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TR2/3/3A removal of dog bolt for crank start tr-3
- Thread starter captainde
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bgbassplyr
Darth Vader
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Screwdriver? yes.
Might also try large pipe wrench on the extension while using socket on a large breaker bar on the bolt. A little WD40 or equivilent rust breaker where the bolt interfaces with the extension may aid in the process. This procedeure worked for me, at least. Hope it does for you.
Jim
Might also try large pipe wrench on the extension while using socket on a large breaker bar on the bolt. A little WD40 or equivilent rust breaker where the bolt interfaces with the extension may aid in the process. This procedeure worked for me, at least. Hope it does for you.
Jim
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Bigger impact wrench!
Yeah, big screwdriver into the flywheel teeth should work too. Put a bolt into one of the holes and lever against that.
Or, if it's still in the car, position the breaker bar so it will hit the floor and crank the engine with the starter.
Yeah, big screwdriver into the flywheel teeth should work too. Put a bolt into one of the holes and lever against that.
Or, if it's still in the car, position the breaker bar so it will hit the floor and crank the engine with the starter.
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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I have heard of people setting the engine at, or near, top dead center where the piston is near the top, then they remove a spark plug and stuff rope into the spark plug hole to fill the space in the combustion chamber above the piston. They make sure they leave one end of the rope out where they can pull it all out when the job is done.
Usually, they will do this to remove (separate and lift off the head), but it might also work to remove that big bolt on the front of the engine.
I usually have my engine out and my oil pan off when I do mine and I jam a huge piece of wood between the throw of the crankshaft and the inside of the block to prevent the crankshaft from turning while I loosen and remove that huge bolt on the front end.
Usually, they will do this to remove (separate and lift off the head), but it might also work to remove that big bolt on the front of the engine.
I usually have my engine out and my oil pan off when I do mine and I jam a huge piece of wood between the throw of the crankshaft and the inside of the block to prevent the crankshaft from turning while I loosen and remove that huge bolt on the front end.
Tinkerman
Darth Vader
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Like Don, I did mine after the engine was out of the car and the oil pan off. More room for auxilliary help such as 2X4's and etc. I also used Kroil because I found it better than WD 40 for rust breaking applications. I used a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar with a pipe extension on it. Go easy though so you don't break the bolt. Did that once on a cam nut on a 1927 LaSalle. Course afterwards I found out it was a left hand thread, duhhh.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Tinkerman
Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Tinkerman
I too did mine out of the car an on a stand. Given the effrt it took I would be hesitant to use a screw drive in the starter (but ca me chicken).
I used an impact wrench but it took a LOT of time. I think it was three or four sessions of several minutes before the big bolt turned. I ust went at it with the impt wrench ever time I walked by until it finally let lose. Set he wrench at full and the cmpressor at the maxthe wrench will handle and keep at it.
I used an impact wrench but it took a LOT of time. I think it was three or four sessions of several minutes before the big bolt turned. I ust went at it with the impt wrench ever time I walked by until it finally let lose. Set he wrench at full and the cmpressor at the maxthe wrench will handle and keep at it.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Not to belabor the point, but someone just asked me off-list ... there is a lot of variation in how much torque different impact wrenches will deliver. My first wrench (cheap import) worked just fine for lugnuts on a Triumph, but wouldn't begin to budge the lug nuts on my motorhome. Then I bought a "high torque" model (still 1/2" drive, still cheap import) that would handle the motorhome lugnuts. But it still won't deliver anywhere near the punch that a buddy's IR gun will (as he gleefully demonstrated).
It also makes a big difference how rigid the coupling between the gun and the nut is. Even an "impact" extension will reduce effective torque; as will using a standard socket instead of the thick impact variety.
It also makes a big difference how rigid the coupling between the gun and the nut is. Even an "impact" extension will reduce effective torque; as will using a standard socket instead of the thick impact variety.
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I wrestled with mine all night long last fall. I tried an impact wrench from Harbor Freight and got absolutely nowhere. I doubt it's a quality tool.
I tried several other techniques, and finally just found a socket the right size, used a heat gun to warm up the dog bolt, got my biggest breaker bar, stopped the engine from turning by placing a short wooden 2x4 between the block and one of the crankshaft shoulders--my oil pan obviously was off, and pulled that bar until my nose started to bleed.
I almost gave up, but suddenly the bolt came loose and I went to bed at 2:00 am.
I didn't like that exercise. Then I heard somewhere you have to torque it back to 100 foot lbs. My manual didn't answer that question, but I wonder still if it was correct.
Randall, does your manual give the correct torque?
I tried several other techniques, and finally just found a socket the right size, used a heat gun to warm up the dog bolt, got my biggest breaker bar, stopped the engine from turning by placing a short wooden 2x4 between the block and one of the crankshaft shoulders--my oil pan obviously was off, and pulled that bar until my nose started to bleed.
I almost gave up, but suddenly the bolt came loose and I went to bed at 2:00 am.
I didn't like that exercise. Then I heard somewhere you have to torque it back to 100 foot lbs. My manual didn't answer that question, but I wonder still if it was correct.
Randall, does your manual give the correct torque?
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I don't recall ever seeing an 'official' torque for that bolt. However, the 'standard' torque for a 5/8-18 bolt (grade 3) is 140 ftlb so that's (roughly) what I use. It needs to be good and tight, otherwise the hub can work back and forth just a tiny bit every time the engine fires, and eventually tear things up. BTDTKentvillehound said:
bgbassplyr
Darth Vader
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Hooray!