TR2/3/3A right to the wheel well

[sp53]

The PO on this project bolted a roll bar right to the wheelwell by using some steel plates and drilling two 7/16 holes for the attaching bolts.The roll bar was gone, but the holes are still there. I want to plug the holeswith a smooth sealing finish on the wheel well. One thought was to cut someplugs the size of the hole and butt weld those in place then seal them withsome body glaze and paint. I am a loss about making the plugs. I could cut themwith snips, but they are small. Any suggestions out there?

 

[Geo Hahn]

I'd cut plugs roughly to (polygon) shape with whatever you have handy - even an angle grinder or cut-off tool would do. Then I'd finish the exact shape on the grinder.

But then my 'machine shop' are generally the cut-off tool and the grinder.

What size are the holes?

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Weld in some washers...fill in the center with weld. Grind them flush

Cheers
Tush

 

[TomMull]

Weld in some washers...fill in the center with weld. Grind them flush

Cheers
Tush

Quick and easy and will provide good results. The washers might be a bit thick though. I've done the same with a hole saw and a piece of 18 ga metal. Use a drill press and you can even omit the pilot hole.
Tom

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

When I was doing my metal repair, I found it easier to cut the hole until it had square(ish) corners. A file or cutting wheel on a dremel will square-out the round hole. It's much easier to cut a square of steel slightly smaller than the hole. A magnet can hold the little piece in place to tack weld it into position. I found if the "plug" of steel were a little smaller, it took much less grinding after welding the seam. -But my welding skills are better appreciated because of how well I can grind.

If you weld washers, be sure they are steel and not coated -most are zinc coated and the fumes from welding are dangerous.

 

[DonP]

Ironic, I just bought a roll bar for my '62B, minus the backing plates and Grade 8 fasteners.

Now I'm figuring out how to fabricate the plates for that exact curved area.

Haven't drilled the mounting holes yet. If only I could borrow yours, we'd both solve a problem.

 

[TR-3rg]

Ironic, I just bought a roll bar for my '62B, minus the backing plates and Grade 8 fasteners.

Now I'm figuring out how to fabricate the plates for that exact curved area.

Haven't drilled the mounting holes yet. If only I could borrow yours, we'd both solve a problem.

Hi, Where did you get the roll bar from?

RG

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Easier to cut a larger sq hole. Cut patch to fix and weld in.
Marv

 

[DonP]

A shop in Kansas that was clearing out their back room. It came out of a TR-3 they scrapped for parts. Nobody thought to save the backing plates when they pulled it out, but that's not a rocket science level challenge. A couple of pieces of 1/4 inch steel welded together for each plate and a slight bend for the wheel wells, doesn't have to match the curves perfectly.

 

[sp53]

On this roll bar they just tightened the bolts down and that force a kinda of squared out spot for the roll bar on sheet metal of the wheel well. When I first came across the issue of repairing the holes, I planned to skip it and use some larger outside square patches then double up on some foam padding for the wheel well covers and just try to hide the damage under the upholstery work. Now that I have gained some experience, I decided to smooth plug the holes and get the car back to original with the wheel-covers glued right to the wheel well.

Pounding out the metal was not too difficult after gaining some experience, but welding a 7/16 holes has been a challenge. I tried the washer idea, but just could not get it going. Perhaps I had a poor ground. I did grind off the finish? Anyways I cut some plugs with snips then ground them true and welded them in with the MIG. This time I use some copper pennies taped on both sides in place to bridge the hole plus get a better ground, and got it.

Back in the 70ites I worked for this sheet metal shop on gutters and downspouts that we soldered at the ends, corners, and outlets. We put on miles of that stuff and that experience comes in handy. In the future, I might try using more soldering because the MIG is difficult in those little areas.

 

[CJD]

Looks good, Steve! Those little holes are the worst...as much work as the big holes, but they are...little.