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RHD Conversion

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Wray_G

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This is probably a simple question for most, but I bought a disassembled 1959 Bugeye recently and have found an early 1967 MK4 Sprite for the 1275 and disc brakes.

I am considering converting this LHD Bubeye to Right Hand Drive.

The main item I should need is a RHD steering rack????

Is the RHD steering rack for the A-H MK1 available as a new part from the British car Parts suppliers?

I would of course need a RHD dash, but everything else looks like it would just bolt to the right side of the car.
Haven't looked closely at the throttle linkage to see if there is anything special there, but I believe the RHD steering rack would be the only major item needed.

I have seen a new Austin Morris steering rack for sale.
Is this the same steering rack used in the Bugeye?

I seem to remember talking to someone about using the Austin Morris steering rack and mounting it upside down to convert to RHD, but if the Austin Morris steering is the same as a Bugeye it seems you could just use a new Austin Morris RHD steering rack that I believe you can still by new.

Any advice from people with more experience would be appreciated.
I am looking forward to getting to drive the Bugeye one of these days.
Thanks,
Wray
 
Wray, a LHD rack from a Morris Minor works as a RHD Bugeye rack. The throttle cable is no issue at all, but you'll have to make new brake and clutch lines from the master to the appropriate connections.
Blank fiberglass dashes are available, rather than search for a proper RHD dash.
Jeff
 
I picked up a RHD rack from a fellow BCF member a year ago for a possible conversion. They're out there, and not particularly expensive.

If/when I get to my conversion, I'll plan to do as Jeff suggested and get the fiberglass dash. Cover it with vinyl, and you'll never know the difference.
 
Thanks for the info.

I have seen both the fiberglass and steel dashes.
I'll probably use one of those to save the original dash.
I have been told that Mini Mania has new Austin Morris steering racks.
The 59 Bugeye is all original with almost no rust so I don't want to change anything that can't be put back to original.
I figure if I save all the original stuff I can use some of the newer bolt on upgrades to make it more fun to drive.

I have the tools for bending and double flaring brake lines so that isn't a problem.
I'll probably use the later dual master brake cylinder for safety, if I don't use a new after market brake and clutch assemblies.

This brings up another question if anyone has some experience with the after market clutch and break pedal assemblies I would be interested in learning more?

My wife and I plan on going up to the 50th Golden Jubilee in Carlisle, PA this year to see and learn a lot more about the Sprites.

I drove a RHD 1998 Classic Mini and found it to be unique and fun. One Mini owner told me that the Mini is so small it doesn't make much difference driving a LHD or a RHD Mini since you are still sort in the middle of the lane.

I figured a RHD Bugeye would be unique and add to the fun.

Thanks very much for the information, just wish I had more time to work on and the Bugeye so I could be driving it soonest.
 
Wray,
I had a RHD Bugeye back in the mid 70s and really enjoyed it. You do have to learn to shift with your left hand, but that doesn't take long. I constantly had people talking to me at stop lights and curbs. You get a whole new set of friends from that. You will enjoy it!
Charlie
 
Wray, are you speaking of pedal assemblies such as Tilton?
They will require cutting away some sheet metal in the mount area to fit, as well as the installation of an interior brace to take the stress away from the sheet metal. They also requre individual cylinders for each pedal.
I had a RHD Bugeye when I lived in Tucson, and it was kind of a PITA around town.
Jeff
 
Bugeye58 said:
...pedal assemblies such as Tilton?
They will require cutting away some sheet metal... They also requre individual cylinders for each pedal...
Jeff
Click to expand...

Just finished up the fabrication work on the Tilton pedal box pan for the Spridget Project. As Jeff mentions, there's sheet metal work involved.

There are photos of what I did on my web site; go almost to the bottom of the page at:

https://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_62_sprite_bodywork3.htm

Here's a sample,

Ray

P1010014.jpg
 
I have seen pictures of Tilton, Wildwood, etc.
I think most have separate master and clutch cylinders.
The main thing that I am interested in having a dual circuit master brake cylinder for the safety and just real good brakes in general.
I have had older cars and always change to dual circuit master cylinders. I have had single circuit master fail and it isn't a fun thing to have happen.
I think the federal regulations required dual cylinder master cylinders about 1967. At least that is where I have noticed the change in master cylinder designs on a lot of cars.

