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Something I've noticed

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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This engine although it runs well is not near the engine I had in my last Bugeye.

This one pulls well, starts well idles nicely and such. But, but.

The other Bugeye had a lightened flywheel, the good head, 1275 carbs and exhaust, .30 over bore, balanced, and a hot street cam. It thought it was somebody. And even then it started easly, idled well but took a lot of shifting and was most happy over 4K where as this one is happyest under 4k. Matter of fact I am not sure it will go to 5K seems to be above its power range. I think I remember my first Bugeye, stock, was like that as well.

Do my ramblings seem on target or do I just need more than 32 miles on the engine and some road time?
 
You haven't even really been able to open it up yet, Jack. A little patience is in order. Let it open up a bit and maybe you'll be happier.

Of course, I've driven my tired 948 for a year, and I've got the 1275 ready to start the rebuilding process.
 
Cam chain and timeing are spot on, but then maybe it needs a degree more advance, we will see.
 
Let her run in a bit first, she needs to loosen up some! But looking at the spec of your last engine it's a given that the current one will seem to be lacking a little something... Was it the crankshaft that was balanced in the other engine, or just the con-rods and pistons?
 
Hehe, the whole works.

Just checked, this one will go to 5K with more to come. Tis a bit slower reving because of the flywheel I supose.
 
Yep, weight is an engines biggest enemy when it comes to power. The lighter it is, the lower the inertia. Balancing the parts allows it to rev higher due to it being smoother: higher revs=more power. If you build them right the A-series is good for 9000rpm, I have seen one go to 11,000rpm... although shortly afterwards the pistons and valves got together for a meeting and they disagreed big time!
 
Yeah this was in a mini se7en race car, so it was built as light as possible. It ran all season without a rebuild though, so it was reliable too!
 
As far as I recall the bearings in the A series were good for 8K but the rest was up to your valve springs and such. Still even if you did hammer a valve, the a series head is a breeze to remove and put back on compared to the OHC stuff of today.
 
Maybe I'm imagining things, but....Ruby Redcar is now about 1500 miles past her engine rebuild, and I've noticed that she seems to have loosened up a bit, revs easier, just seems to like the higher speeds more than when I first got her. I remember this with my TR4, too, back in the 60s--it seemed to loosen up a lot in the break-in period. Maybe that's all Ms Agatha needs?
 
I ran it up to 5K and chickend out need more time on the engine. In fact it seemed happy to go.
 
E-Z does her, Jack!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Hehe, noop, won't do anything dumb, but if she blows I get to build another. Got a few changes in mind.
 
Jack,

My 1098 in Bugsy is the same way, lots of power up to 4500 but that's about as far as I want to go. Getting up there past that is like pulling teeth and he doesn't seem comfortable up there. Lots of low end torque from the 1098 but runs out of gas on the top end. I've got a spare 1275 that needs valves that I will be rebuilding some time in the near future and yes if the budget can afford it some extra stuff will go into the rebuild. Fore now, I'm happy that Bugsy starts right up every time I turn the key and sings some beautiful music with burnt out Cherry Bomb at 4,500 rpm in second gear.
 
Don't you know it. sounds so fine even with stock mufler.

I had forgotten how much I like second gear, hehe.
 
I remember my mum saying she could tell where I was on the subdivision when I took mine for a spin round the block, so I know mine could be heard from a mile away when I gave it death!
 
bugimike said:
E-Z does her, Jack!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
Click to expand...

yea especially when sitting on a milk crate.do you have your seat belt on Jack
 
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