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Remove Crank Nut

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I can see that it is a pretty tight area, I am a little unclear at this point on how I can get the wrench in.
I am not too concerned with damaging the nut, but I want to be careful with the crank. Personally, at this point I would cut the nut off if I could guarantee that I would not damage the crank or pulley.
I am hoping some gentle heating and more PB Blaster will do the trick.
Thanks for the advice.
 
Success! The nut spun off with 1/2" 700 ft/lb impact wrench set at mid torque range. 30 Gal compressor was set at 130 psi and kept the impact wrench on nut for about 30 to 45 seconds before the nut loosened. Prior to this I attempted the dead-blow hammer to combination wrench approah with an engine strap fabricated to stop rotation. But nut did not budge.

BG 62 AH - Please consider using an impact wrench or the newer electric impacts. Look for one with good adjustable torque 700 or 800. When you purchased the combination wrench did you also buy an 1 11/16 in. impact socket? Once the nut is off a 4 to 5 inch puller is needed for pully removal. I wouldn't trust an open flame in a household garage setting. If too frustrated then perhaps hire a mobile mechanic to service the job on site. And good luck.

Gonzo
 
gonzo said:
Success! The nut spun off with 1/2" 700 ft/lb impact wrench set at mid torque range. 30 Gal compressor was set at 130 psi and kept the impact wrench on nut for about 30 to 45 seconds before the nut loosened. Prior to this I attempted the dead-blow hammer to combination wrench approah with an engine strap fabricated to stop rotation. But nut did not budge.

BG 62 AH - Please consider using an impact wrench or the newer electric impacts. Look for one with good adjustable torque 700 or 800. When you purchased the combination wrench did you also buy an 1 11/16 in. impact socket? Once the nut is off a 4 to 5 inch puller is needed for pully removal. I wouldn't trust an open flame in a household garage setting. If too frustrated then perhaps hire a mobile mechanic to service the job on site. And good luck.

Gonzo
Click to expand...
Was there a washer behind the nut?
 
Yes, a locktab washer was behind the nut and will be replaced with a new on installation. Any suggestions on gasket sealant for the timing cover? Trying to avoid the RTVs silicon-based ones...


GONZO
 
gonzo said:
Yes, a locktab washer was behind the nut and will be replaced with a new on installation. Any suggestions on gasket sealant for the timing cover? Trying to avoid the RTVs silicon-based ones...


GONZO
Click to expand...

I did mine a few years ago with Hylomar. Works great. Don't forget to lube the seal. The screws and oval washers around the periphery of the housing came loose after a couple of years, causing a leak. Snugging them up periodically is indicated. Tighten these screws after the pulley is installed so the seal will self-center.
 
gonzo said:
Yes, a locktab washer was behind the nut and will be replaced with a new on installation. Any suggestions on gasket sealant for the timing cover? Trying to avoid the RTVs silicon-based ones...
GONZO
Click to expand...

Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket applied to a paper gasket works well; it dries to a glaze and seals and also makes the gasket easy to remove later. IIRC--did this job about a year ago--the cover bolts, and possibly the washers, are different at different locations around the periphery of the gasket.
 
Gonzo, If you do not mind me asking, did you have an issue stabling the engine with the motor mounts undone, or any issue with the engine spinning. I can get an impact wrench on the nut, but I need to stop the engine from turning. I need to design some type of bracket to hold everything in place when the wrench starts turning the nut and spinning the engine. Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks for your help,

Bill
 
Success! The nut spun off with 1/2" 700 ft/lb impact wrench

YEP get em every time--:glee:
 
BG 62AH said:
Gonzo, If you do not mind me asking, did you have an issue stabling the engine with the motor mounts undone, or any issue with the engine spinning. I can get an impact wrench on the nut, but I need to stop the engine from turning. I need to design some type of bracket to hold everything in place when the wrench starts turning the nut and spinning the engine. Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks for your help,

Bill
Click to expand...

With an impact wrench, there should be no need to stop engine from spinning. The short sharp blows from the impact do not cause the engine to spin much, if at all.
 
BG 62AH, impact wrench was accessed from below engine compartment. It's easier to maneuver around suspension, crossbar and radiator shroud components. As Blueskies indicated, engine does not turn during this operation.


Let us know when the nut spins off! GONZO
 
Thank you guys , I hope to give it another try this weekend. I can guarantee that this nut is coming off one way or another. I appreciate all the help.
 
Gentlemen, I would like to thank you all for you help and advice. I am happy to report that the nut has finally been liberated. In the end, I did have to lock the pulley from rotating, use some heat on the nut, and did need an 1/2 drive impact wrench.

I appreciate the help!!!
 
In the end, I did need an 1/2 drive impact wrench.---:applause:-------Bill
 
Excellent news Bill! With a little more work and ingenuity you'll have it running and on the road again very soon. Why do these projects always seem to take twice longer than origionally budgeted for? Reason #1 why there's no clock installed in my garage!

GONZO:eek:
 
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