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Well I am looking for advice on what to do with the metal sleeves that go on the lower wishbone on the backside where the nylon bushing rides. One of them came right off, but the other three are stuck pretty well. I heated it up and tried to turn it with a pipe wrench, but it would not budge. I seem to remember a post where someone had a very difficult time with those. I had a real good grip with a nice pipe wrench and basically stop pulling because I thought something was going to break or tear up so badly that I would be fixing that next. I am thinking about leaving the old ones on and calling it good. I will clean up the scarring done by the pipe wrench and leave it. However, if someone has figured out a way to cut them or pry them off I would appreciate hearing about the method.
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TR2/3/3A sleeves that go on the lower wishbone
- Thread starter sp53
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CJD
Yoda
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I've used a couple ways.
One is to use a chisel and hammer to split the bushing...being carefully to not cut into the shaft. The new bushing will cover any minor shaft scarring, but you don't want to hurt it too badly.
Second, and my favorite, is to use a grinder to thin the bushing, and then a chisel to split it. This method is faster, but you have to excercise care.
One is to use a chisel and hammer to split the bushing...being carefully to not cut into the shaft. The new bushing will cover any minor shaft scarring, but you don't want to hurt it too badly.
Second, and my favorite, is to use a grinder to thin the bushing, and then a chisel to split it. This method is faster, but you have to excercise care.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I used a variation of the second method : A Dremel with a cutoff blade. Cut a slot along the length of the bushing (but not quite all the way through and not too close to the upright), then a chisel and BFH to break it the rest of the way.
Another technique you didn't mention is to soak it in PB Blaster or Kroil for an extended period (like weeks), mixed with occasional pounding (the vibration helps the penetration process) and trying to get it off.
Another technique you didn't mention is to soak it in PB Blaster or Kroil for an extended period (like weeks), mixed with occasional pounding (the vibration helps the penetration process) and trying to get it off.
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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The first method that I read about was to hit the sleeve with a chisel at the edge where it meets the upright. But it did not work for me in most cases. Ultimately I was able to use heat along with a solvent like PB blaster and then a pipe wrench. Put the heat to it and then try squirting some solvent into the joint. Do this few times and then use the pipe wrench. But if that does not work the dremel tool sounds like a next choice.
Charley
Charley
Got them off – on the first one I chiseled a ditch to see how deep to grind them then after the ditch, I ground that off and dug another ditch and ground that off. When I went back to chiseling, it moved and I wiggled and pipe wrenched it off. The next one I ground down and using the flat spot from the grinding I chiseled the flat spot down and it moved. Anyway if you look at the picture you can see that on the frame there is a damaged spot from someone hitting it with a hammer. The spot will not show much with the engine in, but I would like to fix the appearance. There is a piece on the bottom of the brace, so pounding it out from the back will not work. I can either just leave it or bondo it up, but if someone has a clever idea that would be nice. I have another frame where that piece is perfect and the rest of the frame trash so that is an option, but again I am perhaps over doing it.
