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jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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So much for the VB clutch kit
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tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Pressure plate looks the same - clutch disc looks different.
Let's call them Monday & see what they say - unfortunately, they don't have any tech folks...maybe now we know the price difference between them & Moss!
Let's call them Monday & see what they say - unfortunately, they don't have any tech folks...maybe now we know the price difference between them & Moss!
middleagecrazy
Senior Member
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Jack
At least you figured this out early. I installed mine and it lasted for two months about three thousand miles. The release bearing was shot. The carbon ring in it disintegrated. I wound up putting the original pressure plate back in and another release bearing. When we got the replacement unit out we measured it and the release bearing surface on the new presure plate was about a qurater inch further from the flywheel than the original. Thus haveing the release bearing jammed against the presure plate full time.
At least you figured this out early. I installed mine and it lasted for two months about three thousand miles. The release bearing was shot. The carbon ring in it disintegrated. I wound up putting the original pressure plate back in and another release bearing. When we got the replacement unit out we measured it and the release bearing surface on the new presure plate was about a qurater inch further from the flywheel than the original. Thus haveing the release bearing jammed against the presure plate full time.
OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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Just rechecked my oil pressure guage with air. It is spot on if my compressor guage is correct and they are new.
So, where oh where did the oil go. heh
Engine is now upside down awaiting removal of the pan so I can check bearings with a bit of plastiguage. Oh yea also want to check the oil pickup, ie is it makeing a good connection. It best be, screwed that up one time long ago and have always checked it several times before trusting it.
So, where oh where did the oil go. heh
Engine is now upside down awaiting removal of the pan so I can check bearings with a bit of plastiguage. Oh yea also want to check the oil pickup, ie is it makeing a good connection. It best be, screwed that up one time long ago and have always checked it several times before trusting it.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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Back to the clutch... what was the VB part number? What is the manufacturer and their part #?
I think the 948/1098 and 1275 clutches were different. Somebody here can shed some light?
I think the 948/1098 and 1275 clutches were different. Somebody here can shed some light?
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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We ordered & received what VB listed as correct for Jack's car - 4-004.
My only concern is that tomorrow when I call them, they'll not have a clue...unlike Moss, VB does not have technical experts on staff...I'm probably gonna have to eat this one & we'll order the correct one from Moss if VB can't solve it.
My only concern is that tomorrow when I call them, they'll not have a clue...unlike Moss, VB does not have technical experts on staff...I'm probably gonna have to eat this one & we'll order the correct one from Moss if VB can't solve it.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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I'm wondering if they pulled the wrong number or stuck the wrong number on the box. Even if they are not technical they should be able to cross reference their supplier/manufacturer part numbers with their own.
mccalebr
Jedi Knight
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Probably shouldn't stick my nose in here, BUT...
Tony, it seems to me that a vendor that sells a part for a specific application and the part doesn't fit/work should assume the loss; in the grand scheme of things, that seems to be the most effective way of weeding out defective parts.
While it is magnanimous and commendable of you to "make it right", that may alleviate the immediate financial setback for Jack, transferring it to you, but will not provide relief for others who have not yet placed their order (for said defective part).
Certainly consciencious vendors, especially those who deem it economical to NOT employ technical experts, should be willing to take it up with the manufacturers on behalf of their customers.
My .02...
Ray
Tony, it seems to me that a vendor that sells a part for a specific application and the part doesn't fit/work should assume the loss; in the grand scheme of things, that seems to be the most effective way of weeding out defective parts.
While it is magnanimous and commendable of you to "make it right", that may alleviate the immediate financial setback for Jack, transferring it to you, but will not provide relief for others who have not yet placed their order (for said defective part).
Certainly consciencious vendors, especially those who deem it economical to NOT employ technical experts, should be willing to take it up with the manufacturers on behalf of their customers.
My .02...
Ray
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Tony, it seems to me that a vendor that sells a part for a specific application and the part doesn't fit/work should assume the loss; in the grand scheme of things, that seems to be the most effective way of weeding out defective parts.[/QUOTE]
Yep & I'm going for that - they've always been good to work with on returning items....I just don't know if we want to wait a wek or so for them to research it...I'm probably gonna tell them the problem, see if I can return it & order one from Moss (about $100 more expensive) to drop ship directly to Jack so he gets it by Wednesday or so.
Yep & I'm going for that - they've always been good to work with on returning items....I just don't know if we want to wait a wek or so for them to research it...I'm probably gonna tell them the problem, see if I can return it & order one from Moss (about $100 more expensive) to drop ship directly to Jack so he gets it by Wednesday or so.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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We will solve it! Stand by your phone tomorrow morning, Jack, so you can tell me which way to go.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Jack - package it up & return to me ASAP - enclose the photo of your old clutch next to it...they're gonna do a refund....I'll telephone you.
"""""""""""It is 1/4 inch thiner than the orginal. Also not how the center part of the disk is shorter than the orginal and how the center is thicker.
With a thiner unit how can it work? It binds on something, have not figured that out yet?
What the heck, over.
