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Some people love-em but I don't find the ColorTune to be the "magic tune-up pill" that you'd think they are. I'm more of a fan of lifting the piston a 1/16th and listening to the engine speed. But you've got to get the valves set and the timing close first before you mess with the carbs. I _DO_ like the unisyn though (the thing with the red bead you were talking about)...

Here's carb tuning in a nutshell:

•Same Fuel: Set Carb float height to 7/16 (for TR - check your setting for MG) This makes a much bigger difference on mixture than you'd think. The float assy is a toilet bowl. Too high and you're spilling more fuel into the jets and you'll never get it lean enough.

•Same Air: Balance Air flow with carb linkage separated

•Mixture – 12 flats down to start. Lift Dashpot:
- RPMS Rise = too rich
- RPMS Drop = too lean
- RPMS Rise Briefly and then fall back = Good Mixture
 
and just for the sake of argument. There are about 5 guys over on the Triumph forum that feel that run-on is just a fact of life and swear that they've just been dumping the clutch with the brake on after turning off the engine for years.

Mine doesn't do that but it's pretty dang stock.
 
That's why I was recommending the Bentley book as a first option, Jim. The section on setup and mix is about as "horses mouth" as it gets. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Colortune is a "Q&D" tool I've used a LOT and it gets the job done. PITA when they get FUBAR'd with carbon, a Q-Tip and some mineral spirits cleans 'em pretty well though. I can certainly get by with a "listenin' pipe" and a piston lift pin, but two of the colortune thingies and a UniSyn make the job a bit less tiresome.

Thanks for bringing up the toilet bowl float settings. Absolutely spot-on... and I think I'd be ashamed of myself for shutting my LBC down repeatedly by dumping the clutch. WOT works for the one-time dieseling shutdown before I'm looking for and fixing the cause. YIKES! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
and I think I'd be ashamed of myself for shutting my LBC down repeatedly by dumping the clutch. WOT works for the one-time dieseling shutdown before I'm looking for and fixing the cause. YIKES! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif

Not my cup of tea either... but as Jaybird will attest. We're the heathen-est of the heathens /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
UNISYN!! I own 2 and for the life of me could'nt get that out in my post.

I Like the "7/16" method of whatever the MG requires. If I were to purchase the color tune, did I understand correctly that you need 2?

I understand a lot of what you guys are saying but the valve are adjusted. The timing has been set. The balance on the carbs is set. SPG's are set. Where does idle come into play along with mixture?
Right now those are the two things left that need to be set.
 
Hmm, mix changes idle, more or less fuel. About 800 is right. Or there abouts. Yours is prob fine.
 
two makes it a little easier since you don't have to keep switching it back and forth.

Idle should pretty much be covered by balancing the carbs with the uni-syn. After you fiddle with the mixture it may change a little and then you should re-check the balance and adjust the idle.
 
that sounds like it makes sense
 
Paul, you sound like you have followed the same path as I, over the years. I have used the water spray years ago and, having been Army Air Corps, Army Air Force and Air Force am also aware of water injection - but my Air Crew time was as a crew-chief engineer in C54's over Korea. We were state of the art circa 1935! No water injection for us!

Guinn
 
Those old C-54 trucks were'nt too bad, as long as you had a good heavy coat and a pair of ear plugs! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif PJ
 
Avoided the "klong" like the plague... I had a "get outta jail free" card. 'course a 130 weren't much better. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Wee, hated 123's.
 
123's were "bait" AFAIC.

LMAO at the Gibson/Downey flick... Nice "shed". /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
you got that right. but a palet or so of 250's made the little guys thing the buffs were around.
 
*snork*

...and Guinn! We should start callin' ya: "Brown Shoe" Guinn!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
In the meantime, when you go to shut off the ignition, you can put it in first gear and begin to let out the clutch and shut off the engine. It'll stop without the run on. Jim.
 
You know when I had a run on prob long ago I finaly found that the dist bearing was shot. Replaced it and never had a prob again. Timeing was just floating around a bit, well more than a bit I guess.
 
Perfect segway to another question. How do you determine Dizzy play?

When I was setting my points I noticed that I could move the roto quite a bit and it felt a little sloppy.

By sloppy I mean that it rotated a little L to R and you could hear a clicking noise. (like a gear) It was not like the dizzy was all over place and I really have nothing to compare it to, to determine if this is normal.

How much play is too much?
 
The slop I was refering to was when the dizzy is removed and the bearing on the shaft is loose. ie wiggles from side to side.

There is a gear, it is on the cam shaft and a peice fits down to it, then the dizzy engages that part. Don't think that would have any prob as it only turns one way and has pressure on it all the time.
 
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