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Several weeks ago I had asked if there was a way to determine the speed at which my 2000 Mazda gets the highest mpg. One member here suggested a tool called the ScanGauge.
www.scangauge.com
After some due diligence, and noting the company has a 30 day return policy, I bought a ScanGauge-II for $159 using PayPal. ScanGauge is described as working on cars made from 1996 onward (cars having an OBD2 system).
Basically, ScanGauge gives you real-time readings from the OBD sensors in your car.
I got an immediate purchase confirmation email, followed next day by an email saying "due to unexpected demand following ScanGauge stories on CNN and MSNBC" I should expect a one week delay before shipping. But the ScanGauge arrive USPS priority mail just two days after I placed the order.
Well packed for mailing, professional carton, including a five foot connector cable (OBD to RJ11). I followed directions, plugging RJ11 into back of ScanGauge, other end into OBD port under driver side dash. Used the supplied Velcro tabs to mount the ScanGauge in easy view. Key on, engine start, gauge comes to life within 10 seconds.
Using the default settings, I first saw the LCD screen showing four "gauges" - RPM, MPH, MPG, VLT. RPM showed 1250, gradually lowering to 750 as the engine warmed from the cold start. Matched the dash tach, so I figured at least part of the ScanGauge was working.
MPH showed 0, MPG showed 0, VLT showed 14.5 (battery voltage).
I moved down the driveway, watching MPH mirror the speedometer, and MPG moving from 0 to 4.5, then 6, then gradually upward as I hit the two lane blacktop. Interesting to see MPG move higher as speed in top gear is increased on a straight patch, then drop as throttle is opened. Obviously, going downhill, MPG reads extremely high, up to 999, until uphill begins. This is all averaged for a TRIP reading, showing average MPG for a given time period.
MPG (and other readings) change about every two seconds, showing (I assume) a calculated MPG from distance travelled and fuel flow.
"Gauges" (LCD readouts of OBD system sensors) provided:
LP - fuel system loop
CPM - cost per mile
FIA - intake air temp
FWT - water temp
FPR - fuel pressure
GPH - gallons per hour
IGN - ignition timing
LOD - engine loading (percentage generated of the maximum power available)
MPG
MPH
MAP - manifold absolute pressure
RPM
TPS - throttle position
VLT - battery voltage
Note that all "USA" readings (gallons, miles, fahrenheit, etc.) can be switched to Continental (liters, km, centigrade, etc.). System also scans, records and clears OBD codes.
For the next week or two I played around with the system, seeing what was available and how to use it. First off, I realized that here in southern New England, there's just about *no way* to determine actual MPG based on a specific speed above ca. 50, as the Interstates are so busy and full of hills you just can't hold a steady speed on a straight-away. And trying to average the "out and return" MPG doesn't work, as the hills and exits for the "out trip" don't match the hills and exits for the "return trip"; similar exits may be a mile apart.
However, I was really surprised that the Mazda gets such high MPG on the daily 40 mile round trips, using the two-lane black top at an average speed of 40mph. Using different routes to the same destination, I found that a slightly longer trip in miles and time actually uses less fuel due to fewer hills and valleys. And a trip using only two lane blacktop averaging 40mph uses less fuel (and fewer dollars!) than the same trip using Interstate at higher speeds. MPG on my typical 40 mile round trip now, 48mpg. Way more than I got before when I was "driving blind" and hadn't analyzed the route choices.
Despite hitting some traffic lights on the same trip on various days, I've found that the Interstate saves *some* time, but sure uses more fuel for the same point-to-point done on two-lane blacktops.
Long story short, I've now used the ScanGauge to determine the least expensive "route" to follow for the trips I do every day/week. In the 30 days I've had it, I've figured out how to save around $80/month using MPG and COST gauges. COST is a calculated reading which takes the fuel cost per gallon you enter (in my case, $4.09), your MPG, and distance travelled, and shows the actual cost for each trip you make. Trip cost is recorded on a TRIP basis (which can be RESET at any time), a TODAY basis (last 24 hours), or a PREVIOUS DAY basis.
Use can download the entire 36-page ScanGauge handbook at:
https://scangauge.com/support/pdfs/SGMan5_0.pdf
Most of you guys probably already use something like this. But several years ago I was looking for a way to do this, and the "box" cost well over $1000. Times have changed. And so have fuel prices.
