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1960 Bugeye, left hand drive (USA) needs rigid hydraulic lines for brakes/clutch replaced with flexible lines. One 10' line from Master cylinder to clutch slave cylinder and the other 10' from Master cylinder to 'junction' which delivers fluid to the wheels. Appears I need 2 each 10' long(?). Need a source for these lines and have found new RIGID ones from an autosupply house here in US (Advanced Auto Supply). BMC obviously installed originals before installing engine. Getting rigids bent 'just right' with engine installed is practically impossible. Flexible lines would cut the labor down 90%. Any leads? I know the flair, thread, and connector is a bit of an 'exotic' British design, but in looking for flexis, don't know the name of the required nomenclature. Been too long since I sourced the rigids. Any tips appreciated in advance .... even if just the connector type.
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replace rigid master cylinder lines with flex.
- Thread starter WacoJohn
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Desert Rat
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If you have a local place that makes hydraulic lines they could make them for you.
I just finished re-plumbing my Bugeye with stainless steel hard lines. Mine is a complete and driving car, it was a long but not a hard job.
The engine isn’t really in the way and there is room enough on the passenger to feed the lines to the clutch slave. The line to the rear brakes I installed from under the car. The most involved part was removing the radiator and steering rack to plumb the left front brake.
Remove your old lines and use them as a template to shape the new lines and reinstall. I do recommend removing the battery when removing and installing the lines that run along the firewall since they tend to flop around. You can get pre-bent steel (or stainless steel) from Classic Tubing or buy a nickel/copper kit from Moss or Bugeye Guy. Bugeye Guy also sells the clutch line to the slave separate which I don’t think Moss sells.
I just finished re-plumbing my Bugeye with stainless steel hard lines. Mine is a complete and driving car, it was a long but not a hard job.
The engine isn’t really in the way and there is room enough on the passenger to feed the lines to the clutch slave. The line to the rear brakes I installed from under the car. The most involved part was removing the radiator and steering rack to plumb the left front brake.
Remove your old lines and use them as a template to shape the new lines and reinstall. I do recommend removing the battery when removing and installing the lines that run along the firewall since they tend to flop around. You can get pre-bent steel (or stainless steel) from Classic Tubing or buy a nickel/copper kit from Moss or Bugeye Guy. Bugeye Guy also sells the clutch line to the slave separate which I don’t think Moss sells.
Looks like I might have to fall back to your recommendation. Thank you for the input.Every brake line on my TF are new Copper Nickel, very easy to bend and copy the original lines. Actually, the entire brake system is new with the exception of the brass fittings attached to the rear housing. The Copper Nickel tubing is so easy to work with.
Here is a link to a USA made brake line company:
surrauto.com
UltraBEND® - SUR&R
UltraBEND Tubing Flexible Brake Line Tubing Better Flares, Simple Routing, Bend by Hand, Won't Rust or Corrode Flexible UltraBEND tubing makes routing and installation simple. Easy bending Simple routing No bending tools required Smooth flares create better fitting seals Conforms to SAE...
surrauto.com
That looks VERY promising. THANK YOU!!Here is a link to a USA made brake line company:
UltraBEND® - SUR&R
UltraBEND Tubing Flexible Brake Line Tubing Better Flares, Simple Routing, Bend by Hand, Won't Rust or Corrode Flexible UltraBEND tubing makes routing and installation simple. Easy bending Simple routing No bending tools required Smooth flares create better fitting seals Conforms to SAE...