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Whitephrog
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So you've always wanted a NOS BE steering wheel...
- Thread starter Whitephrog
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Yikes, $1500 cash Amerian dollars to start. Look at his screen name. Yep, he's gonna do somoene else too.
I guess that's not bad. I once sold a set of NOS, NLA Datsun Z door panels on ebay for 3K.
I guess that's not bad. I once sold a set of NOS, NLA Datsun Z door panels on ebay for 3K.
OP
Whitephrog
Luke Skywalker
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He has a NOS Midget wheel listed at a bargain price by comparison.
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mg-midget-sprite-s...=item4153cf3c3f
And for the budget minded...
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Austin-Healey-frog...=item4153d38156
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mg-midget-sprite-s...=item4153cf3c3f
And for the budget minded...
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Austin-Healey-frog...=item4153d38156
scoutll
Jedi Knight
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This guy has been trying to sell these wheels and other things for outrageous prices for some time now. Someday, someone with more money than sense will buy something.. Not me.
I got an old wheel from mightymidget a while back and restored it with epoxy... Looks about the same as the NOS one for about 950 pounds less.. :thumbsup:
Before and after:
I got an old wheel from mightymidget a while back and restored it with epoxy... Looks about the same as the NOS one for about 950 pounds less.. :thumbsup:
Before and after:
Attachments
mightymidget
Jedi Knight
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I need to quit throwing these things away
mightymidget
Jedi Knight
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Your welcome
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Sarastro said:
That'll be 950 pounds sterling please.
scoutll
Jedi Knight
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"That'll be 950 pounds sterling please."
Good one Billy :thumbsup:
OK, as I remember..
1. Stripped and sanded the old paint and loose oxidation from the wheel. I also removed all the loose and "deteriorated" bakelite areas. These were mainly located where the spokes attach to the rim, and near the hub. I wasn't too worried about sanding, as I was not interested in retaining the molded Austin Healy wings on the spokes. I wanted to smooth off and rouond out the spokes a bit in order to make the wheel look as close to a Midget wheel as possible.
2. After the wheel was stripped, I found there were a multitude of tiny cracks
all around the inside and outside of the wheel rim. I removed all loose material from bad areas and used a saw and file to cut or notch all the cracks down to good solid material so they would hold the filler material.
3. After removing all loose material from the worst area (described in #1 above), I treated any exposed steel with rust converter.
4. After the rust converter was well dried, I used a two part epoxy filler to fill in all the prepared cracks and damaged areas. When it was almost dry, I rough sanded it level with the surrounding bakelite, then fine sanded it with 600 and 1200 grit wet/dry until everything was smooth and level. On the wheel rim, I only used 1200 wet/dry and 0000 steel wool to prevent the molded finger grips ect from being damaged. I repeated with the filler until all areas were level and everything was smooth.
5. Once I had the wheel repaired and the spokes were shaped the way I wanted them, I painted the whole thing with a filler/primer and wetsanded with 1200 grit. Then applied three coats of semi gloss black "plastic" paint from a spraycan
Some pictures of filled in areas during the work on the spokes. I cant find any pictures of the work n the rim, but there were many tiny hairline cracks that kad to be cut and filled.
Good one Billy :thumbsup:
OK, as I remember..
1. Stripped and sanded the old paint and loose oxidation from the wheel. I also removed all the loose and "deteriorated" bakelite areas. These were mainly located where the spokes attach to the rim, and near the hub. I wasn't too worried about sanding, as I was not interested in retaining the molded Austin Healy wings on the spokes. I wanted to smooth off and rouond out the spokes a bit in order to make the wheel look as close to a Midget wheel as possible.
2. After the wheel was stripped, I found there were a multitude of tiny cracks
all around the inside and outside of the wheel rim. I removed all loose material from bad areas and used a saw and file to cut or notch all the cracks down to good solid material so they would hold the filler material.
3. After removing all loose material from the worst area (described in #1 above), I treated any exposed steel with rust converter.
4. After the rust converter was well dried, I used a two part epoxy filler to fill in all the prepared cracks and damaged areas. When it was almost dry, I rough sanded it level with the surrounding bakelite, then fine sanded it with 600 and 1200 grit wet/dry until everything was smooth and level. On the wheel rim, I only used 1200 wet/dry and 0000 steel wool to prevent the molded finger grips ect from being damaged. I repeated with the filler until all areas were level and everything was smooth.
5. Once I had the wheel repaired and the spokes were shaped the way I wanted them, I painted the whole thing with a filler/primer and wetsanded with 1200 grit. Then applied three coats of semi gloss black "plastic" paint from a spraycan
Some pictures of filled in areas during the work on the spokes. I cant find any pictures of the work n the rim, but there were many tiny hairline cracks that kad to be cut and filled.
Attachments
scoutll
Jedi Knight
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A couple more pictures showing the back of the spokes. this area and the left hand spoke to rim junctin had the most material removed and filled. Caused by cracks and water causing the inner steel to rust and swell.
There is also a picture of the finished wheel with center push. I took that apart and stripped/repainted it too. Not the original red/gold lettering. I like the Red/black better as it matches the colors of the car.
There is also a picture of the finished wheel with center push. I took that apart and stripped/repainted it too. Not the original red/gold lettering. I like the Red/black better as it matches the colors of the car.
Attachments
mightymidget
Jedi Knight
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Nice job..very nice