I figure imported British cars had to comply with the same safety regulations so a later Sprite system would probably have dual circuit master cylinders and would be fine as long as they are available as new parts.
I'd rather use all new parts when it comes to Brakes; it's not worth the risk to try and use rebuilt hydraulic brake components.

The 1967 Sprite parts car I bought is an early 67 so it has positive ground and may not have the clutch and brake cylinder set up I need.
Another thing I probably need to get right is the diameter of the master cylinder piston and rod length to make sure the brakes work right.

This is why I thought just using new after market pedal assemblies might be best.
 
I did a small cut on mine for the later cylinder mounting
https://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x288/frogeye61/Links/P1070101.jpg
and though I'm at first going to use a single brake cylinder, a double is in the plans. With LHD, the double cylinder interferes slightly with the wiper motor. RHD is no problem.
I have also driven a RHD mini (1961) for quite a while. It was a blast and easy to drive. I decided however not to convert my BE.
 
Obviously the Tilton system takes quite a bit more modification. Looks like a lot of good work there.

I guess with the RHD configuration the wiper motor would not have to be moved if later model components were being used.

Thanks for the information and pictures.

Shifting with the left hand shouldn't be too difficult to get used to.

I am right handed, but someone told me to convert my computer mouse to a left hand configuration and it would help prevent fatigue in my right hand and help develop left hand skills.
One benefit I have noticed is that when working in tight spaces on cars it has made it easier to use my left hand to start nuts and bolts.

This doesn't have anything to do with a dual circuit master cylinder for the Bugeye though.
I'll have more time to research the change to RHD and better brakes before I get started.

Thanks to all for the information.
I can go ahead and get a LHD Austin Morris steering rack to use to make the Bugeye RHD.
 
Wray

Our bugeye is running dual circuit brake master cylinder and the other vintage race car we have is running a tilton type peddle setup, but I believe it is running Girling master cylinders. Give me shout if you would like to come take a look sometime.

Kevin
 
Kevin,

Probably would like to see the dual circuit brake master cylinder set up. As I run across parts I'll know what I need to be buying and/or planning for.

Thanks,
 
Jeff,

Is this a later model Sprite brake master cylinder and separate clutch master cylinder?
It looks like there are 2 brake lines coming out of the brake master cylinder which means it is a dual circuit brake master cylinder?

This is the type system I probably need to use with the stock front MK4 disc brakes from my 67 parts car.

The master cylinder on the parts car I have doesn't look like the one in your picture.
My parts car master cylinder has a metal reservoir with only one brake line, not the plastic brake reservoir like the one on you car.

The clutch master cylinder on my parts car looks very similar to the clutch master cylinder on your car.

I probably only need the later model brake master cylinder like yours. This would be a lot less modification than using the Tilton pedal assemblies.

The brake actuation rod on my parts car may or may not be the correct length for the newer master cylinder?

There may not be much modification required to use a brake master cylinder like yours.

If I mount everything on the right hand side of the car I would have to fabricate new brake lines anyway.

Thanks for the picture.
This looks like the way I need to go with my daily driver.
I hope new parts are still available for this application.

Regards,
 
Wray, this is the entire setup as scavanged from a later model Spridget, '68 and up. I think '67 was the only year to use the single circuit cylinder that you have. I believe the pushrods for this cylinder are still available from Moss.
There is only a modest amount of trimming of the sheet metal to adapt this setup into the earlier cars.
Jeff
 
Jeff,

I checked the Moss on line catalog and the Push Rod (Moss Part Number 181-695) for the 1968 and later master cylinder shows to be no longer available.

That shouldn't be a problem if I can locate one used.

If someone has a picture and/or dimensions it should be easy enough to build or modify one to make the later master cylinder work.

Thanks for all the good information.
 
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