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Replacing windshield seals

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lbcfan said:
The problem is that first timers don't know what will work and what won't. That's where this forum is such a help.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I didn't either. As far as round or flat, I don't know. Both of the ones that I have are round. The "T" for the slot on the one from MacGregor is the same size as the old one that came out, and is much thinner than the one from VB. The round part of the seal on MacGregor's is also of a smaller diameter than the one from VB.
 
Both of them, from the Moss pics, are rounded and not like the flat one that has about 1 1/4" flat area. Maybe that one isn't offered from Moss any longer? I'll see what happens when I get the right one that was labeled right. The "T" section looks a bit smaller, but not as small as the flat one that was on the car. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Could it be that the flat one on the car was originally round?
 
In my experience, which means keeping a 71 and 73 Midget on the road and happy, this has to be the worst job ever. I don't have any expertise to add to this, other then contact me if you need me to look into something further.

Shawn
 
I installed the last one, and it was flatter than the one I just installed. The catalogs show two types- one very early for 1958 (up to 5476) only and more rounded, and another for everything after. The problem could be that some of us receive the wrong one no matter what we order.
 
I'm not sure whether this will help at all. Here's a photo of the seal I put in.
windshieldseal.jpg

It was a struggle all the way. I tried starting the T at one end and pulling it all the way through to the other, but that was a no-go. So I just worked it in, 1/32nd of an inch at a time. I had the windshield on a piece of plywood covered with carpet held up by two saw horses. The driver's side of the windshield was down.

I stuck the long side of the T into the slot, and pried the other side in with a narrow bladed screwdriver. Now, this goes very, very slowly, like I said, 1/32 of an inch at a time. I seem to recall it was going in so slowly I could hardly convince myself it was going in at all. I know I pulled it all out in frustration a couple of times.

One thing I did was boil the rubber in water to help soften it up a bit.

Also, it was probably in the 90s out when I did this, and I think the heat makes all the difference in the world in terms of the pliability of the rubber. Maybe you could use a hair dryer to soften it too. But, it must have taken an hour to get it done, and believe me I almost felt like giving up at times. I was sweating like a pig!

This piece came from EBay, it was part of a set that included the bonnet buffers, etc. One thing about Moss's catalog--do note there are two different Bugeye body to frame seals. Make sure you have the right one.

Oh yeah, another thing. You want to have the end of the seal sticking out past the end of the windshield frame somewhat, half or quarter an inch or so? I can't remember whether it goes over the windshield post gasket or under it.

But you don't want that seal to be flush with the edge of the frame or you will end up with a gap between the seal and the windshield post gasket. I did this wrong, LOL. But I wasn't ripping the whole thing out and starting over.

I also had to trim the rubber around the wiper bezels too. No big deal.
Charlie
 
I don't have a photo of the profile, but the link is to the finished installation. The seal that I had previously looked like yours- it touched the wiper bezels.

As I mentioned previously, this one seems to fit the space at the base of the pillars. I think this came from VBM.

This one was incredibly difficult to install. You can see signs of stress (on the rubber, not mine) in the last photo.

https://www.imagehosting.com/photo/albums/windshield-to-body-seal

Michael
 
Michael, thanks for posting this. I'm not 100% sure I understand what I'm seeing. The seal looks as if it is curving under the frame. Have you tucked the flap back under the windshield frame? It does look good. Here's a before and after of mine.
Windshieldcorner.jpg

windshieldcrop.jpg

Charlie
 
Charlie-

The photo shows the gasket as it lies naturally- definitely more rounded than my old one. That is the difference between the two types. That's why I was wondering which is correct...

I notice that you have the early frame with the studs across the top rather than a groove for a bar. I have the latter type. When I look in the Horler book, on page 22 it shows a studded windshield seal that does not touch the wiper bezels, while on page 46 the later car seems to have a seal more like yours. Page 49 shows both types, but not the seal profiles.

I don't own a show car. Does anyone know if the seal profile matters?

Michael
 
MIchael,
MIne is far from being a show car too! So, what's historically correct does not matter to me in the least. I thought yours might seal better. It definitely looks a little better. Mine will probably never see a rainstorm while I own it so how well it seals doesn't matter much to me.

Someone has made this observation about my windshield before. However, I believe someone added those studs after the fact. If I am not mistaken the very early windshield had a total of nine studs (I've never seen the Horler book). Mine only has seven. My car came with an old beat-up top that looks like it was home made, and probably the maker added the studs.
Charlie
 
From a leak standpoint yours is probably better. The round profile will trap water under the bulge. Regardless, no way I'm doing the seal again until I have to replace all the rubber again due to age.

The Horler book has come back into print, so I bought one out of curiosity before painting the suspension and engine compartment. It helped fill in some gaps. Although just a driver, I wanted the basics to remain as correct as possible.

Are you really "the architect"? I'm "the HVAC engineer". :^)

Michael
 
I don't know if I am <span style="font-style: italic">THE</span> architect, but I am one. And I've done enough reroofing jobs to know a thing or two about shedding water, that's for sure.

Glad to know ya. Dunno where you practice, but I know a few MEs from NYC. Exciting times for MEs. Lots of interesting new technologies out there.
 
Good to know you. Retired now, but worked for firms in NJ and NYC for 40 years. May go back, unless I find another project- need to keep busy. My wife wants the kitchen done...

The technologies are great. I've seen a lot of changes. I won't miss the LEED process though...

Enjoy your new windshield seal.

Michael
 
So I took a photo this morning of all 3 seals. I know the later spridget one isn't in question but what the heck. Might as well have all 3 in one location. To my eye I can't see the difference between the two early seals we offer.

680-875 - Bugeye to (c)5476
680-870 - Sprite from (c)5477, Midget MKI
282-058 - Everything later

https://s1144.photobucket.com/albums/o489...-body-seals.jpg
 
There's your problem. I THINK that you are showing two early seals rather than an early and late.
 
Everything being equal the rubber I got from AH Spares for my MK2 Sprite windshield seal didn't come all the way to meet the cowl.
I complained about the first one and they shipped me a new one for free but it was the same. I'm "making it work".
Translation - living with it.

For some reason everyone has trouble getting the rubber bits right, it has to be one of the MOST common complaints about all parts.
People say McGregor gets it right, but they are expensive FWIW.
 
Thats funny, one of your people tooks pics and sent it off to my Moss dealer, and the 870 and the 875 were drastically different. I ordered an 870 for the later cars and got an 875 in the package. The 875 is the earlier one and smaller one, and thats what you have in both pics. Seems you have a lot of mislabeled rubber bits. The later one has a longer flap coming off it and hopefully, a smaller "T". A pic of that was sent to my Moss guy.
 
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