Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
35thbdaytr6
Senior Member
Offline
The rack mounts in my TR6 decided to give up the ghost last time I drove it. I am leaning tward solid mounts, but I'd like to see if anyone out there has them and does not like them. Thanks.
-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Solid vs. poly vs. stock rack mounts.
- Thread starter 35thbdaytr6
- Start date
Share this page
35th, there was mention made here of the solid mounts. It will at least give you some idea, and perhaps some contact information for further discussion.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...=true#Post91077
Jeff
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...=true#Post91077
Jeff
Bob Buxbaum
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
The rack mounts in my TR6 decided to give up the ghost last time I drove it. I am leaning tward solid mounts, but I'd like to see if anyone out there has them and does not like them. Thanks.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have a TR8 driver that I also autocross and I have poly bushings EVERYWHERE and love it. I learned the value of poly bushings years ago when I built up a Civic for autocross and took that lesson to heart when I bought a GT6 that needed new rack bushings. I installed poly bushings on the GT6 and it really made a huge difference. By all means, do it. They're cheap and will dramtically improve the feel. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
The rack mounts in my TR6 decided to give up the ghost last time I drove it. I am leaning tward solid mounts, but I'd like to see if anyone out there has them and does not like them. Thanks.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have a TR8 driver that I also autocross and I have poly bushings EVERYWHERE and love it. I learned the value of poly bushings years ago when I built up a Civic for autocross and took that lesson to heart when I bought a GT6 that needed new rack bushings. I installed poly bushings on the GT6 and it really made a huge difference. By all means, do it. They're cheap and will dramtically improve the feel. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
Offline
The above mentioned thread talks about solid mounting the steering rack. I went with the solid mount (Moss, U-bolt type) and have been extremely pleased. My rack was shot and needed replacement. TRF (GoodParts) markets a bolted type that might be of superior manufacture, some have had the Moss bracket fail (not sure how). Solid mount is good.
Zero problem with increased vibration feel (as has been hinted) and discernable improvement in "road feel", a good thing.
Bill
Zero problem with increased vibration feel (as has been hinted) and discernable improvement in "road feel", a good thing.
Bill
SkinnedKnuckles
Jedi Trainee
Offline
I used a set of solid rack mounts for about a year. I personally did not like the feel of it - every little pebble could be felt, or so it seemed. Switched out to polyurethane - still nice and tight steering, but with just a little give. Far better than rubber, imo.
Stinky
Jedi Trainee
Offline
I've got the Solid mounts in my car. Like Knuckles said, It seems like I feel every pebble,...and don't hit a pot hole or major bump cuz it feels terrible. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
The upside is that the steering is incredible! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
This is the only LBC I've driven, so I don't know how much softer the Poly mounts would be, but I think if I had the choice, I'd try a set of the Poly since it sounds like they give the best of both worlds,...tight steering, and still a little forgiveness when going over the bumps.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
The upside is that the steering is incredible! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
This is the only LBC I've driven, so I don't know how much softer the Poly mounts would be, but I think if I had the choice, I'd try a set of the Poly since it sounds like they give the best of both worlds,...tight steering, and still a little forgiveness when going over the bumps.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Hello all,
I run solid aluminium rack mounts in my Triumph 2.5 P.I. saloon and am very happy with them. I do not see how you can feel bumps in the road through the rack mounting, there is no direct connection for that to happen.
PS, the front suspension is on Poly bushes and has 500lb springs so it is a stiff set up. I know it is a different suspension style than the TR 6 but bumps don't give me any trouble at all.
Alec
I run solid aluminium rack mounts in my Triumph 2.5 P.I. saloon and am very happy with them. I do not see how you can feel bumps in the road through the rack mounting, there is no direct connection for that to happen.
PS, the front suspension is on Poly bushes and has 500lb springs so it is a stiff set up. I know it is a different suspension style than the TR 6 but bumps don't give me any trouble at all.
Alec
OP
35thbdaytr6
Senior Member
Offline
Ok, looks like I'd better pull the rack before ordering parts - which seems to be the norm on this car. Where do the racks fail, the tube ends or gears? Those inner tie rod ends sure are pricy.
KenASh
Freshman Member
Offline
Hi birthday,
I just installed a set of solid rack mounts in my '67 Etype, and thus far, I'm liking them. The response appears more exacting and precise. My first thoughts were they might allow every nuance of the road to be transmitted back through the steering, but, it doese not appear to be that way.
Hope this helps!
Ken Ash...
'67 Etype 2+2
64 1/2 Mustang Convertible
2004 XJR
I just installed a set of solid rack mounts in my '67 Etype, and thus far, I'm liking them. The response appears more exacting and precise. My first thoughts were they might allow every nuance of the road to be transmitted back through the steering, but, it doese not appear to be that way.
