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I've cut out the rusty drivers side floor board to replace it. This also gave me an exposed view of the clutch slave cylinder. It seems that I had installed it on the wrong side of the bracket if I was going for the TR3 application. I installed it in the correct location for a TR3. I have a TR6 gearbox in my car. When I go to adjust the pushrod is the clutch shaft Lever pulled "towards" the gearbox when setting the rod length? Also because it's a TR6 box what size gap should I use when turning the pushrod into the clevis as the TR3 and TR6 each have a different spec?
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TR2/3/3A Resolving my Clutch slave issue....
- Thread starter karls59tr
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I was driving with the return spring off because that seemed to be the only way I could get the clutch to work, however I did hear a noise when the clutch pedal was up so I believe the release bearing was still riding on the pressure plate to some degree (hope I didn't do too much damage!)
I'm waiting for a new return spring and pushrod to come in from Moss as I had shortened the old pushrod in my futile attempts to get the setup to work.
I have a TR6 box but am using a TR3 clutch/pressure plate/release bearing and slave cylinder. Should I just use the adjustment method as described in the TR3 manual? Can't recall it offhand?
I think the adjustment for the TR6 was 0.06" but the TR6 slave dosn't use the external return spring,correct?
I'm waiting for a new return spring and pushrod to come in from Moss as I had shortened the old pushrod in my futile attempts to get the setup to work.
I have a TR6 box but am using a TR3 clutch/pressure plate/release bearing and slave cylinder. Should I just use the adjustment method as described in the TR3 manual? Can't recall it offhand?
I think the adjustment for the TR6 was 0.06" but the TR6 slave dosn't use the external return spring,correct?
TR3driver
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AFAIK there is no spec on the TR6, because it doesn't have that adjustment. .060" should work OK (that's about what I run), but it would probably be safer to stick with the .100" given in the last edition of Practical Hints. I think the larger value is just to give more margin (for clutch wear) before it has to be adjusted again, but that's just a WAG. The adjustment method given in the workshop manual is probably the easiest.
If you stick with the TR3 mounting pattern (bracket on the back of the transmission flange, slave cylinder on the front of the bracket) then you probably will need to shorten the pushrod. I found that I also needed a little tab to stretch the spring farther, to get the piston to reliably return all the way but YMMV.
If you stick with the TR3 mounting pattern (bracket on the back of the transmission flange, slave cylinder on the front of the bracket) then you probably will need to shorten the pushrod. I found that I also needed a little tab to stretch the spring farther, to get the piston to reliably return all the way but YMMV.