Tom
www.scangauge.com
After some due diligence, and noting the company has a 30 day return policy, I bought a ScanGauge-II for $159 using PayPal. ScanGauge is described as working on cars made from 1996 onward (cars having an OBD2 system).
Basically, ScanGauge gives you real-time readings from the OBD sensors in your car.
I got an immediate purchase confirmation email, followed next day by an email saying "due to unexpected demand following ScanGauge stories on CNN and MSNBC" I should expect a one week delay before shipping. But the ScanGauge arrive USPS priority mail just two days after I placed the order.
Well packed for mailing, professional carton, including a five foot connector cable (OBD to RJ11). I followed directions, plugging RJ11 into back of ScanGauge, other end into OBD port under driver side dash. Used the supplied Velcro tabs to mount the ScanGauge in easy view. Key on, engine start, gauge comes to life within 10 seconds.
Using the default settings, I first saw the LCD screen showing four "gauges" - RPM, MPH, MPG, VLT. RPM showed 1250, gradually lowering to 750 as the engine warmed from the cold start. Matched the dash tach, so I figured at least part of the ScanGauge was working.
MPH showed 0, MPG showed 0, VLT showed 14.5 (battery voltage).
I moved down the driveway, watching MPH mirror the speedometer, and MPG moving from 0 to 4.5, then 6, then gradually upward as I hit the two lane blacktop. Interesting to see MPG move higher as speed in top gear is increased on a straight patch, then drop as throttle is opened. Obviously, going downhill, MPG reads extremely high, up to 999, until uphill begins. This is all averaged for a TRIP reading, showing average MPG for a given time period.
MPG (and other readings) change about every two seconds, showing (I assume) a calculated MPG from distance travelled and fuel flow.
"Gauges" (LCD readouts of OBD system sensors) provided:
LP - fuel system loop
CPM - cost per mile
FIA - intake air temp
FWT - water temp
FPR - fuel pressure
GPH - gallons per hour
IGN - ignition timing
LOD - engine loading (percentage generated of the maximum power available)
MPG
MPH
MAP - manifold absolute pressure
RPM
TPS - throttle position
VLT - battery voltage
Note that all "USA" readings (gallons, miles, fahrenheit, etc.) can be switched to Continental (liters, km, centigrade, etc.). System also scans, records and clears OBD codes.
For the next week or two I played around with the system, seeing what was available and how to use it. First off, I realized that here in southern New England, there's just about *no way* to determine actual MPG based on a specific speed above ca. 50, as the Interstates are so busy and full of hills you just can't hold a steady speed on a straight-away. And trying to average the "out and return" MPG doesn't work, as the hills and exits for the "out trip" don't match the hills and exits for the "return trip"; similar exits may be a mile apart.
However, I was really surprised that the Mazda gets such high MPG on the daily 40 mile round trips, using the two-lane black top at an average speed of 40mph. Using different routes to the same destination, I found that a slightly longer trip in miles and time actually uses less fuel due to fewer hills and valleys. And a trip using only two lane blacktop averaging 40mph uses less fuel (and fewer dollars!) than the same trip using Interstate at higher speeds. MPG on my typical 40 mile round trip now, 48mpg. Way more than I got before when I was "driving blind" and hadn't analyzed the route choices.
Despite hitting some traffic lights on the same trip on various days, I've found that the Interstate saves *some* time, but sure uses more fuel for the same point-to-point done on two-lane blacktops.
Long story short, I've now used the ScanGauge to determine the least expensive "route" to follow for the trips I do every day/week. In the 30 days I've had it, I've figured out how to save around $80/month using MPG and COST gauges. COST is a calculated reading which takes the fuel cost per gallon you enter (in my case, $4.09), your MPG, and distance travelled, and shows the actual cost for each trip you make. Trip cost is recorded on a TRIP basis (which can be RESET at any time), a TODAY basis (last 24 hours), or a PREVIOUS DAY basis.
Use can download the entire 36-page ScanGauge handbook at:
https://scangauge.com/support/pdfs/SGMan5_0.pdf
Most of you guys probably already use something like this. But several years ago I was looking for a way to do this, and the "box" cost well over $1000. Times have changed. And so have fuel prices.
Tom
