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Lynn Kirkpatrick
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Removing Road Tar
- Thread starter Gray_Cat
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PC
Obi Wan
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Autofocus cameras can get confused when you’re shooting paint defects. You can trick the camera into focusing on the surface by putting something in the frame, on the surface that it can focus on.
A coin usually works well, as does a fingertip.
We can ignore the wax you used for the moment. Wax is for leaving something behind, not removing anything.
What “machine buffing compound” did you use? There are dozens of them and they’re all different.
How did you work the SwirlX and compound? What technique did you use? How many passes? How much time? How much pressure? Did you fold the towel? How many towel layers were between your hand and the paint?
What sort of weave does the towel have? Terry? Waffle? Satin? Shag? Smooth?
pc.
A coin usually works well, as does a fingertip.
We can ignore the wax you used for the moment. Wax is for leaving something behind, not removing anything.
What “machine buffing compound” did you use? There are dozens of them and they’re all different.
How did you work the SwirlX and compound? What technique did you use? How many passes? How much time? How much pressure? Did you fold the towel? How many towel layers were between your hand and the paint?
What sort of weave does the towel have? Terry? Waffle? Satin? Shag? Smooth?
pc.
Lynn Kirkpatrick
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
PC
The machine compound is some that I have in an unmarked container, so I don't know the brand
The micro fiber towels are a cut pile, not looped or waffle. I probably had 1-2 layers under my finger tip.
I probably used the SwirlX for 2-3 minutes, then rinsed it with water. Then the buffing compound for 2-3 minutes.
This is all vague because it was last summer.
Any ideas?
Lynn
The machine compound is some that I have in an unmarked container, so I don't know the brand
The micro fiber towels are a cut pile, not looped or waffle. I probably had 1-2 layers under my finger tip.
I probably used the SwirlX for 2-3 minutes, then rinsed it with water. Then the buffing compound for 2-3 minutes.
This is all vague because it was last summer.
Any ideas?
Lynn
PC
Obi Wan
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<span style="font-weight: bold">elrey</span>, I was referring to the Eagle 1 Nanowax that Lynn had mentioned.
There are waxes, called <span style="font-style: italic">cleaner waxes</span>, that some ability to remove defects. They’re a combination of wax and fine polish/compound. Eagle 1 Nanowax isn’t that kind of wax.
But since you ask, the whole colored wax thing is silliness. The finish is clear over a basecoat. So the color of the surface is <span style="font-style: italic">clear</span>. And wax goes on so microscopically thin it’s not really going to tint anything.
A wax can have some ability to fill in very fine scratches ever so slightly and make them less visible. It’s called “glazing.” but it’s only temporary and only works on very fine depressions. It has nothing to do with color, it’s about reflectivity.
You don’t need wax to glaze. There are products that are purely glazes like Meguiar’s Show Car Glaze and 3M’s Imperial Hand Glaze. (Anybody remember Liquid Ebony?)
To remove surface defects you have to grind them away with some sort of abrasive product. I think Lynn was on the right track and just needs to dial in the combination of product and technique a bit.
pc.
There are waxes, called <span style="font-style: italic">cleaner waxes</span>, that some ability to remove defects. They’re a combination of wax and fine polish/compound. Eagle 1 Nanowax isn’t that kind of wax.
But since you ask, the whole colored wax thing is silliness. The finish is clear over a basecoat. So the color of the surface is <span style="font-style: italic">clear</span>. And wax goes on so microscopically thin it’s not really going to tint anything.
A wax can have some ability to fill in very fine scratches ever so slightly and make them less visible. It’s called “glazing.” but it’s only temporary and only works on very fine depressions. It has nothing to do with color, it’s about reflectivity.
You don’t need wax to glaze. There are products that are purely glazes like Meguiar’s Show Car Glaze and 3M’s Imperial Hand Glaze. (Anybody remember Liquid Ebony?)
To remove surface defects you have to grind them away with some sort of abrasive product. I think Lynn was on the right track and just needs to dial in the combination of product and technique a bit.
pc.
