Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
JimLaney
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That part about move on when you hit a wall... that is very helpful for me. I have just kept fooling with a problem and not making progress. Didn't even realize it til I read your line. THANKS.
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Richmond VA 1960 Bugeye Bringing Miss Eva back to life.
- Thread starter hcallaway
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I finished up working on putting the rear end back together.
The first step was to mount the backer plates to the axle. Everyone will tell you to mount the brakes to the backer plates. This will include wheel cylinders. A word of caution. Every wheel cylinder kit that I have seen comes with a E Type Circlip.
When you use this type of clip (E-Type) and then after mounting all the pads, springs, wheel cylinders etc, there is not enough clearance for the backer plate and the axle housing to lay flush when tightened.
You can see that it is too tight if not rubbing. This will become even worse when you tighten the axle nut.
See the marks on the E-Type this is where the axle housing covers the clip.
Using an External 3/4" Circlip like the original eliminates the problem. You do have to use the thin washer used on the original wheel cylinder. There is a partial original External Circlip that is broken. One ear is missing.
The first step was to mount the backer plates to the axle. Everyone will tell you to mount the brakes to the backer plates. This will include wheel cylinders. A word of caution. Every wheel cylinder kit that I have seen comes with a E Type Circlip.
When you use this type of clip (E-Type) and then after mounting all the pads, springs, wheel cylinders etc, there is not enough clearance for the backer plate and the axle housing to lay flush when tightened.
You can see that it is too tight if not rubbing. This will become even worse when you tighten the axle nut.
See the marks on the E-Type this is where the axle housing covers the clip.
Using an External 3/4" Circlip like the original eliminates the problem. You do have to use the thin washer used on the original wheel cylinder. There is a partial original External Circlip that is broken. One ear is missing.
Finishing up the rear axle.
After mounting the bearing hub with new bearings, it is time to install the paper gaskets.
I am not going to use any sealant. I am betting the rubber O-Ring and a clean surface will do the job.
I talked to a person that was a dealer mechanic in the early 60's. He said this is the way they did them. If it is British Car it is prone to marking it's spot.
Over size nuts to act as spacers to pull the axle housing into the center section.
Doing this makes it easy to make sure the pozi screw is it set tight.
Shame that I have to paint the new bare metal drums.
Completed Rear End except for gear oil.
After mounting the bearing hub with new bearings, it is time to install the paper gaskets.
I am not going to use any sealant. I am betting the rubber O-Ring and a clean surface will do the job.
I talked to a person that was a dealer mechanic in the early 60's. He said this is the way they did them. If it is British Car it is prone to marking it's spot.
Over size nuts to act as spacers to pull the axle housing into the center section.
Doing this makes it easy to make sure the pozi screw is it set tight.
Shame that I have to paint the new bare metal drums.
Completed Rear End except for gear oil.
The rear end is ready to be hung. Next focus is going to be the front suspension. I have accumulated Disc Brake Spindles and still need to purchase the front shocks, springs and spring pans. The swivel axle and kingpin assembly have already been reamed and fitted. I hope I got that description right. Lots of parts to clean and purchase for the conversion to disc brakes from drums.
I went to hang the rear end and I did not like the spring height. After reading many posts I decided to take the top 3 leafs off the 10 leaf replacement springs and move them to the bottom. Right off the bat I lowered the springs by 3/4". Also I will benefit from a softer ride and should pick up another 1-2 inches when the suspension is loaded.
https://imgur.com/a/dxGDj
New web site for new pictures since photobucket decided to no longer host pictures unless you spend $400 per year. I am afraid many of my earlier posts pictures will go away Jan 1 2018. Imgur is a free hosting site.
New web site for new pictures since photobucket decided to no longer host pictures unless you spend $400 per year. I am afraid many of my earlier posts pictures will go away Jan 1 2018. Imgur is a free hosting site.
My other project which has consumed most of my free time was building a wall in my garage that is 12' x 36' with one door and two offsets for my toolboxes and storage.
This will allow me to have a 18 x 36 free space that will contain welding and grinding and allow the rest of the garage to remain somewhat clean. I also hope to heat and cool the smaller space.
Unfortunately the 1970 Z28 is leaving. It was nice to use some this summer.
This will allow me to have a 18 x 36 free space that will contain welding and grinding and allow the rest of the garage to remain somewhat clean. I also hope to heat and cool the smaller space.
Unfortunately the 1970 Z28 is leaving. It was nice to use some this summer.
My latest detail. Car was very clean other than being driven into wet highway paint. At least it was white and very dry.
I have not done the interior yet.
1996 LT1 59K miles 1st owner 2 years, 2nd Father/Son 21 years.
$6700 Make you wonder sometimes why we love old cars.
I have not done the interior yet.
1996 LT1 59K miles 1st owner 2 years, 2nd Father/Son 21 years.
$6700 Make you wonder sometimes why we love old cars.
Started getting the front suspension together.
Disassembled and pressure clean, install new grease fittings, new O rings and seals, pressed fit new bushing, and align ream the bushings for correct clearance.
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Spring Seats. Bead Blasted and Powder-Coated.
Disassembled and pressure clean, install new grease fittings, new O rings and seals, pressed fit new bushing, and align ream the bushings for correct clearance.
[FONT=Open Sans, sans-serif] [/FONT]
Spring Seats. Bead Blasted and Powder-Coated.
Motor was pulled early January 2017. The machine shop finished it yesterday. 9-10 months later. (I should have never said I am not in a rush.) I have not seen a lot of people posting cost for rebuilding motors. I know they can run a wide range. I can only share my build. Machine Shop Costs $800, clean parts, block, head, polish crank, press pistons on rods, 3 angle valve job, hardened seats, flywheel and ring gear. I have purchased about a $1000 in parts with the cam being most expensive individual part. Reassembly will be $500. So I will be in to it for about $2600. I think if I had it balanced it would have pushed over $3000. I think I am in the range of many people when rebuilding a solid driver.
Deck was flat and did not require any machine work.
Deck was flat and did not require any machine work.
