My experience with a pickle fork was that it tore the silentbloc in half rather than loosening the taper joint. That might be OK, since you are probably going to replace it anyway. But I now use a tool like this
Some have reported that it wouldn't fit on their cars, but it works for me. In fact, I've used it to separate that exact joint twice in the past year, once to replace the silentblocs on the TR3 and once to disassemble the wrecked TR3A.
Note that the curved part of the jaw is what should press against the end of the stud. Using the pointed tip may result in breaking the tool. If the stud isn't long enough to contact the jaw, insert something as a spacer.
I was actually going to take a picture of it removing a rear shock link from the shock arm yesterday, but the joint literally fell apart while I was looking for the camera! I'll try again in the next few days.