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TR2/3/3A Repairing a flat tire on TR3

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M

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Just came back from a 95-mile ride and found that my front left tire has a slow leak. I took the wheel off and submerged the tire in water and discovered that the leak is coming from around the tube stem.

I need to replace the tube but have never done it on a wire wheel. I believe that the tire has to be taken off the old fashioned way, with tire irons, because (a) machines for the purpose can damage the wire wheel, and (b) no standard modern shop will touch wire wheels.

Can someone give me some advice here: (a) where to find proper tire irons, (b) how to use them properly, (c) any precautions to take while removing the tire to insert a new tube.

It's been 50 years, at least, since I changed the tube in a tire.... and that was a steel wheel on an American car!

As for the tube. I plan to inflate the new tube three times before inserting it, to get out any wrinkles, etc.; I plan to use a band to protect the bue from the spoke ends; and I plan to put some talk on the tubes as I finally inflate them in the tire.
 
First tool I would reach for is the telephone.

I do my own tires but I have a Harbor Freight tire changer and a place to bolt it securely to the floor. Tackling a tire with just a couple of spoons is doable but hard work.

Around here the Discount Tire chain will do tubes & wires. You also may find a small independent shop willing to take care of it. There is nothing real tricky about it but I think you either need more equipment or fewer years to try it on a summer's day in your own garage.

Harbor Freight sells a 24" tire iron -- for someone who is very determined I think those would suit (in fact I use one as part of my procedure with the tire changer set-up).

I usually work on the backside of the tire to avoid scratching the paint/chrome.

You will only be undoing one side of the tire though I expect you'll need to break the bead to get started. You'll need something to fish the valve stem of the replacement tube through the hole -- I made a gadget out of an old valve cap and a length of cord -- your local auot parts place may sell a tool for yanking tubeless stems into place that would also work for this.

I use lots of powder before the tube goes in -- baby powder is fine if you read the label -- some is made from corn starch (no) and some from talc (yes).

I remove the valve core so those initial inflations can go up & down quickly to settle the tube into position, then a final inflation with the core in place.

I didn't look but there are probably some YouTube videos on changing a tire with just the irons/spoons.

But really, I would look into having a shop help with this.

BTW -- wherever the leak is I would expect it to look like it is at the valve stem since that is where air that gets between the tube and the tire will try to escape when the tire is re-inflated. You might try inflating the tire to a high (but reasonable/safe) pressure and seeing if the pressure drops over night. Also check to be sure the valve core is well tightened in the stem. You want to eliminate the 'simple somethings' before you tackle a tube replacement.
 
Geoge,

Many thanks for all the good guidance and advice. The more I think about it, the more I think I should take the car to a shop that can do this work. There is an outfit about 50 miles north of here that works on wire wheels. It's where I had my new Vedrestein tires balanced and trued about three years ago. They won't have the proper tube, but I can supply it. In fact, since the tubes in my new tires were taken out of the old tires (Cooper) that I had replaced, I may "sweeten" the deal by asking the shop to replace the tubes in all four tires (new bands, new tubes).

My Vedrestein tires are Sprint + S80 Radial Steel Tubeless, 165 R15 86S tires. Looking at the Moss Motors tires chart, it appears that I should order part # 452-755 Inner Tube 155/165 x 15. There are two 15s shown on the list , and the one I have indicated is the smaller one. Moss says "The smaller sizes are designed for use with radial tires and have rubber covered valve stems. (Can be used with bias ply tires)." Am I correct in selecting 155/165 x 15? Just want to be sure.

Many thanks.
 
Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro, NC is probably the best shop around your area. I would call them before fooling around yourself. Tire work is dangerous.
 
Most tire shops these days can safely change tires on wire wheels; as the same equipment is used for "mag" wheels. It grabs the wheel by the rim, instead of the center. Even my local Wally-mart has them.

I have actually horsed new tubes into place without removing the tire, but it's a PITA and a significant risk of damaging the new tube. Basically you break the bead on one side, and work the tube between the tire and wheel.
 
pdplott and Randall,

Thanks for the advice. Hendrix Wire Wheel is a too far for me to go for one tire. I live in a very small town, but there is a tire dealer/shop, and I will ask them if they can handle wire wheels.

I would like to do the work myself -- new band, new tube, talc, etc., etc., -- because I don't know if ordinary shops would be as careful ans I, but the job IS difficult and there is a risk of damaging the new tube. I'll probably have to compromise on this one.
 
If I had a dollar for every flat I've fixed. Its not hard to do. I'm 60 and I can fix a flat or change out a tire on a wire wheel in about 15 minutes. I have a home made bead breaker and use two 24" screwdrivers. Also a rubber mallet when putting the tire back on.

Marv
 
Any Les Shwab tire will do it
 
Just want to confirm that the 155/165 15 tube is the correct for my radial 15.


Marv:

I just called a friend nearby who has changed many tires on his cars. He said he can do it for me... just bring him the car. I'll take notes.

Many thanks.
 
Marv,

Any chance you could post a photo of your home made bead breaker?
 
Ed
Its mounted to the facing on the garage door at my shop. I'll try to remember to get a picture of it and try to post it here. Tube size is good.

Marv
 
Marv,

Thanks. I'll be out of town for a week starting tomorrow morning, so there is no hurry on the picture.
 
Finally got around to repairing my flat tire. After all was said and done, the job was surprisingly simple. It only took about 15-20 minutes. For those who would want to do it themselves, here are the steps I followed:

1. Mark the position of the tire on the rim with a chalk line (so that when you reposition the tire on the rim, you won't completely undo the effect of any balance weights).

2. Remove the valve using a valve tool and let all the air out of the tire.

3. SPECIAL REQUIREMENT: Use a special device to break the bead on both sides of the tire. I borrowed one from a friend.

4. Pry up one side of the tire above the rim.

5. Remove the old tube.

6. Put talc (Baby Powder) on the uninflated new tube.

7. Insert the uninflated tube into the tire. Make sure the valve stem comes through the hole in the rim. Put the valve tool on the stem to avoid accidentally having the stem pull back through the hole and into the tire.

8. Make certain the tube is positioned correctly with the stem through the hole.

9. Brush soapy water around the rims of the tire, both sides.

10. Reposition into the wheel the rim of the tire that was pried up. Use tire irons. Leave the valve tool on the stem and reposition the tire using the chalk line.

11. Remove the valve tool, replace the valve, tighten the valve, hold stem, inflate the tube.

12. Remove the valve carefully (keep it from flying out of the stem) and deflate the tire.

13. Replace the valve and reinflate the tire.

14. Finished.
 
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