Hope this helps!
Ken Ash...
'67 Etype 2+2
64 1/2 Mustang Convertible
2004 XJR
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
My TR4 has solid mounts. That's the way it was built and I wouldn't change it! It gives very precise steering.
On the other hand, if there is any wear or incorrect gemoetry with the steering, it will show up more dramatically with solid mounts than poly or rubber, which tend to be more forgiving.
TR4 have a two large rubber bushes in the steering column, which give some dampening effect. Solid mounts may not be as much fun on a car without something like this in the steering column (which your TR6 may or may not have, I don't know.)
I'd not bother with rubber mounts. They are shot within about a year. Poly would be more durable and, depending upon their durometer or degree of hardness, will provide more precise handling than rubber.
Polyurethane bushings can squeek. However, that shouldn't be a problem in a mounting application like we are talking about here. And, a little synthetic grease can solve a squeek, anyway.
The most likely parts to go bad in the rack are:
1. Tie-rod end outer ball joints.
2. Tie-rod end inner mounting bushing (replacements are nylon, earlier ones were aluminum and pretty durable).
3. Rack and pinion themselves, and the bushings they ride in, due to inadequate lubrication over the years.
4. Large bushing in the righthand side of the steering rack (on LH drive cars), in which the rack rides. Also usually due to inadequate lubrication.
5. Torn, cracked or missing rubber boots (which in turn allow dirt and water to get into rack and damage tie-rod ends, rack & pinion and bushings.
It's not hard to rebuild a steering rack, provided you can locate all the parts. Some items are hard to find, such as the pinion for my TR4 and the pilot bushing it rides in. The shims used to adjust tension are also hard to find, but possible to make if necessary. With all the parts, bebuild is pretty straightforward, but there is always some fiddling to get all the adjustments correct.
There is some merit to just buying a rebuilt rack, especially since the later style for TR4A through 6 is relatively easy to find professionally rebuilt at a decent price. With that type rack there isn't a lot of savings possible, by the time you buy all the parts, doing the rebuild yourself.
Alan
My TR4 has solid mounts. That's the way it was built and I wouldn't change it! It gives very precise steering.
On the other hand, if there is any wear or incorrect gemoetry with the steering, it will show up more dramatically with solid mounts than poly or rubber, which tend to be more forgiving.
TR4 have a two large rubber bushes in the steering column, which give some dampening effect. Solid mounts may not be as much fun on a car without something like this in the steering column (which your TR6 may or may not have, I don't know.)
I'd not bother with rubber mounts. They are shot within about a year. Poly would be more durable and, depending upon their durometer or degree of hardness, will provide more precise handling than rubber.
Polyurethane bushings can squeek. However, that shouldn't be a problem in a mounting application like we are talking about here. And, a little synthetic grease can solve a squeek, anyway.
The most likely parts to go bad in the rack are:
1. Tie-rod end outer ball joints.
2. Tie-rod end inner mounting bushing (replacements are nylon, earlier ones were aluminum and pretty durable).
3. Rack and pinion themselves, and the bushings they ride in, due to inadequate lubrication over the years.
4. Large bushing in the righthand side of the steering rack (on LH drive cars), in which the rack rides. Also usually due to inadequate lubrication.
5. Torn, cracked or missing rubber boots (which in turn allow dirt and water to get into rack and damage tie-rod ends, rack & pinion and bushings.
It's not hard to rebuild a steering rack, provided you can locate all the parts. Some items are hard to find, such as the pinion for my TR4 and the pilot bushing it rides in. The shims used to adjust tension are also hard to find, but possible to make if necessary. With all the parts, bebuild is pretty straightforward, but there is always some fiddling to get all the adjustments correct.
There is some merit to just buying a rebuilt rack, especially since the later style for TR4A through 6 is relatively easy to find professionally rebuilt at a decent price. With that type rack there isn't a lot of savings possible, by the time you buy all the parts, doing the rebuild yourself.
Alan
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
Offline
The Roadster Factory rebuilt my rack for my 6 and did a good job, but it took a while to get it. Actually, they rebuilt someone else's rack and I sent mine in on trade.
I wouldn't use the 2.5 quick steer rack on the market: makes steering squirrely at speed and makes parking tough because of the amount of muscle needed to turn at a stop. I tried it and returned it. Remember, steering and brakes are the most important safety items on your LBC, don't neglect either. I've seen a rack break at speed, albeit rare, it can happen.
Bill
I wouldn't use the 2.5 quick steer rack on the market: makes steering squirrely at speed and makes parking tough because of the amount of muscle needed to turn at a stop. I tried it and returned it. Remember, steering and brakes are the most important safety items on your LBC, don't neglect either. I've seen a rack break at speed, albeit rare, it can happen.
Bill