Replacing Factory Hardtop Rear Window

[maxwedge5281]

recently purchased bn6 just arrived yesterday. a bit of sorting to do but i am looking for advice or suggestions on how to replace a rather cloudy rear window screen and gasket. any help or advice is appreciated. i will probably purchase the parts from nical engineering unless the parts are available stateside.

 

[Jack T]

Re: how to replace rear screen in a facory hardtop

I seem to be unable to attach the file I found when looking for info on restoring a hardtop, but when taking about the rear window it was mentioned that the replacement may not exactly match the original. Some trimming might be needed. Otherwise it should be similar to replacing any automotive glass.

Do buy new seals. I bought all of my parts from AH Spares. I have not begun the re-assembly process yet.

 

[DerekJ]

Re: how to replace rear screen in a facory hardtop

The screens are all slightly oversize so they can be cut to fit each individual hardtop. You may need to make a template, we did when I replaced mine. It can be a real PITA and is a two man job.

 

[John Turney]

Re: how to replace rear screen in a facory hardtop

.... i will probably purchase the parts from nical engineering unless the parts are available stateside.

I believe parts are available from British Car Specialists in CA.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Re: how to replace rear screen in a facory hardtop

IIRC, Lin had a write up on restoring a hardtop. Don't remember if it included a new rear window.

 

[Guido36]

Re: how to replace rear screen in a facory hardtop

Here is the link to Lin’s article. I will be referring to this when installing the rear window in my Pete Farmer Works Type Hardtop on my BN1. Although this does not use the same rear window seal as the factory hardtops for the 100/6 and 3000s there are sure to be some useful tips.

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/LHRose Hardtop Restoration.pdf

For those of you not familiar with the Pete Farmer hardtops, this is the works style hardtop with optional scoop for BN1/BN2....

 

[kozelding]

Have you considered trying to clean the current one up with a plastic headlight polish/restoration kit? I seem to remember reading folks had good luck with those, and the kit should come with a UV protectant to apply afterwards.

 

[maxwedge5281]

Yes, I have given that some thought and thought I might talk to some of the local detailers. I don’t relish the thought of dismantling the whole top, but may have to do that.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Yes, I have given that some thought and thought I might talk to some of the local detailers. I don’t relish the thought of dismantling the whole top, but may have to do that.

Search for a good Detailer in you area with recommendations. Very good products out there now! I hand buffed my soft tops rear window and it came out very good. If I had used my electric buffer it probably would have been excellent.

 

[Lyayozoce]

Try to find a video on YouTube, watch it carefully and do the same. It seems to me that you can do it.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Try to find a video on YouTube, watch it carefully and do the same. It seems to me that you can do it.

I recently installed a hardtop on my BJ8 with the help of a friend and the plexiglass rear window had to be trimmed. I suspect that all the Healey hardtops need the plex trimmed to fit properly. It’s not a hard job, but does require patience and attention to detail. I also used a special cutting tool I had just for the job.

 

[Healey Nut]

I’m getting ready to install mine on my BT7 hardtop . I compared my original window to the new one from Cape , it’s very close to identical in shape etc . However the rear seals from Cape are not correct , the lower one doesn’t have the extra lip to cover over the bottom cantrail correctly.
Cape said that’s all they can get but I have been told that the seals from AH4H are correct . I’m Going to order them and find out .

Hardtop rear window seals : The 3000 Forum : The Austin-Healey Experience

So I compare the original rear window seals to the ones supplied by the suppliers . The seals are clearly different . The seal that goes over the top edge of the widow is fine but the lower seal across the bottom cantrail requires the extra lip of rubber (see bottom left corner of old seal)

www.ahexp.com

 

[Lyayozoce]

Try to find a video on YouTube, watch it carefully and do the same. It seems to me that you can do it.

If you want to change the windows on your car, you need to prepare well so that everything works out neatly. First, you must clean the contacts well when removing the old glass. Secondly, find an excellent sealant to remove the air cavities. Once my brother also changed the insole, he did it quite neatly. He even found a special sun shades tint and attached it to the glass. It turned out no worse than in a car service. You can find videos on YouTube and see how to do it correctly.