PC
Obi Wan
Offline
Lynn,
When you used the SwirlX, what was the result? Did it reduce the look of the damage or just make it shiny?
Same with the compound, what did it do? Was the damage pattern less visible? Was it shinier? Hazier? Did the compound actually remove the pattern and then leave a "cloud?" Was it better? Worse?
pc.
When you used the SwirlX, what was the result? Did it reduce the look of the damage or just make it shiny?
Same with the compound, what did it do? Was the damage pattern less visible? Was it shinier? Hazier? Did the compound actually remove the pattern and then leave a "cloud?" Was it better? Worse?
pc.
Lynn Kirkpatrick
Jedi Hopeful
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pc
Trusting my memory, I think the swirlx helped the most. It reduced the sharpness of the spot, if that makes sense. Next I tried the rubbing compound and I don't think it helped much.
Either way, one of them helped. I'm just wondering if there is something better, or if I just need to use more elbow grease?
After it happened I read a little on the net about this, and there was a diagram and explanation that sometimes the chemicals penetrate into the clearcoat layer. If that's true I guess I may have to polish down some of the layer. I just want to make sure I don't make anything worse.
Thx
Trusting my memory, I think the swirlx helped the most. It reduced the sharpness of the spot, if that makes sense. Next I tried the rubbing compound and I don't think it helped much.
Either way, one of them helped. I'm just wondering if there is something better, or if I just need to use more elbow grease?
After it happened I read a little on the net about this, and there was a diagram and explanation that sometimes the chemicals penetrate into the clearcoat layer. If that's true I guess I may have to polish down some of the layer. I just want to make sure I don't make anything worse.
Thx
PC
Obi Wan
Offline
It’s true, bird bombs can sometimes disrupt the film too deeply to repair. In those cases you just attack it however gently or aggressively you’re willing to try and live with the results.
Even in the worst cases I’ve seen, you could still reduce the appearance significantly, usually to the point where it was sort of an optical distortion with a few microscopic pits rather than a big cloudy patch.
But that’s been severe cases. More often than not, you could remove them either completely or to where nobody who wasn’t looking for it could see it.
The SwirlX you used is a really mild product. It’s meant for pulling out very fine scratches and swirls. You could keep going the way you were for a very, <span style="font-style: italic">very</span> long time without any fear of overdoing it. So if it was making noticeable progress maybe you do just need more elbow grease.
You’ll also get a bit more cut if you switch from microfiber to 100% cotton terrycloth.
If you want to step up to more powerful chemicals but still keep in the goof-proof gentle zone you could try Meguiar’s ScratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Compound, either by hand or DA buffer.
pc.
Even in the worst cases I’ve seen, you could still reduce the appearance significantly, usually to the point where it was sort of an optical distortion with a few microscopic pits rather than a big cloudy patch.
But that’s been severe cases. More often than not, you could remove them either completely or to where nobody who wasn’t looking for it could see it.
The SwirlX you used is a really mild product. It’s meant for pulling out very fine scratches and swirls. You could keep going the way you were for a very, <span style="font-style: italic">very</span> long time without any fear of overdoing it. So if it was making noticeable progress maybe you do just need more elbow grease.
You’ll also get a bit more cut if you switch from microfiber to 100% cotton terrycloth.
If you want to step up to more powerful chemicals but still keep in the goof-proof gentle zone you could try Meguiar’s ScratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Compound, either by hand or DA buffer.
pc.
Lynn Kirkpatrick
Jedi Hopeful
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I'm going to try the scratch X. I was also told to try wet sanding 2000 grit paper and then buff. The bird bombs result in areas of small pits that need to be buffed out.
I'll see what happens. Thanks for all of the advice.
I'll see what happens. Thanks for all of the advice.
PC
Obi Wan
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Based on the above concept, this:Lynn Kirkpatrick said:
Lynn Kirkpatrick said:
is not a good idea.
If detailing was cooking, the SwirlX would be a fork and the ScratchX a butter knife. If you found your steak was a little tough, your first response probably wouldn't be to reach for a chainsaw (#2000 sandpaper). It'll work, but there are couple in between steps worth considering first.
pc.