Rivergate 5 speed conversion questions

[Billm]

Re: HIJACKING the ...Rivergate 5 speed conversion

If anyone is looking for a Datsun 5-speed in the Michigan area- here is one, its too far for me to go:
Bill


I'm in Kalamazoo MI. Seems like that 5 speed is a popular item. I sent out
2 inquiries, you were one of them. The other guy responded within an hour
and was intrerested in the entire inventory, but he can't get here until
June. I would rather sell everything at once but I am selling the house and
may not have until June to get out, so not sure how that will shake out. I
wouldn't rule out selling just the transmission, but if this guy is serious,
and decides he wants it all before I have to get out, then I'd rather do it
that way than trying to part out these cars that have been in my barn for 10
years.


michaelblied@mindspring.com

 

[Hap Waldrop]

[ QUOTE ]
That was my original question. Where is the leakage coming from?

[/ QUOTE ]
I believe it floods the seal area, and it normally it leaks alot, with the Mini Mania kits we would lose a quart a race, I don't know how that would relate on a street car, but I heard alot of complaints about excessive leaking, heck that's why I'm building the engine I'm working on now with the RG conversion.

Like I said before most of my personal rear seal experience are with the Mini Mania set up and not the RG unit, which o uses a aluminum piece on the back of the block instead of the factory piece, and that piece also attaches the piece that houses the seal, I believe this set up allows you to misalign the the piece on the back of the block and allows more oil to the seal area, where it eventually can't hold it all back and the seal fails, but that's just my theory. The RG rear seal I'm working with has a aluminum piece that replaces the rear factory piece as well but could be bolted on the block and line bore with it in place, really I don't why the factory piece wasn't used it looks like it would still fit and work with the seal. The RG seal/housing is independent of the rear piece so for all practical purposes could just be a back up to the factory piece and should work, but it doesn't appear to. I also believe the block relieves crankcase pressure at this point so if no new block crankcase pressure point is created then the seal may leak from building crankcase pressure, again just a theory. After some thought, here's what I think might work, line bore the block with the factory piece in place, use the RG rear kit and get a block breather piece like Mini Mania sells and it all may just work.

My original concerns with all this was the amount of silicone used on the back of the block and I wondered if that was per instructions, from some of your comments it appears it may be, which seems pointless if you ask me, if I'm going to entomb the rear of the crank in silicone, why bother with the seal? Needless to say this is not the route I took on this rebuild.

Jerryb, yep, they busted my chops on the rear springs, but I quoted exactly what CC told me, so if I'm wrong so is he, it wouldn't be the first time I been led astray by this source, sometimes it becomes pointless to argue, besides JL is just bored /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Westfield_XI]

For what it's worth, I spoke to APT yesterday about the oil leakage situation and they said that they were planning to line bore the block for the stock seal and use the Rivergate seal as a back-up. Sort of suspenders and a belt approach. I assume that the 2 seals will not interfere...