• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Removing the J type unit from the gear box

Share this page

I'll be driving by Harbor Freight store today so I'll stop to see if they have one of those gear pullers. The article you sent does say the gears on the counter shaft will fall to the bottom of the case. But the article also verified that the rear bearing can be pulled out with a puller from behind. I'll post some pics once I get this apart and you'll be amazed how beat up this is inside. So real hack got ahold of this tranny. I'm looking at a total rebuild.
 
I've always pressed the main shaft through the opening in the front of the case. If you were able to get the input shaft out, then it sounds like your cluster gear has dropped enough.
 
That is what Im going to do today. Couldn't find a bearing puller large enough to grab the rear bearing. Even tried Auto Z with their tool loaner program. I'll post a pic of how and if the pressing process works as I tried to explain earlier. It was difficult to get the input out mainly because of the bearings being loose Im sure. Just don't want to start banging on the shaft and start chipping teeth. This is going to be an expensive rebuild without adding anything extra to the bill.
 
As I mentioned earlier I thoroughly didn't think it thru. The synchro hub was in the way of the cir clip and would not let the main shaft come down all the way. Once I removed the hub it then it pushed through fine. Haven't disassembled the cluster yet. A little nervous about that. But surprisingly 1st gear fell right off the shaft and the bushing too. I would have thought that the bushing would have been pressed in tight enough so that only the bushing would be spinning on the main shaft. Maybe it wore out or it was loose to start with. I can wiggle the other gears on the shaft too.

Got a call from a guy at a bone yard that I stopped at last summer looking for a part for my other car and he had a TR4 tranny there that had been sitting outside for 20 years. Opened the case and it was rusty inside and didn't think it had much use. To make a longer story short I got it for $30 Saturday. Emptied and cleaned everything out and is now soaking in Evapo Rust. Never tried it before. Suppose to safely clean off rust and not hurt non ferrous metals, paint, all plastics and rubber. It's been 17 hours and it is coming off. The spacers on the sleeves on the shifter rods were rusted solid and are now loose. Wasn't planning on it but now hopping to get some parts out of this. Second pic.
 

Attachments

  • press.jpg
    press.jpg
    46.7 KB · Views: 86
  • soak.jpg
    soak.jpg
    73.7 KB · Views: 85
Yeah, the constant gear bushings are supposed to float between the gear and shaft. That's why you check both the end float of the gear on the bushing, and the end float of the bushing on the shaft.
 
Back
Top