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Sat morning fuel leak test

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Rear carb leaked from the bottom of the float chamber where is attaches to carb body. A unique bolt and two rubber thingees and one metal washer there, the bolt will only allow you to tighten so much as it has a lip to prevent it going in further.

Fix, double up on the metal washer, alows you to get a bit more on the bolt and squeeze those rubber seals a bit more.

There is no excuse for leaks except from the rear of the engine and that can not be helped if mains are undersize.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Rear carb leaked from the bottom of the float chamber where is attaches to carb body. A unique bolt and two rubber thingees and one metal washer there, the bolt will only allow you to tighten so much as it has a lip to prevent it going in further. [ QUOTE ]


Jack, thats a dry portion of the carb, it shouldn't leak there, people often overtighten them to get the float bowl from being wobbly. You might want to pull them back off you may have a cracked flaot bowl. The secret to getting them to bolt up snuggly and not wobble is add a secon flat washer user the bolt head, works like a charm, I absolutely ahte wobbly flaot bowls, if you try to overtighten them, it is aluminum thread this will either strip the threads and snap the bolt if old, the extra flat washer is the key to getting this correctly mounted. If you end up neededing a spare flaot bowl, I have plenty of good used ones.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Rear carb leaked from the bottom of the float chamber where is attaches to carb body. A unique bolt and two rubber thingees and one metal washer there, the bolt will only allow you to tighten so much as it has a lip to prevent it going in further. [ QUOTE ]


Jack, thats a dry portion of the carb, it shouldn't leak there, people often overtighten them to get the float bowl from being wobbly. You might want to pull them back off you may have a cracked flaot bowl. The secret to getting them to bolt up snuggly and not wobble is add a secon flat washer user the bolt head, works like a charm, I absolutely ahte wobbly flaot bowls, if you try to overtighten them, it is aluminum thread this will either strip the threads and snap the bolt if old, the extra flat washer is the key to getting this correctly mounted. If you end up neededing a spare flaot bowl, I have plenty of good used ones.
 
No no Hap, these are H1s that is where the fuel goes from the float bowl into the needle area. Anyway, the extra washer trick fixed it. No leaks at all now.

I was very fortinute to have two sets of H1s so I could steal a bit or two to make a really good pair. Although nothing missing on the second set that is not available.

One of these days when I quit spending money on restoration I am going to be looking for some H2s. Not in my budget at the moment though.
 
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