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Shelley Jack for AH 3000

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I'll definitely try mine out when it arrives and if it's a PITA, I'll buy one of the Pro Lift jacks from that eBayer. Although the eBay listing doesn't mention 'gear reduction', the picture shows it and I'll take your word for it that it's a lot easier to use. Thanks for the recommendation!
 
The 1.5-ton jack I ordered is from Harbor Freight. $26 incl. freight. We'll see how ell it works soon as it was already shipped...
 
If you are just looking for a jack to keep in the car for flats, go to your local junk yard tell them that you need a small jack. They let me walk around, I got 3 jacks, handle bags, like new, mostly Toyota cars, paid $20.00 for all three. Picked out what I wanted. Junk yards don't want jacks.
 
I've a perfectly good honda scissor jack that stores 4" closed. You're welcome to it for the price of shipping. It's not concours, but it'll work on actual flat tires.
 
I carry the garage floor jack in the car, much easier and much safer though it does take up more space which we aren't overly blessed with. I haven't had to use it in three years on my own car but have helped at least three other classic owners whose model correct jacks were too difficult or heavy for them to use when they had a complete flat. Most of us are getting on a bit and I for one can't easily manage a scissor jack any more. Look at the business end of them, how do you lodge that safely under your car. small trolley jack and a bit of 4 x 2 does it for me.

Ian
 
Good points. Obviously, jacking on a hard, flat--preferably concrete--surface with a good floor jack is the best way short of a lift. Even that, however, is not without some risk (theoretically, even a lift has some risk). Also, the jacking situation is only as good as the surface you're jacking on (heh). So, we're back to our concept of 'risk management.' I take a 4K mile road trip every year, and don't shy away from any road except dirt and gravel, no matter how far from help, so I have to be prepared for any eventuality. The boot is packed with spare tire, tool box, spare parts, a car cover, extra oil, brake fluid, flares, towels, toilet paper, paper towels, a tow strap, jumper cables, a spare inner tube, rope, bungie cords, laptop computer, portable compressor, first aid kit, collapsible water carrier, Bentley shop manual and a box of cigars. No room for a floor jack, and the Shelley jack--I have a complete one, special for forum members at only $50,000--is pretty much useless.

That leaves a scissor jack as the best option for me. I bought a Torin 'Big Red' jack for the Healey, and put the geared jack in my Mustang. The Torin is not geared, like most scissor jacks these days, but I thought hey, a Healey is a light car, what could be a problem. Well, when my fuel pump started acting up in the middle of the Nevada desert outside Ely I pulled over to swap in the spare (which had some issues too, but that's another post). I quickly found out that although the Torin could lift the car--at least a portion of it--it was much more difficult than the geared scissor jack. Add to that the sloped, dirty, gravelly condition of the road's shoulder and I felt very nervous cranking really hard on the handle whilst the jack twisted and moved under the car. The geared scissor jack--sitting comfortably in the boot of my Mustang 500 miles away--worked much better, with much less effort and less potential for twisting its way out from under the car (it's also of more robust construction).

When I got home I located and bought another geared scissor jack, different brand but all but identical to the older one (think just the brand name and some other minor things changed). My original geared jack is now back in it's rightful place. Anyone want an almost-new, Torin 'Big Red' scissor jack? I'll throw it in with the Shelley.
 
Hey all,
Won't help out for all 3000's, but I have an extra Shelley LJ21 available that is correct for BN2's, BN4's, BN6's and BT7 to car 10565 and BN7's to car 10610. It has production date on it of 60 and works perfectly. Recently painted gloss black and also have a tire tool with the correct 7/16 square socket head on it.This is not the two piece tool but an older offset tool that will allow you to raise and lower the jack. Simply want to get out what I have in it - $200 plus shipping. Pictures available, just PM me.
Regards,
Mike
 
The part is probably missing because it broke the first time it was used. the one that came my my BT7 broke early on. The casting broke where the handle goes in. If you want one for show OK, but they are worthless for use. Get scissor a jack.
 
In addition to packing a scissors jack, I also carry a 12" long piece of 4" x 4" in the boot. If you should ever have a flat while on the road, you will quickly remember how close to the ground the bottom of the frame is on your Healey. No matter what kind of jack you have, it will be no good on the side of the road unless you can get it under the frame. Just drive the flat tire up on the 4" x 4" and you should get enough clearance to get the jack underneath the frame. I also carry a smallish piece of plywood to put under the jack to keep it from sinking into the soft muck that can be found on the shoulders of some 2ndary roads around here.
As other have said, the original jack is not very good but it is also dangerous. I remember using it to change a flat or two back in the 70s and once it suddenly gave way and the car dropped down to the top of the jack base all of a sudden. No injury or damage but I do remember it happening so I would not waste any time thinking about getting one unless you are interested in concourse events.
Ed
 
I carry a scissors jack from a Chrysler '80s/'90s K-car in the boot of my BJ8. It collapses to just 4" high, so it easily slips under the car even with a flat tire. I also carry a piece of 2 x 4 to use between the jack and the jacking point. Jacking a front tire requires putting the jack under the spring plate with the wood in between. For a rear tire, the projection of the frame behind the rear wheel is a good jacking point.
 
I keep a scissors jack (Northern Tool: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&Ntt=scissors+jack ) in the trunk, and a Shelley jack on a shelf in a cabinet in the garage, but most importantly, I keep a AAA card in my wallet.

Not much chance I'll be out in the Healey where there's no cell phone service, so I think I have every emergency situation covered (and no spare parts rattling around in the trunk) by just keeping our AAA membership up to date.
 
EV2239 said:
This might be of interest:

https://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm

Just a thought but is it possible to change the fuel pump through the rear seat panel as you can the shocks.
Click to expand...

Well, I can do it with my BJ8 because I got rid of the rear seat pan studs and use screws. However, it's really cramped trying to work through the seat pan hole. It would be much easier to change the pump by removing the right rear wheel first. But I don't have to do that out on the road, either, since I have two fuel pumps installed. I needed to switch to the backup this morning, as a matter of fact, when the primary SU didn't want to work as I was driving to another city.
 
Since the subject of fuel pumps has come up, I have a question: Other than the clicks it makes when the pump first starts up after the ignition is turned on, should my pump make a rhythmic ticking sound every few seconds while underway?
 
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