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Rotating the crankshaft by hand

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M

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In order to adjust the valves, I know that I have to rotate the crankshaft by hand. Years ago with American cars I was able to do this by turning the fan, but with a plastic fan on my TR3, this is not possible.

I understand that the normal procedure is to use a wrench to turn the crankshaft end nut. But I don't see one on my engine.

What is the best way to rotate the engine for this purpose? All the literature and videos simply say: rotate the engine clockwise, but none tell you exactly how this is done (they assume you are born with this knowledge, I suppose).

Also: I read that there are two strong opinions on whether or not to remove the spark plugs to facilitate this process. Most warn against it.
 
I just use the starter button to bump the engine over. For #1 cylinder I'll bump it over until the opposite valve that I want to adjust is open (adjusting intake valve, exhaust valve open), bump it over and go to the next one. Removing the sparkplugs help the engine to stay where you want it but it's not needed to pull them. I disconnect the power wire to the coil so I know it wont start just in case.
 
Now there's an idea! Jack up the rear, put it in 4th, and turn the rear wheel. But why take out the plugs?
 
+1 on turning the rear wheel. And I've never heard of harming anything by pulling the plugs out.

But there's a lot I've never heard... yet!
 
I use the starting handle. Very easy to do!

And taking out the sparking plugs makes turning the engine easier. Why make it harder by leaving them in?
 
I've read that there is a problem with carbon debris fouling the valve seat when you take the spark plugs out. I don't know what thismeans... but the several people who cautioned against taking out the spark plugs seemed mighty convinced it was a bad idea. (???)

"Starting handle?" Do you mean the crank? If, so, I don't have one. Wish I did.
 
LexTR3 said:
I've read that there is a problem with carbon debris fouling the valve seat when you take the spark plugs out. I don't know what thismeans... but the several people who cautioned against taking out the spark plugs seemed mighty convinced it was a bad idea. (???)

"Starting handle?" Do you mean the crank? If, so, I don't have one. Wish I did.
Click to expand...

Ed, I wish I could tell you how to decide whom to take advice from and whom to ignore, but you're just going to have to learn on your own. It can't be taught.

Yes, Yanks call the starting handle a crank.

I have a starting handle in The Lab, but it's bent. It needs to be straightened in a press or equivalent, and it's yours.
 
Boy.
Carbon fouling the valves if you remove the plugs.

Exactly how many miles have the plugs been IN your car without removing them?

To turn the motor (plugs out), in shops, when a socket on the snout was not handy, 4th gear and roll the car to get the setting, neutral, roll it back, set the valves, do it again.
 
Actually, the comment about carbon fouling the valves didn't apply to my car -- my plugs have been in only about 6 months -- but something I read on some other forums. I just mention it, but I don't have any reason to believe it.

I have combed the Internet on this subject and find that amost everyone recommends removing the spark plugs. Seems sensible to me.

The technique you recommend -- put the car in 4th, etc. -- seems like a simple and effective way to accomplish this.

Dr.John: Unfortunately, not only do I have no crank, my new aluminum radiator has no hole for the crank. So I thank you very much, but I can't use a crank.
 
Twosheds said:
I have a starting handle in The Lab, but it's bent. It needs to be straightened in a press or equivalent, and it's yours.
Click to expand...
He has a plastic fan, and can't see the "nut". I'm guessing that means there is no crank dog either.

Personally, I just put the gearbox/transmission in 4th gear, and roll the car a bit to turn the engine while setting the valves. Since the valves are located above the spark plugs, there is absolutely no way for carbon to fall from the plugs to the valves (unless of course the car is upside down) ... maybe those same folks that worry about that are running flathead engines?

That said, I don't generally bother pulling the plugs just to run the valves. Easier to roll the car, IMO.

Oh, and I have no crank dog, nor hole to stick the crank, and my fan is not attached to the engine at all.
 
Randall: No crank dog, no hole to stick the crank, and no fan! Now there's a cool running car... unless of course it is a car up on blocks. Of course, anything is possible in sunny California.

I will follow the gearbox in 4th gear advice as that makes a lot of sense to me. I'll try it with and without removing the plugs, although I do want to put new plugs in soon.
 
Then why do you wish you had a starting handle?
 
JR - How mad were you when you threw that hand crank ? And who were you mad at ? How do you bend a hand crank handle ?

That's the reason for no explanation in the repair manuals. Turn over the engine means just as suggested above, Use the hand crank.

BTW, In the two or three times I've removed the head in the 20 years (over 105,000 miles), since lead free gas became the law in Canada, I have never seen any accumulation of carbon build-up in the head. It used to be called "de-coking" and you had to do this every 40,000 or 50,000 miles when leaded gas was the norm.
 
I usually use the starting handle on the TR3 but without it I find an easy way to move the engine is to have the gearbox in 4th and push the car forward by pushing on the top of the left front tire. Pushing on the top of the tire gives you 2:1 leverage and the engine moves fairly easily, moreso with the plugs out.

It's a good time to check the plugs so I suppose I usually have them out anyway.
 
Dr. John,

I wish I had a starting handle for two reasons: (1) if I had one and could use it, it would be mighty handy for turning the engine for this valve work, and (2) it would be amusing to start the car in front of some bemused onlookers.

Back in 1962, having a crank saved me when my grear ring partially disintegrated. But that was a different TR3A from the one I now have.

Richard. Ha, ha.... that's a good one!!

George: Why didn't I think of that! Move the car by pushing on the front wheel. It seems so obvious now that you mention it. It's important because when I adjust the valves, it will be my first time ever... and I will be doing it alone.

To put this in perspective, I have just replaced my voltage regulator and it was as if I had just rebuilt an engine. Ah the adventure of it all....
 
I can turn the engine by putting the car in neutral and pulling firmly on the fan belt - with the plugs in or out.

jb
 
ArcticOne said:
I can turn the engine by putting the car in neutral and pulling firmly on the fan belt - with the plugs in or out.

jb
Click to expand...

John,

That's what I recall doing as well although that might have just been with my wife's Spitfire.

Scott
 
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