 

[andrea]

Hard Top REAR WINDOW is a battle that I remember well in my 100/6 restoration - TWO days of work with a friend
the first day was a debacle, but on the second day (alone) I win the game, a Special tool helped a lot on my Google Album you can find
some photos that can help you- (I follow the instructions of My GURU Lin ROSE, very helpful for me) here you can see the photos how how to build the Special Tool- I don't cut the Plexiglas received by A Head 4 Healey BUT must have strong ARMS and strong FINERS before to set the Plexiglas inside

2 AH RESTORATION AUSTIN HEALEY 100/6 1958 · Jan 1, 2000 – Mar 17, 2012 📸

Shared album · Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

I don't remember exactly Where I buy the rear seal probably a Kit from A H 4 but sure I have integrated it from other suppliers
If your oldest plexiglass is in "discrete" conditions one experiment with the Plastic headlight Kit - can be a solution

 

[Michael Oritt]

Fitting the rear window to the NICAL hardtop on my 100--which is the same as Pete Farmer's--was a real bitch and definitely a two-person job.

Because the shell was so flexible I first installed a pair of the vertical bars that are standard to factory tops in order to triangulate and stabilize the shape of the window aperture as without them it was impossible to exert any force against the top when pushing against the seal.

We "crept up" on the final size making very small reductions in the size of the window in order to achieve a good fit, using lots of dish soap and a couple of tools for fitting trim, etc.

This is not a job I look forward to doing again.

 

[Healey Nut]

So here’s my fix for the seal issue .
Im going to glue a length of 1/4” O ring cord into the gap that the seal from Cape leaves and then run two fine beads of silicone to make the seal between the Oring and the seal and the Oring and the Cantrail

 

[Healey Nut]

Well it’s in , pretty pleased with that .
I compared the old window (original I think) to the new one they were very close match . Installed it with just the seals in place no retainer spline . Didn’t like it thought it didn’t fit wasn’t going to work . Gaps at the bottom pointed corners .
Pulled it all out try again , seemed to be better no corner gaps . Roughly installed the splines using the special tool from Cape and some silicone spray as lube (Jig-a-loo) worked a treat . The splines helped to “set the position” of everything and I’m quite happy with it .
I have rough pressed in my O-ring section to fill the gap .
Once my fingers have had a rest from all the pushing and fiddling I will dress all the loose ends of seals and seal the O-ring section into place .
The grand finale will be to remove all my blue tape to view the finished product .
By the time I’m all done it will probably add up to a 5hr job to do the window alone but for a semi retired amateur I’m good with that

 

[Editor_Reid]

That looks like really first-class work - well done!

 

[Healey Nut]

So here we are 99%done .
I did end up removing the window and reinstalling it several times . I decided to improve the fit as the seal was bulging at the top left . I taped the edge with blue tape then black markered the edge where I wanted to remove material off the window . I them used a palm sander and a coarse rasp to remove the window material using my black edge mark as a guide . It took several attempts as you only want to remove small amounts of material as you can’t put it back . I removed maybe a 32” at a time and refitted the window and splines to check fit .
The more I did it the better I got , had it down to a 15min window install by the time I was done .
Once you keep doing it it gets easier as you know how to manipulate the seals and window to tease it into place . Having a plastic non scratching trim tool and the correct spline installation tool is key . The Jig-a-loo works great for lubrication but only a small amount as too much makes a mess and makes things so slippery the window wants to pop out of the seals .
I have siliconed my add on filler O-ring into place and once that has set I will run the two fine sealant lines as a finisher .
Quite pleased with myself about this . Never done a hardtop before .
Just the perimeter seals and windlacing left once I finish the rear silicone finish lines .

 

[60BN7]

Eventually planning on tackling the old seals on our BN7 window. Never done it before and just starting to wrap my head around how to do it. Can anyone share a pic of the trim tool and spline installation tool? Where can I purchase them (located in Ontario, Canada). Thanks.