• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

So good - and then so bad, so quickly

RobWarren said:
Hi all,
a.. The rear oil flinger/scroll on the end of the crank has been running so close to the engine block that it has overheated and this is the cause of the failure of #6 big end bearing, ---- the scroll type oil flinger will be replaced with a Holden type rear main oil seal using a neoprene seal.

c.. The cylinder head was inspected and it was found that there are 5 bent inlet valves and 3 bent exhaust valves, these will be replaced and 12 new valve stem oil seals will be fitted as required. Bob
Hi Bob,
a.. is possible, especially if the mains were line bored & or proper attention was not paid to the thrower clearances. The suggested remedy should cure the problem.

c.. could be due to serious over revving the engine or more likely, the valve stem to guide clearance was too tight. I don't know which you have but bronze guides require more stem clearance than do iron guides. If in an iron cylinder head, I personally would use .002" clearance on iron guides & .003" clearance on bronze guides.
D
 
Great stuff, thanks guys. Keep it coming too!

I'm sure I should probably just search the forums for a thread on this topic, but once the engine is re-assembled, what's the recommended procedure for checking everything is running well?
 
Hello again Rob Warren.

Did you ever try "The Healey Factory" ?

bundyrum
 
Rob,
I used a Chev 350 oil slinger on my 100, was not a lot of machining required, $7/8K sounds a bit over the top for a dismantle,rebuild with a few valves and some o/size shells!
 
G'Day Bundy.

I did try the healey factory but as I was unable to get the car to them the best they could do was offer some advice.

Helpful blokes down there actually...and pointed me towards some decent reference material to help find out what might be the cause.
 
i have no idea about either of the shops you mention (I'm in England) but my strong advice is to find a really proper really specialist healey engine rebuilder and pay them what it takes. I had a very expensive trip round various engineering and classic car shops (including a general Healey restorer) before my engine finally came good in the hands of a real expert. Healey engines are 50 years old. a lot has happened to them. you can't 'follow the book'. you have to know exactly what you're doing. spend a lot now or spend a load later.....
 
Back
Top