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Rustoleum......yes, once again......

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jlaird said:
You guys do know that what you are doing with Rustoleum can be done with any good paint?
Click to expand...

i prefer brand name products for obvious reasons.....

wouldnt a good carnuba waxing preserve the shine?
the wrench i dipped in red is VERY shiny, it hasnt
cured real hard though...its been a week or so.....z
 
I've not read the instructions for the budget paint job, but some extra solvent (mineral spirits?) may be required for proper balance of drying and flow(leveling).
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]You guys do know that what you are doing with Rustoleum can be done with any good paint?[/QUOTE]

I think what Jack is getting at is you could roll on high quality auto paint instead of using Rustoleum.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I've not read the instructions for the budget paint job, but some extra solvent (mineral spirits?) may be required for proper balance of drying and flow(leveling).[/QUOTE]

The cheapo paint technique calls for thinning the paint roughly 60-40 with mineral spirits. Indeed, the paint will not get anything close to hard without it.
 
The biggest issue that hasn't been addressed is the cost of modern car paint. I see car paints costing for materials alone costs hundreds of $ per gallon plus the need for positive pressure respirators and such to keep you from frying your lungs. And how about the smells in trying to spray paint in a single car garage that is under the house. My. S.O is asthamatic and I know spraying modern formulations would not be tolerated. Yes I have a compressor and could spray if I wanted and the engine compartment will need to be resprayed as plan is to go from BRG to Royal Blue or Yellow. Probably Blue will end up the choice as I think Yellow will require just too many coats to cover well. Gloss Hunter Green looks to be fairly close to the BRG on Bugsy now.

I have spent the last few nights prepping DS Fender and hood for a repaint. Car was involved in an accident before I purchased and hood and DS fender were pulled out and left as BRG and Grey Primer for 5 plus years. Since this will be replaced with a Bugeye Bonnet in the future painted a different color I'm trying out the cheapo technique as practice exercise on using Bondo, Surface Prep, controlling the environment from dust and other things, smells, drying time, application techniques, all of the other variables to see what kind of results I can get. Even if crap results will still be better than what I had of BRG, Grey Primer, Black Primer that I added, and rust that resulted from not painting the fender from Primer to BRG in the past. I've been having too much fun driving Bugsy than putting him into the garage to do body work. I'll take some pics and if I can figure out how to post them I'll include.
 
If I were going to try the roller method. I would remove the boot lid and do it as a test. If it looked horrible or you wanted to try a different technique, you could buy a can of spray stripper and take it back to the bare metal and try again. I found that this was the easiest panel to strip and scrape down to the metal when doing my car. I don't think I would even consider using a regular paint brush. The roller sounds like the best bet. One other thing I would do (and this is just me) is paint it in sections and try to get each section as horizontal as possible by jacking it up on that side, etc. For those who ask why a cheap paint job? I originally paid $800 for my midget and put another $150 into getting it on the road. If I had not decided the car was worth restoring and just wanted to drive it, why would I pay more than the car is worth for a paint job?
 
These are all valid points to a cheap paint job. And... taht is what I was saying. It may be a great alternative for a daily driver or as a temporary measure until you have the time/money for professional paint. However, I would not try it on a car that I have hundreds of hours of body work invested.
 
Trevor Jessie said:
These are all valid points to a cheap paint job. And... taht is what I was saying. It may be a great alternative for a daily driver or as a temporary measure until you have the time/money for professional paint. However, I would not try it on a car that I have hundreds of hours of body work invested.
Click to expand...
Agreed, to much time spent in preparation on a good body to risk using a roller on it. Another reason I went with BC/CC is that I have heard that is easier to use (as in less likely to get a run etc). I have painted 5 cars and some motorcycle parts and this will be my first time with the two part system. If I can,t deal with it I will go back to acrylic enamel and use that. I prefer painting with enamel over laquer paint in one coat systems.
 
