rubbing brakes

[Atrus]

So, recently I replaced both rear brake cylinders. The passenger side was completely blown. The driver’s side seemed to be leaking a bit. The passenger side shoes were totally shot, there was no lining left. On the driver’s side, the top of the shoes were OK, the bottom quarter was severely worn.

So, I replaced the cylinders and put new shoes on. I think the driver drum is ever-so slightly out of round – I can spin the driver’s side and I can lightly hear the shoe brush the drum in one spot. The adjuster is completely backed off, and it really doesn’t drag badly at all, it’s a very light brushing. You don’t see or feel the wheel hang up or anything.

When I drive the car for a very short distance (mile or two), everything is fine. Longer (3-4 miles) I start to hear the shoe squeak intermittently (squeak squeak squeak in a rhythmic pattern) and when I feel the wheels, the driver wheel is very warm to the touch – to be honest, it’s hot.

Any ideas? Is there another adjustment that could be done? I suppose I could try to back off the parking brake a bit to see if it drops the shoe a little more. As I say in all my posts, my goal right now is the drive the car. Next year I plan on tearing it down and going through it. I’d like to avoid getting a new drum right now. I’m also a little curious about the way the shoes were worn badly at the bottom and not at the top.

 

[bugimike]

While you may be thinking brakes, this sounds more like wheel bearing symptoms to me. The "intermittent dragging" or "out of roundness" you describe with the brakes does not sound too abnormal. Shoes with the adjustment just backed off do kinda make it sound like something is out-of-round, but this is not necessarily so! The increase in "squeeking" the further you drive tends to sound like bad bearings, especially if the hub gets hot too! Do the brakes start "dragging" the further you drive, or are they just noisier? Of course if lining is totally gone from a portion of a shoe, the metal-to-metal contact will give you a squeek, which should turn into a "grind" when the brakes are applied!

Re-reading you post, an additional problem you may have is how the brake shoes/return springs are installed which could lead to the odd wearing of the shoes!

 

[Atrus]

Good point Mike, I didn't think of that. I still tend to think brakes because it didn't do this until I did the brake swap.

I have about 20 miles on the car with the new brakes. I'll pull the drum tonight and see how the shoes are wearing. I'm fairly certain the springs and rods are installed correctly, but I'll double check my Haynes manual to be certain.

I don't really feel any additional drag after they are warm.

 

[john_j]

I suppose I could try to back off the parking brake a bit to see if it drops the shoe a little more.

When both brakes are off (hand and foot) the handbrake should not be pulling the shoes on at all, so if it's all adjusted properly you won't be able to back it off a bit.

If it's not adjusted properly, than maybe you can.

Quick check - is there some slack in the cable? If it's tight even when the handle is all the way down, then the cable is too tight.

 

[Luke_Healey]

The previous owner (or you) may have tightened the parking brake cable to compensate for the wear on the old shoes, so I'd focus my attention there.

However, the rear axles are easy enough to pull out (if your drums come off easily) to examine the condition of the wheel bearings.

 

[Atrus]

if I pull the axle, do I need to drain the gear lube out of the differential? If not, I'll pull it as well just to be sure.


I did tighten the parking brake cable previously, but I don't think it's too far engaged. The handle still needs to be pulled far to engage it - I was actually considering tightening it up a little more. I'll check it out though, make sure there's some slack in the cable.

 

[Luke_Healey]

I pulled mine last night and I had some gear oil come out (I was chasing down a gear oil leak at the axle.) but I don't think it would normally leak out too badly. My rear end is a little low on fluid, maybe 3/8" from the fill hole.

My car didn't have the required paper gasket between the rear end and the axle.

But putting it back together was easy enough.

 

[jlaird]

I would expect that the bad drum needs turned, cheep enough.

The metal to metal contact has caused it to get very hot in the past and it cooled out of round.

Turning is a cheep job, have it done and see what you get on that wheel.

 

[bugimike]

If brake drag does not increase and the hub does get hot, then I would definitly take a look at those bearings!! Bad bearings can make a variety of deceptive noises that are hard to pin-point, while brakes generally make grinding noises!!

 

[Gearhead]

also check that your brake lines are not damaged (smashed shut) alot of tow people just throw that hook over the rear and pull I've replaced too many rear brake lines on Spridgets & B's its very easy to overlook also double check

 

[Atrus]

Thanks guys...I pulled the drum and looked at the brakes. They seem OK - it almost seems like they are sitting a little low in the drum. I also pulled the axle and looked at the bearing. I was a little surprised to see how easily it came apart! Bearings looked OK I suppose.....I turned the wheel and they seemed good. I think I should maybe pack some grease in there though.

I reassembled and took it for a good 10 mile drive. I heard the squeaking a little, but it's definitely less noticeable than before. The wheel was hot again after the cruise. I'll really have to sit down and look through that entire corner.

As a side note, I didn't hear the brakes rubbing the drum at all anymore. Sounds like you all may be correct in recommending the wheel bearing.

 

[Sarastro]

The rear bearings are lubricated by rear-axle oil, so you need not (or, more correctly, should not) grease them. When you pull the axles, you should get at least a little dripping of oil; if it's not there, your oil level might be low. That could be the whole problem.

If they've been running without enough lubrication for any length of time, the bearings probably are worn anyway. It might be a good time just to replace them. They're not expensive.