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Sheared Bolt - Sway Bar Bush Strap to Chassis
- Thread starter pkmh
- Start date
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pkmh, glad you succeeded. But METRIC?... Good going none the less!
richberman
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Elrey,
Metric....sounds like the bolts on my toyota trans...and new Trophy exhaust. Now I'll have to carry a set of metric tools in the boot too.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110087349657726745747/57AustinHealey#5715779128651097538
rich
Metric....sounds like the bolts on my toyota trans...and new Trophy exhaust. Now I'll have to carry a set of metric tools in the boot too.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110087349657726745747/57AustinHealey#5715779128651097538
rich
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
Left hand (spiral) drill bits: best easy-outs there are. If they bite into the stub and back it out (friction creates heat) you're home free. If they don't, you still wind up back to the tap-drill size, and can run a tap to restore the original threads.
OP
pkmh
Jedi Warrior
Offline
My bad about the metric. Sorry!
I could or in fact, I will, modify the bolt head to match my old one. There is even a method I could use to salvage the coding on the head of the old and fix to the new.
Gives me a chance to throw everyone off once in a while and I certainly have no need or desire to carry an extra tool kit in the car.
Paul
I could or in fact, I will, modify the bolt head to match my old one. There is even a method I could use to salvage the coding on the head of the old and fix to the new.
Gives me a chance to throw everyone off once in a while and I certainly have no need or desire to carry an extra tool kit in the car.
Paul
Legal Bill
Jedi Knight
Offline
FWIW, I don't bother to even try to get them our with an easy out. I just keep drilling the hole bigger and bigger until the remaining wall of the bolt is so thin I can fold it in on itself like foil.
OP
pkmh
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Finally posting photos as I wanted to and mentioned from my earlier post.
First photo shows the pilot mark I made before drilling in succession using various bits as also shown.
One photo not shown is how I decided to cut (actually grind)into not one, but two sides including the screwthreads. After all that plus applying flame and ice, the sheared remains of the stud still wouldn't come loose. That's when I drilled a 10mm opening (that's right, you heard me).
The last photo shows the modified 10mm hex bolt [head] compared to the standard 5/16" on the right. Both hex head dimensions are the same so only one tool kit is still needed (ha, ha).
Maybe one day I'll go back and cut out a section of the chassis flange like Randy Forbes displayed, but only if experiencing the same amount of corrosion.
But it seems my chassis is holding up (sorry, I had to clean and paint over--couldn't take seeing all that grime anymore).
First photo shows the pilot mark I made before drilling in succession using various bits as also shown.
One photo not shown is how I decided to cut (actually grind)into not one, but two sides including the screwthreads. After all that plus applying flame and ice, the sheared remains of the stud still wouldn't come loose. That's when I drilled a 10mm opening (that's right, you heard me).
The last photo shows the modified 10mm hex bolt [head] compared to the standard 5/16" on the right. Both hex head dimensions are the same so only one tool kit is still needed (ha, ha).
Maybe one day I'll go back and cut out a section of the chassis flange like Randy Forbes displayed, but only if experiencing the same amount of corrosion.
But it seems my chassis is holding up (sorry, I had to clean and paint over--couldn't take seeing all that grime anymore).