Pressure plate is 1/4 inch thiner. Does not show up well in the pic, sorry. """"""""""""""""""
You may ..(or may not) have the correct parts....orbe ding it wrong.
Jack....If the clutch cover assembly is thinner or thicker by 1/4 inch that SHOULD be no problem. OR...if the shoe is thinner or thicker that also should be no problem. The shoe is the part inside the cover that is solid and contacts the clutch disc.
The center part of the disc is called the hub. The hub, in your case is riveted to the disc center and the lining is riveted to the center. The thickness of the splined area in the disc hub CAN be shorter or longer. It just cant be so long that it bumps into the flywheel.
1. Lay the disc on the p.p. with the disc rite side up.
There is a front and a back on the disc!!!
The outside diameter of the disc and the o.d. of the shoe should be the same...+ - .050" or so. The inside diameter of the disc might be smaller than the I.D. of the shoe. There should be clearance for the hub inside the i.d. of the shoe. Then ...put the disc up to the flywheel. The hub assembly shoud clear the recess in the flywheel and the flywheel bolts. Determining then that the parts fit, put the disc and pp on the wheel and tighten the 6 screws. The pp should pull down evenly and the throw out bearing pad should move inward(forward) as you tighten the pp. Meaure the height...from the to bearing face to some dimension forward and compare it with the original. It should be in the approxamate location of the unit you took off....or maybe a little rearward as much as 1/4". Then using a NEW t.o. bearing screw trhe trans to the motor and the throwout fork should be back of a perpendicular line thru the front to rear of the motor a bit. Rotate the motor BY HAND and make sure you have clearance in the bellhousing to the pp.
""think the 948/1098 and 1275 clutches were different. Somebody here can shed some light? """""""
No light....just darkness as in Lucas.
stock 1098cc disc is 7 3/8" dia.
PP is a six screw 7 3/8" shoe, cover is 9 3/8 o.d. with a 8 3/4" bolt circle. Borg and Beck style six spring three lever.
1275 cc disc is 6 1/4" dia.
PP is a six screw 61/4" shoe, cover o.d. is scalloped and has a AP style bellville washer.
With a thiner unit how can it work? It binds on something, have not figured that out yet?
What the heck, over.
Pressure plate is 1/4 inch thiner. Does not show up well in the pic, sorry. """"""""""""""""""
You may ..(or may not) have the correct parts....orbe ding it wrong.
Jack....If the clutch cover assembly is thinner or thicker by 1/4 inch that SHOULD be no problem. OR...if the shoe is thinner or thicker that also should be no problem. The shoe is the part inside the cover that is solid and contacts the clutch disc.
The center part of the disc is called the hub. The hub, in your case is riveted to the disc center and the lining is riveted to the center. The thickness of the splined area in the disc hub CAN be shorter or longer. It just cant be so long that it bumps into the flywheel.
1. Lay the disc on the p.p. with the disc rite side up.
There is a front and a back on the disc!!!
The outside diameter of the disc and the o.d. of the shoe should be the same...+ - .050" or so. The inside diameter of the disc might be smaller than the I.D. of the shoe. There should be clearance for the hub inside the i.d. of the shoe. Then ...put the disc up to the flywheel. The hub assembly shoud clear the recess in the flywheel and the flywheel bolts. Determining then that the parts fit, put the disc and pp on the wheel and tighten the 6 screws. The pp should pull down evenly and the throw out bearing pad should move inward(forward) as you tighten the pp. Meaure the height...from the to bearing face to some dimension forward and compare it with the original. It should be in the approxamate location of the unit you took off....or maybe a little rearward as much as 1/4". Then using a NEW t.o. bearing screw trhe trans to the motor and the throwout fork should be back of a perpendicular line thru the front to rear of the motor a bit. Rotate the motor BY HAND and make sure you have clearance in the bellhousing to the pp.
""think the 948/1098 and 1275 clutches were different. Somebody here can shed some light? """""""
No light....just darkness as in Lucas.
stock 1098cc disc is 7 3/8" dia.
PP is a six screw 7 3/8" shoe, cover is 9 3/8 o.d. with a 8 3/4" bolt circle. Borg and Beck style six spring three lever.
1275 cc disc is 6 1/4" dia.
PP is a six screw 61/4" shoe, cover o.d. is scalloped and has a AP style bellville washer.
john_j
Jedi Trainee
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""think the 948/1098 and 1275 clutches were different. Somebody here can shed some light? """""""
Depends which book I look in, but they all agree that 948, 1098 and 1275 are different.
Some of them show the 948 and early 1098 (10CG) as being the same with late 1098 (10CC) different.
948 have coil springs, 1275 is diaphram, 1098 might be one or the other, depending which book I'm looking at, that may be 'cos 10CC and 10 CG were different.
Depends which book I look in, but they all agree that 948, 1098 and 1275 are different.
Some of them show the 948 and early 1098 (10CG) as being the same with late 1098 (10CC) different.
948 have coil springs, 1275 is diaphram, 1098 might be one or the other, depending which book I'm looking at, that may be 'cos 10CC and 10 CG were different.