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repair rust holes

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hondo402000

hondo402000

Darth Vader
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Ok since I have removed the paint on the front center section on my TR6, mainly because there was a small rust hole and have found about 4 more about the size of a dime, any recommendation on how to repair them. I guess my choises are

sand the back side, por 15 then fiberglass mat on the back side and fill with body filler on the top side

braze repair the areas with an oxy acet and plate material
I have a torch and has anyone done this with any success, I have silver solder and brass brazing rods, I know I would have to practice on some metal to see if I am capable without warping anything

Maybe even just trying to fill in with lead. I guess I can get some shotgun shells melt the shot make some kind of backing and fill in the holes

mig repair( dont have one)

the first will be easy but will the fiberglass mat stay permantly adhered to the por 15
 
Best would be to cut out the bad and patch-weld in new. An option for someone without the welding skills or $ would be to purchase some panel adhesive (Eastwood makes some that does not require a special gun $19.00) and then patch over, no worries about heat warp and fast.

Paul
 
:iagree: Get some fresh metal in there. If I had known more about panel adhesives as I do now, I most likely would have used that instead of MIG welding everything during my restoration. Most of the time the MIG welding worked out fine (and I never welded before this project), but I did have some warping and oil canning on several large, flat panels that I had to wind up shrinking to get things in order again.

Any of those procedures you mentioned are, in the long run, just an inadequate compromise.

Edit: On the use of lead, just melting down any pieces of lead laying around is not right for body work. I used lead during my resto in a lot of areas (another skill I learned on this job). There is a correct ratio of tin to lead (30-70) that is ideal for body work. The 30-70 stuff has has a big span of temperature where the lead is soft like peanut butter, which makes it easier to use. Any other mixtures and the lead is either running on the floor or is solid, because the "plastic" range is too narrow.
 
If you want to go the lead route for filler instead of bondo, get the right stuff from eastwood or someone else. You need the tinning compound and other goodies. The new structural adhesive is a permanent fix but you will see the metal patch on the back side, you need overlap for the adhesive.
R
 
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