessing...

Perhaps you could gently pop the needle over the stop post. Then tap the case to see where the needle comes to rest naturally. This would be your calibration point when you go to reassemble the needle later. Then you can remove the needle and face, so the mechanism will come out.

To hold the aluminum drag cup while you twist the needle off, it's possible to use a pinky finger through one of the light holes in the case. It takes some feeling to find it, but I know it's possible, as I've done it.

Anyway...just a thought. The only other option would be to bend the reset shaft, which won't help when you go to reassemble everything. Or, take 1/4" or so off the end of the shaft.

Be sure to let us know what works.
 
I already managed to remove the mechanism, without removing first the face, by vehemently forcing the reset shaft into the case (and bending it a little).

Now I am having a lot of fun struggling with the odometer wheels and gears, but this belongs to another thread...


Jesus
 
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