Enamel is certainly quicker than lacquer since you can just shoot and walk. But lacquer will produce a far prettier job if done right. It's also a whole lot easier for repairs and touch up later as needed. The real problem with it is durability. Well, another may be getting good stuff. With all the new EPA restrictions, I hear it is getting harder all the time to get automotive lacquer.

Bayless
 
I agree with everything above, having sprayed quite a few cars in the past (ie, cost of all the extras, etc. and the higher cost of materials, toxicity.....) Given all that, if you are still intent on EITHER brushing, or rolling on the paint, I would highly recommend using the 3-part Awl-Grip marine epoxy paint. The three parts consist of a) pigment, b) hardener, c) reducer (specific for either spray or brush/roller). The pkg. is relatively expensive for those three materials (but 2qts of pigment will do a whole LBC with touch-up left over), but will require much less wet-sanding, finishing etc. for a super-high-gloss finish and will provide a super hard, solvent/sap/road dirt resistant, compoundable, buffable and/or polishable surface allowing for easier "spot repairs" later. A few "thin" coats are absolutely required for a final finish, and a little practice in application is needed (including the art of "tipping" the paint). Good Ventilation is an absolute must, so "basement" jobs are out of the question!

I am doing mine this way and have experimented on one door and a mirror, just with a brush and the results are great!
 
Once the paint has been applied, either with a brush or a roller, it is either re-brushed or rolled very lightly(no pressure)with a clean brush or roller with no paint on it.
One can brush or roll at a 90* direction to the primary application strokes or in the same direction. This has the tendency to even out the paint and bring a smoother gloss to the coat as it dries. A little experimentation will help arrive at the right "feel" of the timing between applying paint and then tipping it. One can actually brush a coat on and then "tip" it with a roller, though it does not work as well the other way (ie: roll on and then tip with a brush). If you have ever rolled paint onto a surface and wound up with tiny little air bubbles in the paint (foam rollers are prone to doing this!) tipping will eliminate the problem! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

I hope this is clear, as one really has to kind of develop a "feel" for it!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

PS: The faster the drying time of the paint, the harder it is to tip it, for obvious reasons! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
I wonder if adding Penetrol to the paint would help? Its supposed to extend drying time and make better flow-out. Its also a great rust preventer, like Waxoyl but easier to spray into cavities.
 
Is this a thread supposed to be a joke? I don't get it. Why would anyone intensionally want their car to look like an old piece of farm equipment? I understand the concept of being thrifty. But there is a difference in being thrifty and just plain cheap at the expense of being the butt of the joke. Can you imagine pulling up at the local British outing with a car full of brush marks with dirt imbedded in the dull lifeless paint? Cheap wouldn't even come to mind. People would need to talk to you just to see if you were smart enough to have a drivers license.

Come on.... Really... How many guys think boat (which is very expensive) or tractor paint is an acceptable finish for a classic british sport car?

So again, is this thread supposed to be a joke? Sometimes it's hard to tell with flat text.
 
Well, we were going to come over to YOUR house, hold you down, and paint YOUR car. But I guess we won't now that we know how you feel.
 
And most anybody here that is planning on doing a budget paint job will gladly let you pay for a professional job on their car if you are overly concerned. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Removing the brush marks and dirt by color sanding and buffing is part of the process. I encourage you to read the original "Rustoleum" post by the guy with the 69 Dodge Charger and look at his pictures. It is definitely not a joke.
 
shealey
haha, i assure u there wont be any dirt OR brush marks in MY paint job, and most likely when im done, itll be hard to tell its "just" rustoleum....as for shine, there will be plenty...........z
 
Paint provides color and shine!!! Can you tell by the color whether it was intended to cover a tractor or a Porsche?? I DON'T THINK SO /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif! And the discussion here is aimed at budget-minded daily drivers, NOT concours "trailer queens", even though while not garnering "points" the daily driver can still look very "nice" /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif . Each has its place among enthusiasts and each can be viewed as a joke!! What's your point of view? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif

PS: Ihope the "tipping" tip helps!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Ahhh, hehehehehe, we may never know, hehehehehe!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
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